I am trying to get the rear door gaps adjusted by adding shims to the no. 4 body mounts. What is the maximum number of shims added during factory assembly?
Thank you for your assistance.
Randy
Thank you for your assistance.
Randy
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Re: C2 body shims
There is no maximum number on any Corvette you just move around the body shims -
Re: C2 body shims
There is no maximum number on any Corvette you just move around the body shimsComment
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Re: C2 body shims
Randy,
I hope this will help. Tim
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Re: C2 body shims
Randy,
I hope this will help. Tim
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Re: C2 body shims
Randy,
I have tried without success to adjust door gaps by adjusting shims. I eagerly stand to be corrected but, I would not do it. For one thing, it could crack the body. If you need to adjust your bird cage on the frame, you need to start from scratch. Consider the bird cage as perfectly square (whether it is or isn't). I put the frame on jack stands on a very level floor. I measure the body of the car (bird cage bottom rails) in relationship to the bottom of the frame rails. There should be no tension on the body/bird cage when you go to tighten the body bolts. Now, there is some slight sag on the front of the car so I sort of lift it up a tad by hand. If you have a door gap issue, then play with the hinges and get it as nice as you can. After that, if it isn't nice enough for your taste, you will need to do body work. Factory door gaps were not pretty. JMHO as usual, TerryComment
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Re: C2 body shims
Randy,
I have tried without success to adjust door gaps by adjusting shims. I eagerly stand to be corrected but, I would not do it. For one thing, it could crack the body. If you need to adjust your bird cage on the frame, you need to start from scratch. Consider the bird cage as perfectly square (whether it is or isn't). I put the frame on jack stands on a very level floor. I measure the body of the car (bird cage bottom rails) in relationship to the bottom of the frame rails. There should be no tension on the body/bird cage when you go to tighten the body bolts. Now, there is some slight sag on the front of the car so I sort of lift it up a tad by hand. If you have a door gap issue, then play with the hinges and get it as nice as you can. After that, if it isn't nice enough for your taste, you will need to do body work. Factory door gaps were not pretty. JMHO as usual, TerryComment
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# 1 is the pivot point on a conv. for door gap
randy--if it's a conv. #4 mount shims will get the gap at the door latch adjusted just fine---i've yet to do a coupe which i feel terry would be correct in his suggestion---word of caution leave #3 & #2 very loose and #1 loose---if you put too many shims at #4 bumper brackets will not align---cure for this is more shims at the core support---you are using #1 as the pivot point to cure door gap via shims at the #4 or core support---once you are happy put shims in # 2 & 3 for a snug fit---torque the bolts and let sit for a couple days with doors open---check door fit---if your happy continue on---god luck,philComment
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# 1 is the pivot point on a conv. for door gap
randy--if it's a conv. #4 mount shims will get the gap at the door latch adjusted just fine---i've yet to do a coupe which i feel terry would be correct in his suggestion---word of caution leave #3 & #2 very loose and #1 loose---if you put too many shims at #4 bumper brackets will not align---cure for this is more shims at the core support---you are using #1 as the pivot point to cure door gap via shims at the #4 or core support---once you are happy put shims in # 2 & 3 for a snug fit---torque the bolts and let sit for a couple days with doors open---check door fit---if your happy continue on---god luck,philComment
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Re: # 1 is the pivot point on a conv. for door gap
Sorry to not mention that I am working with a convertible. Thank you for the info. I get the impression that I should not worry about retaining the original count of shims at each mount but rather I should start over.
All the gaps are nice except the rear door gaps. These are too wide on the top. The original shim count on the right rear mount is four, on the left rear the count was zero. I added four shims on each side and the gaps are better but still too wide on top. A that point I decided to ask for some opinions. I will start over leaving the bolts on all mounts loose and ignoring the original shim count.
Thanks to all for your replies.
RandyComment
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Re: # 1 is the pivot point on a conv. for door gap
Sorry to not mention that I am working with a convertible. Thank you for the info. I get the impression that I should not worry about retaining the original count of shims at each mount but rather I should start over.
All the gaps are nice except the rear door gaps. These are too wide on the top. The original shim count on the right rear mount is four, on the left rear the count was zero. I added four shims on each side and the gaps are better but still too wide on top. A that point I decided to ask for some opinions. I will start over leaving the bolts on all mounts loose and ignoring the original shim count.
Thanks to all for your replies.
RandyComment
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Re: # 1 is the pivot point on a conv. for door gap
randy,--- as you have noticed the # 1 mounts are a solid mount---could be wrong but i think they establish the "roll" as viewed from the front of the car---i measure at # 1 mount a vertical diminsion in relationship to the bird cage frame to establish body roll correction---note double check frame to body lines as the bird cage could have been "glued" to the body with diminsional errors---once the # 1 shim correction is what "you" like proceed with # 4 and core support to correct "rear" door latch door gap issues---because of frame torisional twist and the cars past it is more than likley you will need more shims at # 4 right rear than left rear---once again torque the bolts with the doors open let set a couple days then check the fit---yes the factory had ZERO time for this is why the factory gaps were all over the map fit wise---i'm glad you brought this up as it refreshed my memory as i will be setting a conv. body on after the holidays---goood luck philComment
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Re: # 1 is the pivot point on a conv. for door gap
randy,--- as you have noticed the # 1 mounts are a solid mount---could be wrong but i think they establish the "roll" as viewed from the front of the car---i measure at # 1 mount a vertical diminsion in relationship to the bird cage frame to establish body roll correction---note double check frame to body lines as the bird cage could have been "glued" to the body with diminsional errors---once the # 1 shim correction is what "you" like proceed with # 4 and core support to correct "rear" door latch door gap issues---because of frame torisional twist and the cars past it is more than likley you will need more shims at # 4 right rear than left rear---once again torque the bolts with the doors open let set a couple days then check the fit---yes the factory had ZERO time for this is why the factory gaps were all over the map fit wise---i'm glad you brought this up as it refreshed my memory as i will be setting a conv. body on after the holidays---goood luck philComment
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Re: # 1 is the pivot point on a conv. for door gap
Taking away shims at the rear lock pillar and adding to the rear mount will close the upper door gaps. On a convertible adding shims to the first mount at the cowl or removing shims from the second mount will lower the rear of the door.
After forty years, there is probably no relationship to the original numbers.Comment
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Re: # 1 is the pivot point on a conv. for door gap
Taking away shims at the rear lock pillar and adding to the rear mount will close the upper door gaps. On a convertible adding shims to the first mount at the cowl or removing shims from the second mount will lower the rear of the door.
After forty years, there is probably no relationship to the original numbers.Comment
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