To all who have helped on trying to figure out the numbers on this 70 corvette I have posted the pictures of the trim tag and pad on the engine. They are on flickr.com and then search horsepowerhaven(all one word) Be sure to leave out the e of flickr. There is 6 pictures. Thanks for all of your help. Kris
70 Corvette matching numbers? Pictures posted
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Re: 70 Corvette matching numbers? Pictures posted
Kris-----
The numbers on the block look legit to me. So, it appears what we have here is a 1970 VIN code built about June, 1970 with a 1971 engine that wasn't even cast until May, 1971 (based on your previous info regarding the block cast date). On top of that, we have a car that otherwise appears to be a 1971. I have never seen anything like it and I don't have any idea how it could have occurred.In Appreciation of John Hinckley- Top
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Addendum
One other thing to keep in mind: even at the time that this car was produced, GM could not legally identify a car manufactured in 1971 as a 1970 model. Yet, this car is VIN-identified as a 1970 model, even though everything else seems to say it's a 1971 model. It's just very difficult for me to conclude that this was a factory mistake. They do make mistakes but I've never known them to make a mistake like this.In Appreciation of John Hinckley- Top
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Re: 70 Corvette matching numbers? Pictures posted
Well, Kris, it's no doubt a fine Corvette, and for many potential buyers, these inconsistencies won't make any difference to them.
As to how it happened, it's probably academic...without some kind of documentation of how the engine change was done by GM on a 70 Corvette nearly a year later, you'll never have the explanation. Even with such documentation, the car would still receive healthy judging deducts for a non-original engine in my opinion. For most NCRS members or other well informed buyers, these discrepancies would also affect the car's value.
Under some scenario where the car remained in GM's control and not sold/titled for almost a year, and then received a 71 engine and trim plate, would not necessarily make the car "original"...presumably the body was built in June 70 and received a 70 engine. If there was a problem with the "original" engine, it would have been repaired or replaced and the car shipped long before the 70 MY was finished. If it was owned by a high level GM employee, and he was able to swing an "official" engine replacement, it's still a non-original engine regardless of who did the replacement.
I'm not 100% confident of the pad, but Al Grenning would have to be the arbiter on this one. Maybe he could explain the pad surface finish, and the overlapping of the stamps as being common...I haven't seen that before; it looks strange, but I've really only seen a few pads. In my opinion, the fact that no broach marks are visible is inconclusive since mine is original and has a smooth pad. The pictures are not sharp enough for me to tell much about the surface finish, but it doesn't appear smooth...maybe it's just surface rust.- Top
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Question for the pad Gurus
Is it normal for the VIN derivative and the build information stamps to overlap? In my limited experience, they are usually separated by a definite space. I am not complaining about the stamp, font, or dates. I just want to know if this is a normal appearing stamping setup and if others have seen it before?
Thank you,
Gary- Top
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last "7" on VIN derivative seems too far
It appears to have a comparatively large gap from previous digit, on block stamp.
Is there an emission label on the firewall? I think that the 2 engines and years might show a different 2-digit code on that label.
Steve- Top
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Emission Label should clarify
Kris,
The emission label on the firewall should be a path to untangling this, as it is on the body.
Based on Geoffrey's excellent catalog, it appears that if the body is from a '70 300 HP car, the tag should have the 2-digit code = DO or CR.
If the body is from a '71 270 HP car, to match the engine stamp, the code should be AR.
If the emission label is missing, lends credence to the "built car" theory.
Steve- Top
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Re: Emission Label should clarify
It was hard to tell...it looked like the inside vertical edge was standing off just slightly and not flat against the body like I would expect, but that may mean nothing. I couldn't see the bottom rivet very clearly...was the mandrel hole filled with the mandrel stub or does it just appear to be filled with something?- Top
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Re: Emission Label should clarify
Kris------
Yes, the emissions label should provide additional information if it appears to be original AND it's still there.
As far as the trim tag goes, the tag, itself, looks original to me. The rivets are the type of rivets that were used. However, at least one of them looks to be "loose". It may not be, though; that's just how it appears. I doubt that any "loose" rivets would have left the factory that way. Even if they're tight and as they should be it doesn't necessarily mean that the tag has never been off the car. These rivets are very easy to obtain (just about any hardware store; in fact, I just bought some yesterday for another purpose).
One thing, though, that I did notice. It appears to me that there is a little body color paint on the very edges of the tag. That's NOT factory. So, the car has been painted and the tag masked off (mostly, anyway).In Appreciation of John Hinckley- Top
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Re: Emission Label should clarify
I just checked the emission label and it is still there but you can't read anything between wear and some overspray from the repaint. I knew the car has been repainted(looks to be a darker green than original) but the trim tag is very snug on the panel, that is why it looks original to me. I did notice the tag on top of the fan shroud(again if original) has what I assume to be a date of late 69. This is the tag that says car comes from the factory protected to -20 degrees.- Top
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