Primer & Blocking Technique '74 Coupe

[Tommy F.]

Project Katrina has been completely chemically stripped, past the current blue, through to the original dark green, and now, gray glass. Apparently, a previous painter spent a fair amount of time working on panel match (based on the amount of putty on the car).

I'm thinking that the next step will be to smooth any small paint remnants and body filler at the bonding lines with wet 600. Following this step, I'm really puzzled about primer steps....start with a "self etching" primer, then follow with a "primer/surfacer" before blocking?

Any advice will be appreciated,

Thanks,

Tommy Flick
47713

[Mike G.]

Re: Primer & Blocking Technique '74 Coupe

Before proceeding with the first coat of whatever, you really need to consider working on the seams. Almost certainly there's entrapped chemicals that will potentially cause lifting later. Grind out that old bonding adhesive and either refill the groove with new material, or if you're ambitious -- you can glass them in solid. I'd also remove all the old bondo.

You don't need self-etching primer for fibreglass or SMC. What you need is epoxy primer. I recommend PPG DP-LF. Next a full coat of catalyzed polyester primer/filler. Goes by various names: Featherfill, SlickSand, PolyPrime.

Now you're ready to guide coat and start blocking. You'll quickly see where your highs and lows are. Block off as much of the primer/filler as you can. Then you can move forward with 2K primer, sealer, base and clear (I'm assuming you won't be shooting single stage material).

I highly recommend you check out the Autobody Store's forum on body & paint. Also, pick up a copy of "How to Paint Your Car on a Budget" by Pat Ganahl. Read it cover to cover before going any further. You'll be glad you did!

[Tommy F.]

Re: Primer & Blocking Technique '74 Coupe

Thanks Mike,

I've worn out a couple of Eastwood and Kevin Tetz DVDs to try and refamiliarize myself with the process...lots of new material since I held a spray gun. One major concern was to avoid "fraying" any of the surface glass. I'll stay tuned and take my time on this part of the project (body is still in 3 pieces).....I've come too far to get into a rush now!

Thanks again,

Tommy

[Mark S. Lovejoy]

Re: Primer & Blocking Technique '74 Coupe

Tommy,

Do not sand the body bare handed, always use a block. I like the thin flexible ones. You should use a variety of blocks depending on the size of the area and contour. Long blocks on the big flat surfaces.

The first primer should be a thick two part epoxy, I get it from a local boat guy. It's like gelcoat but sands out much easier and is a great filler.

Once the car is sanded out to your liking, shoot it with DP 90 (90 is black other colors are available). DP 90 is also a two part system and requires NO sanding before finish coats. I applied lacquer (it's a 65) but the DP line will accept lacquer, enamel or any of the new paint systems.

Hope this helps.

[Ray C.]

Re: Primer & Blocking Technique '74 Coupe

Hi!

I would recommend that you scrub, using a scrub brush, the body with hot soapy water. I clean the body right after removing the strip. Then rinse the body throughly using a cleaner grade lacquer thinner. It is very important that all chemicals have been removed from the fiberglass. I have talked to some restorers that like to let the body set in the sun light to cook out any chemicals that was not removed by the washing processes.

Ray