hi all - the engine is currently out of the car, completely rebuilt (came that way as it was purchased from someone in the middle of a project), it sits on a square of wood with wheels under the wood (casters) - what would be the best way to protect it? - throw a tarp over it? - more sealed, like with saran wrap? - or with something that breathes more like a painter's spill cloth? - thanks all!!
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Re: 70 LT1 - frameoff - engine
just to be clear, the 2 questions are: (1) does the covering need to breath in order to not gather moisture and rust in any way...or should it be airtight (or should some parts - e.g., carb - be airtight?) and (2) in either case, are we talking heretically sealed or basically keeping dust and restoration grime off or out of certain parts? - thanks again, Stephen -
Re: 70 LT1 - frameoff - engine
Stephen,
Is the engine completely assembled? Heads on, intake installed, exhaust manifolds, carburetor....etc?
If the engine is assembled it can be sealed up pretty easy to keep dirt out. Tape on the exhaust ports, tape on intake manifold carburetor flange, tape over fuel pump mount, plastic caps over radiator and heater hose connections. Then just cover it to keep dust off.
Remove plugs, squirt oil into cylinders, reinstall plugs.
Other opinions may be heard.
VerleComment
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Re: 70 LT1 - frameoff - engine
thanks verle - it is COMPLETELY assembled - came that way - but NONE of the items you mentioned have been done - so that will come tonight - sorry to be too detailed, but is duct tape ok? - or something lighter like painter's masking tape (the blue stuff) - and as for oil...motor oil or something else (promise i won't always be this ignorant) - anyway this is great info and very helpful! - thanks, stephenComment
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Re: 70 LT1 - frameoff - engine
I'd also pull the valve covers and losen the rocker arms. Because if it's like most of the other frame-offs-that engine will be on the stand for longer than you think.
RichardComment
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Re: 70 LT1 - frameoff - engine
I would use something as impervious to water vapor transmission as possible, particularly in your climate...take a look at that wide tan or clear plastic packing tape.
In Houston, you are going to have to keep everything inside that engine oil-wetted to keep it from rusting. On a regular basis, say every six months of so, remove the spark plugs and squirt in motor oil in all directions attempting to wet the entire top of the head and cylinder; after you've done this to all the cylinders turn the engine over a couple of turns to get everything possible covered with oil. Some say to spray WD-40 into the plug holes, but motor oil is better...it is not water-based, and it is heavy-bodied enough to cling to everything it touches.
Remove the valve covers and back the pressure off the rocker arms until all the tension is off the valve springs in order to close the valves completely; just remember to manually adjust the valves before attempting to start the engine. While you have the valve covers off, pour motor oil down each push rod to get a good oil film in the center valley, lifters, etc. Any excess will drain to the bottom of the oil pan to add protection there...drain and refill before starting.Comment
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Re: 70 LT1 - frameoff - engine
thanks all - very helpful - Chuck, re "turn the engine a couple of times..." someone told me that even doing that manually could "score" the engine (can't remember which part) - no clue what that means, but it did not sound good - the engine only has dyno time on it - and it appears to have been rebuilt in 1997 - i have no idea what has happened to it since then, other than it sits on a dolly that was purchased at that time and has moved 3 times: builder to prior owner; prior owner to agent; agent to me...does this change the view on turning it over with a breaker bar to the crank pulley...?Comment
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Re: 70 LT1 - frameoff - engine
Contrary to what Beavis and Butthead think, to "score" means to put deep scratches into the bearings or cylinder walls.
While you would need some foreign material in the sliding contact area to cause scoring, it's probably NOT a good idea to turn the engine "dry" unless you are planning to periodically "pre-lube" the engine by installing a oil pump drive tool that is driven with an electric drill. I assumed the engine had not been run, and that the assembly lube was still in the bearings.
Others with more experience may have additional comments on what you should do. Since the engine has been run, it started storage with a good oil coating...maybe you can get by with that alone if this restoration doesn't take too long. The reason you turn the engine periodically is to insure that the pistons and rings do not seize in the bores because of rust.Comment
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Re: 70 LT1 - frameoff - engine
Turning the engine over (crankshaft) is ok after you back off the rocker arm nuts. Otherwise you run the risk of wiping the assembly lub off the camshaft before you start the engine.
I don't think the rings will seize in the bores if they are well oiled down.
I would use engine oil, not WD-40; it is not a lubricant.
VerleComment
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