C2 fuel pump changeout

[Kevin Brooks]

Folks,

I have determined that I need to change my fuel pump for my '66 327cid. I was wondering if anyone has any helpful tips aside from what the manuals prescribe?
Since the lower radiator hose is quite close to the pump does anyone recommend its removal to help gain access?

Kevin

[William C.]

Re: C2 fuel pump changeout

Should have adequate clearance, don't want to add extra work to the project. Remember the use of a longer bolt to hold the push rod up when installing the new pump, and don't forget to replace it before starting the engine.

[James W.]

Re: C2 fuel pump changeout

Kevin,

The few fuel pumps the I have changed on 327 equipped C2's did not require the removal of the lower radiator hose. I don't know what the manual says exactly, but I would recommend the following:

- drain the gas tank completely including the fuel line leading to the fuel pump
- removing the alternator for a better view of the fuel pump from the top side
- be sure that the fuel pump push rod is in the correct position before removing the old fuel pump, lock it in place with the longer bolt that threads into the front of the block
- transfer the fuel pump inlet hard line and fittings from the old fuel pump to the new fuel pump before installing the new pump on the block
- install the new rubber fuel line and clamp onto the new fuel pump inlet line before installing the fuel pump on the car
- use some RTV sealant along with the new fuel pump gasket when reinstalling the new pump
- be sure to remove the long fuel pump push rod bolt and replace it with the proper length bolt using a little RTV to be sure it does not leak.

Hope this helps.

James West

[John H.]

Re: C2 fuel pump changeout

Not necessary to drain the fuel tank - I use a pair of plastic fuel hose clamp pliers to close off the gravity flow from the tank to the pump until the job is complete.

[Gerard F.]

Re: C2 fuel pump changeout

John,

What's that stainless steel band doing on your fuel line.
I got dinged for that once.

Kevin, I use a set of those needle nose visegrips, either on the front fuel hose or the rear tank to line hose to cut off the gas. Using the rear position is useful if you have to change the front hose, or getting things out of the way to work on the fuel pump.

However, beware if you have old brittle fuel hoses, it may be the start of a much larger job. Luckily I have fairly new hoses in both positions (and with the correct clamps )

Jerry Fuccillo
#42179

[Rob A.]

Re: C2 fuel pump changeout

Kevin...

James' suggestion of using the longer bolt from the front of the block to hold the pushrod in place and John's use of a pliers to block off the fuel line are all you need to make an easy job of it.

[Kevin M.]

Re: C2 fuel pump changeout

How do you tell this?

be sure that the fuel pump push rod is in the correct position before removing the old fuel pump,

Kevin

[John H.]

Re: C2 fuel pump changeout

Jerry -

That clamp was courtesy of the PO - went away about 4 years ago.

[Kevin Brooks]

Re: C2 fuel pump changeout

I have not taken my fuel pump off yet, nor have I ever done this before. It doesn't sound to complicated but there are several nagging questions which came up after reading all the responses.

1. What do you mean by the 'longer bolt' to hold the push rod up?
2. How do I know that the push rod is in the correct position before I remove the old fuel pump? If it's not in the correct position, do I need to remove the engine to fix or can I still fix it's position with engine in car?
3. Using RTV sealant is new but not surprising. I thought the gaskets alone would prevent any leaks..
4. Lastly, what is the relative positioning of the push rod to the fuel pump lever?

[John H.]

Re: C2 fuel pump changeout

Kevin -

1. See photo below - the topmost of the two tapped bosses on the front of the block, just around the corner from the fuel pump, should have a 3/8"-16 x 1/2" shipping bolt in it; that hole goes through, into the fuel pump pushrod hole. Remove it and use a longer substitute 3/8"-16 bolt, finger tight, to hold the pushrod in place while you change the fuel pump. After installing the pump, remove the substitute bolt and install the 1/2"-long shipping bolt, with thread sealer on it. Don't turn the engine over with the substitute bolt installed.

2. Pushrod position doesn't really matter, although it's easier to R&R the pump with the pushrod all the way "up" (on the base circle of the eccentric on the camshaft that drives it). The pushrod stroke is about 3/8"; you can "bump" the engine with the starter until the pushrod is all the way "up".

3. A film of RTV is "insurance".

4. The lever on the fuel pump must be outboard of the end of the pushrod as-installed; the end of the pushrod actuates the lever.

[Kevin Brooks]

Re: C2 fuel pump changeout

That is a great picture and VERY informative!!
Thank You!

Has is ever been known to re-intall the fuel pump and have a push rod incorrectly postioned? Is there a 'feel' or measurement I can use to tell if the push rod is riding the cam eccentric correctly?

[John H.]

Re: C2 fuel pump changeout

Kevin -

Just push it up with your finger - when it stops, it's on the eccentric that drives it.

[Harry Sadlock]

Re: C2 fuel pump changeout

John, great post with the picture.

Harry