I am getting ready to bond a Shermershiems fender on my 69 coupe. The old fender ( that was rusting from metal being used as bonding strips) is off and the original bonding strips are clean and preped. My question from a judging standpoint is weather to use an original type adhesive ( with fiberglass strands in it) or use a modern panel ponding adhesive? Thanks Brad
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Re: bonding adhesives
Brad, any bonding I do on my 70 is done with black tinted bonding adhesive from Corvette Image.
Shermershiems repro fender will be polyester resin based (FRP; fiberglass reinforced plastic) just like the original panels. For bonding FRP to FRP, the old polyester adhesive is perfectly adequate. You will also get original appearing joints...polyester bonding adhesive will squeeze out of the joint underneath, and look just like adjacent bonds from the factory. -
Re: bonding adhesives
Chuck, have you done a front fender? I have one held in place on my car. The upper bond strip appears to fit good but the lower strip below the grille seems to require quite a bit of force to tweek it arount to meet the spoiler joint. Any ideas? thanks BradComment
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Re: bonding adhesives
No, I haven't had that experience, but I will soon have to rebond both of my front fenders to the inner fenders (Dang people that run that irresistable front bumper into immovable walls!)
So, we're talking about the lower fender below the bonding seam, right? What you're really asking is how to hold the lower front fender and bonding strip in position until the adhesive sets up?
The real creativity in doing fiberglass work IS NOT the grinding, mixing resin/adhesive, saturating, and rolling the saturated mat...the creativity comes in trying to figure out ingenious ways to support, restain, retain, etc. all the new and exitsting pieces in harmony, without the support getting in your way, until the lamination or bonding adhesive is completely cured.
I am going to give you an idea that will be anathema to many fiberglass body people (maybe they'll give you some better ideas). When it's taking a LOT OF FORCE to keep pieces properly aligned, one option is to use big fat screws in pre-drilled undersize holes.
Most books will tell you DO NOT USE screws...what they mean is don't use screws AND LEAVE THEM IN PLACE; if you grind off the heads/stubs, and try to finish over them they will cause you big problems. Use as few as possible to get the job done, and plan on removing the screws after the adhesive sets up (might want to apply a little wax to the threads). Also plan on covering/disguising the empty holes with bonding adhesive in a natural appearing slop or applying body filler over them. If judges see the holes or screw remains, it will be a deduct.Comment
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