68 Numbers

[Jeffrey W.]

I recently purchased a 68 convertible project. My goal is to build a nice driver. I paid a low enough price that I'm ok if the numbers don't match, but it would be a nice find if they do! Here are the details:

VIN: 194678S428289
Block: 3914678 / G58
Block stamp: 18S428289 / V073IHP
Heads: 3917291 G38 (passenger) G58 (driver side)

The car has been in storage for the past 10 years and much appears original. My research, including these forums, tells me that I probably do not have a numbers matching engine, but that the engine is pretty correct for a 68. I do have a/c, but no p/s. From what I have read, I should have an HT suffix, not HP as I do not have p/s. If that is the case, then someone did a nice job stamping a counterfeit vin into the block. Here are the two scenarios I have come up with that would make this the original engine:

1. Car was originally p/s but it was removed and converted to manual somewhere in the past.

2. Since my car was in the last month of production, and the 327 was in its last year, is it possible that too many HP engines were produced and therefore used in cars that were not both a/c and p/s?

Any input on the topic would be greatly appreciated. In the chance it is original, my restoration plans will be different than if non-matching. Thanks in advance.

[Wayne P.]

Re: 68 Numbers

Unless, you have a 350 horsepower car, I would say it's the correct engine. What is the tach redline?

[Gregory M.]

Re: 68 Numbers

You already know the obvious...your casting numbers are correct for a 1968 (although I did not check the heads), the pad stamp on the block matches the cars vin (HP indicates a 327/300, A/C, P/S, Man Trans.) and your casting dates are all early July 1968 which would appear consistent with a car built in the last month of production. What is the build date on your trim tag?

Taking into account the cars history (long storage) and the fact that you indicate you did not pay anywhere near "top dollar" for the car, commons sense tells me the engine is original. I cant imagine anyone went to the trouble to find and assemble an engine with matching casting dates and added a quality restamp just to leave it in storage and then sell it cheap...seems like a lot of work for nothing...just my humble opinion...I think it far more likely the PS was removed in the past...have you looked for a build sheet or tank sticker?

GM

[Jeremy D.]

...and nobody restamps base motors...well, maybe.. *NM*

[Jeffrey W.]

Re: ...and nobody restamps base motors...well, may

Thanks for the input. Here are a couple answers: Tach redline is 6000. The trim tag date is H08. I replaced the fuel tank last week - no tank sticker. Where do I look for the build sheet? Finally, I've seen conflicting information on the horsepower of the HP suffix. Mike Antonick's Corvette Black Book says the HT and HP were both 350hp, but I have also seen places where the HP is a 300hp. All places agree the HP came with mt, ac and ps.

Thanks again.

[Chuck S.]

Here's The "Perfect Way"...

To make the engine correct...retrofit to power steering. Even if it were a factory anomaly, this would be your lucky day.

[Jim T.]

Re: Here's The "Perfect Way"...

Jeff you have a nice combination your new 68 Corvette purchase. Having the small block, air conditioning, and 4-speed you will really be able to enjoy driving your 68. Look at the connection where the tire rod connects to each wheel. If the rear hole is filled this would be a very good indication that your 68 came with power steering and someone removed it. If the tie rods are in the rear holes your 68 may very well of come without power steering. If the tie rods are in the front holes it will be more difficult to steer because this is the faster ratio for steering without power steering. So if you do install power steering the tie rod ends need to be repositioned to the front holes. I found my original owner 68's build sheet behind the radio when I removed the radio for repair many years ago. Knowing what was on it anyway, it just left it in place when I replaced the radio. I found the build sheet on my original owner 70 tucked up in the wiring around the back of the tach. You might get lucky and find your 68's. I changed my 68 (no power steering) years ago to the front holes to see what it would be like in the faster ratio position. It does require more effort, however my 68 is now just a pleasure driver so I just enjoy it.

[Anthony S.]

Re: 68 Numbers

Jeff,

'68 suffixes are not too specific on options for the base engine, they only identify the horsepower and transmission. For the L-79 it makes the distinction between the options ordered.

You seem to have the correct block, heads & stampings for a correct L-79.

HE = 300 HP Manual
HO = 300 HP Automatic
HP = 350 HP Manual w/ P/S, A/C
HT = 300 HP Manual

As stated, the spindle holes should help determine if you had P/S. Does it have the bracket or evidence of the bracket for the assist cylinder or a double crank pulley that's not being used? Seems like a lot of trouble to fake a VIN on car that seems forgotten.

As you know, wierd stuff happens to these cars over 40 years.

Good luck,

Anthony

[Jeffrey W.]

Re: Here's The "Perfect Way"...

Finally got home and checked the tie rods - they are in the rear hole. I've also begun the process of tracing the ownership history to see if anyone has answers. I have copies of the title from 1990-1998 and 2004-present. I'm working to track down some of these owners and fill in the information holes. Regardless of the numbers matching, it's going to be a great car on the road. Thanks for the inputs. The idea of retrofitting p/s is very intriguing.

[Chuck S.]

Re: Here's The "Perfect Way"...

Many owners of shark cars convert to PS even if it is "incorrect". Of course,these are not judged cars; they are driven regularly for fun.

When the owner sells the car, they can offer the buyer the choice of a "correct" car by removing the PS, or a car that's easier to drive with PS left installed. I expect most take the car "as is". In your case, the HP suffix is a windfall...power steering would be correct AND it's a desireable option on these cars.

In your position, I would take full advantage of this good fortune. You can argue about originality, but if there is no evidence (build sheet) to confirm the original configuration one way or the way, then you can select the most advantageous interpretation with a clean conscience. JMHO.

[Paul B.]

350hp A/C Question.....

...suprised this has not been asked sooner, but it being a 4spd car with A/C, does it have the "barrel metal radiator shroud" or the plastic elongated one??? Also, does it have an "idle solenoid" on the driver's side of the carb that "bumps" up the idle. I don't think they were ever on 4spd cars, but there is debate...

[Jim T.]

Re: 68 Numbers

Anthony your posting HT=300 HP Manual is not correct. 68's with the HT suffix are 327/350 HP. This is what my 68 L79 has on its original engine, it is 4-speed and M21 with 3:70 rear gears.

[Anthony S.]

Re: 68 Numbers

Jim,

You're correct......It should be HT for the 327/350HP L-79.

Sorry about that.......Copy & Paste error........

I wish I could edit posts.

Anthony