Pulled the trans from the old 70. Man was it tough comming out. I couldn't get enough room to slide the rear far enough for the input shaft to get loose from the bell housing. Had the shifter bracket loose-- IT was the cause of all my trouble. Anyway I had to loosen the bellhousing and get everything loose and about to hit the floor before the trans came out. What gives? The engine is a BB---I pulled the shifter assy out and cleaned it up and lubed it but what is the easy way to reinstall all this mess? Thanks Thad #32187
70 muncie going back in!?
Collapse
X
-
Re: 70 muncie going back in!?
I just went thru that with a muncie and engine I just rebuilt. The muncie leaked a little in the front. The way the manual says is to take out the shifter and the little cross member bracket-bring the trans back-turn the trans clockwise-then back some more-then let the motor down a little at the back just before the dist hits the firewall. I took a look at all that and thought about trying to put it back in by myself (car was only about 18" off ground at frame) and decided to pull the engine and trans as a unit and fix the trans and back in as a unit. It took me 8 hours by myself from start to back running and if my trans has to come out again I will do it again unless 2 or 3 hefty guys with a hoist show up. That might not ge for you, but that is what a felt.
Bob- Top
-
Re: 70 muncie going back in!?
Thad------
I can't imagine why you had all of this trouble. I'll admit that it's no picnic to remove a manual transmission from a 63-79 Corvette with welded-in-type transmission crossmember, but you should have been able to do it without loosening the bellhousing first. Big block or small block should make no difference with respect to this service operation, either. From the engine back, everything, including all dimensions, is the same for big and small block.
When performing this, though, I recommend that the shifter and linkage be completely removed from the car and the transmission mount and associated brackets also be completely removed from the car. Also, I recommend that the transmission output yoke be removed and replaced with a sealing plug available from auto parts stores. With all of the impediments removed, I've always been able to get the transmission out.
I will mention one other possibility, though. If, when you supported the engine/bellhousing prior to removal of the transmission, you slightly RAISED it, that will complicate transmission removal. Conversely, slightly LOWERING the engine/bellhousing at the support point will facilitate transmission removal.In Appreciation of John Hinckley- Top
Comment
-
Re: 70 muncie going back in!?
Pull the shifter bracket off entirely, put the B/H back on, Drop the rear of the engine down a little (Jack) and then push the trans all the way back into the crossmember, you will clear if you've dropped the rear of the engine enough. The motor mounts will give enough to allow this, just don't unload the weight of the entire engine on them.- Top
Comment
-
Re: 70 muncie going back in!?
Thad, I just pulled the transmission on my 70 this weekend. With the brackets, rear yoke and entire shifter assembly removed, it was tight getting out but came out just the same. I only lowered the engine slightly from the raised position (about back to where it was originally), and had 1/2 inch of clearance. I could have dropped the engine more, as I have the distributor off, but didn't need to. I should add, that it would not come out at all without the rear yoke removed. But if you follow the instructions posted (the same as the assembly manual, by the way) it should go. Good luck.- Top
Comment
-
Re: 70 muncie going back in!?
I have to go with what Joe says. THe shifter has to be out of the car along with the the yoke. There is no other way!!! Lift the engine up to loosen and work on everything and then to remove just lower engine till Dist. is about an inch from the firewall- Top
Comment
Comment