Frame-mount shifter retrofit 65-66

[Jim V.]

I am considering going to the frame-mounted shifter on my late 65. I know Joe L. recommends this highly, but are there other opinions out there on the advisability of this mod? Also, If I do, what technique is used to drill the trans crossmember to allow bracket attachment? Would it be advised to just drill and tap, use self threading bolts, or another approach be advisable.

Thanks

[Albert P.]

Re: Frame-mount shifter retrofit 65-66

If you buy the kit, it comes with self-tapping bolts; the instructions are easy to follow, simply drilling into the crossmember at the dimensions indicated.

[William C.]

Re: Frame-mount shifter retrofit 65-66

With all due respect to Joe, why would you ever want to consider a plan that makes the shifting less precise due to the introduction of relative motion between the shifter and the trans? I would vote for the shifter solidly monudes to the trans every time. I think the folks who designed shifters for Hurst felt the same way.

[Dennis C.]

I'd read Bill's post a couple times...

...before I starting changing things the General did...

[Joe L.]

Re: I'd read Bill's post a couple times...

Jim, Bill and Dennis------

I think that it all depends what a person wants more of. If one wants the more positive shifting, then the transmission mount is the way to go. As mentioned, this is the mounting configuration used by Hurst and also used by GM for Corvettes until mid-1966.

However, if one wishes a more quiet and vibration-free shifter, then the frame mount is the way to go. I can say that I've been more than satisfied with the shifting qualities of every Corvette with frame-mounted shifter that I've ever driven. That might not be the case if I had driven them really hard (e.g. speed shifting, power shifting, etc.). However, I drive my cars only on the street and I don't use such techniques for street driving.

Also, keep in mind that GM switched to the frame mount in mid-1966 and used it right through the 1981 model year. I don't think they would have done that if there were no problems, at all, with the transmission mount.

[William C.]

Re: I'd read Bill's post a couple times...

I certainly agree with the tradeoffs, but I have found that a careful rebuild of the shifter including paying attention to minimize the "slop" between the shift actuating arms goes a long way toward reducing rattle/vibration while retaining the positive feel of the tran-mounted setup. A well balanced engine/clutch-flwheel assembly is a big help also.

[Jim V.]

Shifter rebuild...?

What all can be done for a rebuild? There appears to be no replaceable components with the exception of the shifter T bushings. Is it just a matter of disassembly, cleaning, reassembly, and grease?

Thanks

[William C.]

Re: Shifter rebuild...?

Well, a close inspection of the housing the levers are in will sometimes reveal that the weld that holds the thing together has seperated. Also, the housings tend to "grow" with time, so a decent press can be used to tighten the clearances between the selection levers to minimize excess movement. Also look closely at the assembly manual, most of the levers between the shifter and the trans are attached with spring clips, not cotter pins. These are also an important part of keepint the noise down to an acceptable level.

[Jim V.]

Thks Bill.....n/m *NM*

[Dick W.]

Re: Shifter rebuild...?

Most all components of the shifter are replaceable and are available from you vendor of choice. Vette Products of Michigan, Keen, C Central, Joe Ray, are just a few of the vendors that stock these parts. It does not take a rocket scientist to do this work, as I have been able to rebuild them. Good Saturday afternoon project for the owner/mechanic.