What do those who have had their cars flight judged do to clean the engine compartment before judging? I am concerned about getting the light film of oil/road grime that accumulates even on a seldom driven car. If it is "gunk" degreaser and a water hose I'd like to know, if there is something better, more gentle, wiser, to use on an original car I'd like to know that. Your experiences please... Thanks.
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Re: engine compartment cleanup for judging
Depends on how dirty things are.... A degreaser like SIMPLE GREEN or PURPLE POWER or a host of others dilluted with water will work. Mix some up and put in a spray bottle. Apply it; let it set for about 30 secs and wash off with a hose. Repeat as necessary....
DO NOT APPLY ON A WARM ENGINE OR IN DIRECT SUNLIGHT. Don't let it dry.
The stronger the mixture the quicker the job, and the greater the possibilty of streaks etc.
Cover the fenders etc to avoid getting the stuff on the paint job.....
Once you are done and things are clean, wipe it down, then start engine and let it come to full temp to dry out any areas. Better yet take it for a spin. When they are clean they just run better!!!! -
Re: engine compartment cleanup for judging
On my daily drivers I always used Gunk about once a year, and it also works well for an old car that has a lot of grease/dirt accumulation in some areas. Use a old paint brush to work heavy accumulation, and multiple applications may be required. Make sure the block casting number and date code is clean, so it can be seen.
Once an engine compartment is clean it's easy to keep it so on a seldom driven car. If there are any pesky little oil leaks, they can be "touched up" occasionally by spritzing the area with paint thinner from a spray bottle. The top of the compartment can be kept clean with an old paint brush, duster, and comressed air to get rid of accumulated road dust.
A bit of surface dust is no big deal, but heavy dirt/grease accumulation is definitely not represenatative of St. Louis production, and it's easy to fix.
An older restoration or unrestored engine compartment usually has a "patina" including paint fading/wear and rust spots where the paint is completely gone. As far as condition points are concerned I'm very lenient on that, but I DON'T like dirt and grime. Other opinions may differ.
DukeComment
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Re: engine compartment cleanup for judging
Duke Good to get some insight,I don't like dirt and grime.Anything else judging wise? Us.. I should say me Original guys don't like to clean to much.Do you have the ABC's for cleaning and would you like to share info with us newbees. DennyComment
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Re: engine compartment cleanup for judging
My basic philosophy is to use the least harsh chemicals for cleaning that will get the job done. For most body and interior cleaning, mild soap (like car wash soap or a mild dishwashing soap like Ivory Liquid) and water are fine, plus upholstery and carpet cleaners as necessary. And a good assortment of old toothbrushes and paint brushes should get all the nooks and crannies. Others have their favorites like Simple Green.
If the engine and surrounding areas are really encrusted with greasy dirt, the only way to really get it clean is to use Gunk, brushes, and a light water rinse. Gunk works best on a hot engine. Once the greasy stuff is gone you can start lightly scrubing with brushes and soap and water. This might take several sessions as the first time you will miss spots that you won't see until everything is dry. A leaf blower quickens the drying process. Remove the air cleaner (and cover carb and PCV openings) and ignition shielding and clean these parts individually. After Gunking a hot engine, steam will inevitably condense inside the distributor cap, so removing it for a thorough drying should be SOP.
A spray bottle with soap solution and a water rinse spray bottle works well to touch up missed areas if they are few enough to not justify a complete bath again.
As far as solvents go, mineral spirits or paint thinner is excellent for small oily areas without attacking paint, and once everything is initially clean, it can be used to touch up any accumulation from oil seepage or leaks. Just spritz away with a spray bottle until the area is clean and it will quickly dry.
The frame paint is an exception since the OE coating is asphalt based, and it's soluble in paint thinner or mineral spirits as are most crayon marks.
Stay away from lacquer thinner and acetone! (Note: lacquer thinner is really poor at dissolving grease compared to paint thinkner, and it will dissolve any lacquer based paints, which includes original lacquer body and engine paint. Acetone is a very powerful organic solvent and will attack virtually all organic materials including most plastics.)
I recommend avoiding pressure washing because it can literally peel off old paint and can force water into electrical connectors.
My favorite old Corvettes are the low mileage, unrestored examples that are getting really rare, especially if the owner knows some of the history, and especially if they are really well detailed as far as cleanliness is concerned in the engine comparment, body, and interior. Chassis cleanliness is less important to me except for heavy grease or mud accumulation, which should be removed. Almost everything underneath will have at least light surface corrosion and ground in dirt - no big deal. That's just 40 years of "patina".
It's interesting that in the antique furniture world, excess cleaning and certainly refinishing will reduce the value of a classic piece. The most valuable examples still have their original finish and 100-300 years of "patina".
For Bowtie candidates, very little cleaning should be done other than to be sure that critical numbers and markings are visible.
One "trick" I've used on old original engines and compartments once everything is clean is to fog in a 50-50 blend of Armor-All and distilled water. Mist it very lightly on everything - literally everything - except chrome (remove the ignition shielding and air cleaner if it's chrome), and then immediately take the car for a drive. Airflow will tend to spread an even film everywhere and the water will evaporate. The process tends to give old paint, plastic, and plating an even satin patina and look much newer without leaving an obvious film that you can see or feel. Wipe any residue off chrome or polished metal. Any untreated spots can be touched up with a light spitz and an old paint brush. The Armor-All will also protect the exhaust manifolds from surface rust. Whatever the active ingredient (silicone?), heat doesn't seem to burn it off.
Once you get to this point and don't get the engine compartment wet, it will stay looking great for a long time with little more than an occasional paint brush dusting and blowing with compressed air or a leaf blower.
NCRS judging is not like classic car "white glove" judging - no dings for dust or light dirt. They certainly weren't "concours" when delivered, and nothing better is expected.
A couple of days ago a buddy dropped by to show me his GF's new Ford Focus. When I opened the hood I was pleasantly surprised to NOT find a plastic engine cover, but there were light mud splatters in the engine comparment - probably went through some rain in shipping. I admonished him for letting me see that before he got it cleaned up, but I haven't seen his new Ford GT for six months, so I don't know if he cleaned it up yet. He tends to let that stuff slide. Details! Details!
DukeComment
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Re: engine compartment cleanup for judging
Duke WOW nice post Thank's This one I will print.I think I have your favorite old corvette unrestored.I cut the original exhaust off not knowing so I have stoped working/cleaning till I have the correct info.This car may or may not be rare but that is up to you PRO'S.Thanks for your time and great info DennyComment
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