Door Panels - Al Knoch

[Ed D.]

Well my 1965/66 doorpanels finally arrived after some delay. They look beautiful... However, what a mess !! Nothing lines up even close. Yes, I did read some posts from over a year ago mentioning some adjustments may be needed to cranks etc. An ajustment won't fix this. The door panel doesn't even line up on the lip. I can't believe they can't get this right after several years.

QUESTION: The box said they are for a 65/66 roadster. I believe they actually may be for a coupe. Is there any way to tell them apart?

Thanks.. ed

[KEN EDMUNDS]

Re: Door Panels - Al Knoch

On a coupe door panel the stainless trim on top terminates about 2 inches from the forward end to allow for the door frame pillar. On a conv, the trim goes all the way to the end of the panel.

[Ed D.]

Re: Door Panels - Al Knoch

Thanks... I guess I will look elsewhere.
I was thinking the door panel leading edge (door handle side) was beveled on the convertible and pointed on the coupe. The steel lip goes to far over on the new door panels and won't sit flush because of the car door.

[Ed D.]

Panels for power window car

...just noticed... no hole for window crank ! Hopefully next set better.

[Bill S.]

Re: Panels for power window car

you have to drill the hole. puting them on right is a lot of work and takes a lot of patience. they will form to the door as you start drawing them in. have a warm space lots of light and a helper. i think you will find the panel is fine and the next set will be the same. mine did not come together until i had everything in place and tightened up, then wow nice fit. i thought the same thing when i first mocked them up. call them about it before returning, it is possible but not probable they are defective,bill

[Ed D.]

Re: Panels for power window car

Bill .... are you saying I have to drill the hole for the window crank !!!!!
I thought all the holes were already precut .

[Bill S.]

Re: ya sure do

from what i understand most require it. look it from a suppliers point of veiw. you would require 2 skews of every color for a minor change. look on the back you will see the slots for the bezel. use a sharp instrument (awl) to poke hole to find location from front. do not assume the center mock up bezel find the center and poke a small hole with and awl mock up the panel and check alignment with window crank post, it may be off a bit. your references are the pull handle holes and arm rest. these need to be DEAD on even if your crank is not exactly on center in the bezel. you will find the same with the lock knob. i use a hole saw i believe around 3/4 inch. but you decide. now here is wear 35 yrs of car audio comes in. if you run a hole saw back wards you can cut a hole in toilet paper. the trick is have a good pilot hole (drill by itself) if you insert the hole saw by hand and turn by hand in reverse a few rotations you can start a track to follow when you use the drill. if not comfortable do not do. the vender may have fitted the bezel if requested but i think fitting it to the car itself is better.

[Ed D.]

Re: ya sure do

Thanks Bill !
...you have a great point.

...Ed