Re: Tastin the Freeze
Jer --- One thing is certain; ou won't need your winter coat.
Jer --- One thing is certain; ou won't need your winter coat.
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Re: Interesting comment,
Wild Bill,
Just noticed an interesting comment, and no need to respond, but you mentioned greater surface contact increasing the ability to transfer heat. Sounds like a proponent of the old heat-transfer "theorums". But no need for me to "go there", that's more than "deep water", for me it's an abyss. TBarr #24014Comment
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Re: Switching to Dexcool - WaterWetter
I'm excited about the WaterWetter. I ordered some last Thursday - should receive it today. My .030-over 427/435 always runs hottish with 50/50 antifreeze(never under around 210), despite new radiator, pump, cap, clutch, thorough shroud sealing, three skinned knuckles, etc. In addition, I think the engine gets significantly hotter than the coolant (bad heat transfer) as evident (I think) from the fact that when the engine gets hot, I think the gas may be boiling in the secondary carbs, because performance goes straight to the toilet (I mean it will hardly rev up). Any comments about my possibly erroneous deductions will be appreciated! I definately don't have a catastrophic problem, because the heating occurs over a period of twenty minutes or more. The radiator just can't quite keep up in stop and go situations.
MichaelComment
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Re: Switching to Dexcool - WaterWetter
I'm pretty sure you can use 2 bottles if you want/need to.Comment
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Re: Switching to Dexcool - WaterWetter
Where is this stuff sold? Vette suppliers? STW, MikeComment
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Re: Tastin the Freeze
Make sure ya stick an olive in each glass and maybe a tad of dry vermouth. Are you SURE ya can't get things cleaned out? I know of a 12 step antifreeze program if ya keep on tasting the drain water. Buddy of mine, a plumber, used to huff cesspools till he cross addicted on bubble gum.
Varooom!Comment
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Re: Anti-freeze or What in a aluminum radiator
Good to hear a Prestone man "fess up" I sort of an old Fart myself. That's all I've ever used in my aluminum Vette radiators and I never had a problem.
Varooom!Comment
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Re: Switching to Dexcool - WaterWetter
RedLine WaterWetter is sort of a high-performance / racing sort of fluid. It's main advantage over 50/50 antifreeze/water is 2x the cooling ability of 50/50. A disadvantage is that it offers no protection for freezing. It also does not raise the boiling point. It lets racers use smaller radiators. Less weight, less drag, etc. and still keep the corrosion inhibitors and wetting ability.
I did a search on Excite and bought mine on the Internet(I hear it's pretty cool!) at a site called www.nipponpower.com for $9.95. I found it somewhere else for $8.95, but lost the URL.
There is also a website for Redline that tells you all about it. I think it's www.redlineoil.com. Of course, they are touting their own product, so take the testimonials of users, instead of them. Their stats and facts (theories?) are quite interesting, though.
-MichaelComment
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Re: Anti-freeze or What in a aluminum radiator
I've used Water-Wetter in my overheating 65 365hp small block. Instructions say to not have more than 15% anti-freeze in the coolent mix. Also claims a 30d. reduction in temp. My results show very little ,if any, temp reduction. I then tryed another NAPA engine-cool product(claims a 20-30d. reduction)This stuff was ok to mix with a larger volume of anti-freeze. Results; same opperating temp. as before!I'm going back to 60-40 Prestone!Comment
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Re: Switching to Dexcool - WaterWetter
If you have Pep Boys in your area I have seen Water Wetter there. For those that are interested I have also seen a product called 40 degrees below at Advance Auto Parts Stores.
NickComment
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Re: Anti-freeze or What in a aluminum radiator
I was wondering if anyone has or is pondering switching to Evans NPG coolant? Have read about it on their web site and it looks like good stuff.
NickComment
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Is Engine a Boiler?
In commercial and domestic hot water heating systems it is always believed that the water becomes inert after a period of use in these systems.My own belief would be also to use distilled water along with your antifreeze to arrive at the same result.Somehow though with that in mind,I would think you would want to use your coolant for the recommended time frame with the belief that it too will become inert after a period of time.If one was to believe that almost constant changing of coolant would be good, would we be introducing more chemicals that have not yet become inert into the system and actually doing more harm?Comment
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Re: Is Engine a Boiler?
Oxygen and heat degrade the inhibitor packages. Old cars without coolant recovery tanks have vapor space in the radiator top tank or expansion tank. Each time the engine's tmperature differentials change, air may be drawn into the engine when it cools down. Continually adding inhibitor packages without flushing the system would likely result in a buildup of degraded inhibitors and coolant. There would also be increased solids in the system which will accelerate water pump seal wear. Flushing helps in that it removes degraded product, solids, and saturated solutions. The only drawback to continually flushing the system is the intorduction of oxygen into the system.Comment
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No, it's a battery
Even distilled or deionized water is a weak electrolyte because a very small amount of water disassociates into a positive hydrogen ion and a negative hydroxide ion. If you imerse aluminum or any other metal in water a very tiny amount will be stripped of an electron an dissolve into solution as a positive ion, which increases the strength of the electrolyte. Now when we have two metals in an electrolyte one will be sacrificial and loose material, and aluminum is low on the Electro-Motive Force table so it is usually the loser. The purpose of corrosion inhibitor packages in antifreeze is to stop this electrolytic corrosion reaction, but the details of corrosion mechanisms are often not well understood, so it's somewhat trial and error to develop a good package. The other thing to remember is that these additives are "consumed" over time by chemical reactions which weakens the corrosion protection.
I have a lot of first hand experience viewing the devastating effects of corrosion on the aluminum blocks, heads, and coolant pump housings from Cosworth Vegas. All had received poor cooling system maintenance i.e. the antifreeze was rarely if ever changed, and not renewed when hoses blew, so many had little more than tap water in them before their demise.
A professional restorer who works on old Ferraris taught me a neat trick - measure the cooling system voltage. With a good quality digital voltmeter place the positive probe in the coolant and the negative probe on the negative battery terminal or other good ground. It should measure no more than about 250 millivolts. If it's over 500 millivolts there is serious electrolytic corrosion in progress. He's seen cars that measured over one volt. There was enough corrosion going on to literally light a flashlight bulb.
The steel pipes in a heating systems are quite thick and take decades to corrode through or build up enough mineral deposits to become blocked. Likewise, the cast iron engine components in Corvettes are quite robust and forgiving, but our pricy aluminum radiators are fabricated from very thin stock of an unforgiving material. That's what we're trying to protect with good cooling system maintenance. BTW, one can buy a corroded, but rebuildable Cosworth Vega block, sleeve it and finish hone the cylinders for not much more than half the price of a new DeWitts radiator.
DukeComment
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Re: Switching to Dexcool - WaterWetter
Here's a novel idea! READ the owner's manual and do what it says. Prestone ain't all that bad!
Dale.Comment
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