Hi guys, I have a question for you C1 experts. I just replaced the cancelling cam on a friends '62. It already had an NOS switch, I replaced the cam because it had stripped threads. I don't know how it worked before, but now the signals won't return to center. The flat return spring looks fine, the switch moves sorta freely, and the pivot screw isn't binding. I put white grease on all the moving parts. The only thing that seems to return the switch to center is the flat spring, right? I've worked on the '63 style (cable) and those use an additional "W" spring. Is this '62 supposed to have one of those? Is there something other than the flat spring that returns the turn signal to center? Thoughts? BTDT? Thanks in advance, Craig
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Re: C1 turn signal switch won't center
The 62 only has the flat spring. It sounds to me like you've done a pretty thorough job of working through this one--my only thoughts for help center on having the heavy wire spring, the little cams, the flat spring, and all the other pieces properly situated. Also, of course, is the issue with where the cancelling pins are (on the back of the steering wheel) in relationship to the mechanism in the turn signal "cup". The pins on the back of the wheel need to be on the left side, aligned vertically when the steering column and wheel are in the straight ahead position. (Pins at 8 and 10 o'clock, eg). I hope something in here triggers a solution for you! Good luck! -
Add-on...
This TS mechanism was probably designed by Rube Goldberg himself! It dates back to the early 50's when electric turn signals were offered as an option (sticking your hand out the window was 'standard').
The thing is a Swiss watch of mechanical components and when working fresh/new, there's ABSOLUTELY no 'slop' between the TS housing and the steering column or in the rest position of the TS lever. If you can wiggle/jiggle either the housing or the TS lever, you've got component wear issues to go find and resolve!
The TS switch has NO mechanical detents and it relies on the mechanics of the housing and return components to move the switch to RH/LH turn positions and the cancelling mechanism to return the switch to its DEAD NUTS CENTER position. Further, the switch is a break before make design which means when the switch is in between positions (RH, Center, LH) you have NO POWER to the tail lights!!!!!
So, as you work on your car look for any/all situations of mechanical 'slop' and remove it by devising + adding shims to the TS housing to steering column interface and consider filling and drill/re-tap the cancelling mechanism to TS housing pivot pin mounting hole.Comment
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Re: C1 turn signal switch won't center
Thanks for the input, especially the note about "slop". This example has slop in many ways. The lever probably moves up and down 3/4" when it's supposed to be centered and the housing isn't all that secure on the column. From a standpoint of the cancel cams and spring, that all seems to work OK, it's just when the flat spring is supposed to do its job, it doesn't have the strength to center the lever. I guess I'll just have to take everything apart and give it another go. I had the sense that the NOS switch required more effort than I thought it should. AFIR, they should move with the slightest touch and this one took more than a touch to move it. Any comments about that? Thanks all, CraigComment
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Re: C1 turn signal switch won't center
The turn signal switch must return to the center position after a turn in order to operate the brake lights properly. If it doesn't return to the center, only one brake light will work. The problem usually is caused by wear between the flat leaf spring and the two pins that it contacts. You can see the two pins by looking under the turn signal ring. They bear against the leaf spring. When the leaf spring wears in its mounting grooves, it will not have sufficient contact with the two pins to completely return the electrical switch to the center position after a turn. An easy fix is to go to a hobby shop and buy a piece of hollow brass tubing that measures one quarter inch on the outside diameter. The wall thickness is about .025 inches. Cut off two small pieces of this tubing with a tubing cutter. They should be about 5/16" long each. Using a small vise, like a drill press vise, push each of these short lengths of tubing over one of the pins on the underside of the turn signal ring. This will make the pins slightly larger in diameter. That increase in diameter will help take up for the wear that has occurred over the years. When you put the parts back together again, you will find that the turn signal canceling mechanism will cancel smartly after each turn, thereby centering the turn signal switch and restoring operation of both brake lights.
Joe CalcagnoComment
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