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TRY JUDGING MANUAL
I'd be supprised if it isn't there!
Varooom! -
Re: Engine Stamp Lettering Size
Jeph,
Do you have power steering? If you do, that would be another clue that something is awry. CTU-coded LT-1s had the 6-quart oil pan and no power steering according to the Judging Guide.
The alphanumeric sizes on the engine pad should be different when comparing VIN derivative and engine ID stamp code. The VIN derivative should be located on the inboard side and the ID code on the outboard side. Approximate dimensions of the stamped alphanumerics are 4mm for the VIN derivative (70S4xxxxx) and 5mm for the ID code.
Get the Technical Information Manual & Judging Guide! It really does have alot of the information you are after (except dimensions/fonts). Go to some NCRS events and be a observer judge and you will learn even more!TonyComment
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Re: Engine Stamp Lettering Size *TL*
Jeph,
It is our turn to surprise Dale. Old Varoooooom is too used to those C1 cars and manuals. I didn't want to give the guys a blueprint to stamp the blocks, so I didn't put the size of the fonts in the 1970-1972 manual. The other, and more important, reason is I have no idea what size they are. I would have to go out and measure them.
I think you are misreading the cylinder case date - it likely is L239 - 3, 6 8 and 9 are all hard to make out on the casting numbers and dates.
Every number you posted works just fine with other cars on my list. The trim tag you refer to is stainless steel and survives much better than anything around it.
Is the VIN derivative on the block the same as the VIN of your car? Do you see fine lines on the pad that are parallel to the crankshaft? If both answers are yes - be happy. Enjoy your LT1.
Terry
TerryComment
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Engine ID
Tony/Terry, No P/S, P/B or A/C. The sizes match your description, the size change made me suspicious. (When taken with the other lies/shoddy work I have discovered from the previous owner.) I only have a 5 qt oil capacity (with filter) as far as I can tell. I put in 5 qts every change, and do not run low. I see no numbers on the oil pan to identify it with. Still, I am almost very relieved, but my VIN and ID codes are reversed from your description. If the crank is the vehicle centerline, and the fender is outboard, the VIN is outboard and the ID is inboard, with the letters up when viewed from the nose of the car. Then VIN does match everywhere, but I do not see the fine lines Terry described. I'll have a judging manual soon...Thanks guys! JephComment
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Re: Engine Stamp Lettering Size
Jeph,
I don't *think* LT-1's are any different in stamping inboard / outboard than the base engine 350's and mine sound exactly like yours.... aka VIN derivative in smaller / different (rounder) font closer to the fender and the engine type closer to the centerline in larger font. BTW if you're looking aft so the letters / numbers are right side up, the VIN derivative is left justified, whereas the engine code is right justified. There's a fairly large gap inbetween. Hope it's OK to say that here on the forum. I've followed the threads about the broach marks but frankly can't see what the heck they're all talking about. I think that they must be almost microscopic, or only visible under certain circumstances. I understand the circular ones, but for the life of me I can't see the parallel to the crank case ones.... then again, maybe I just don't know what to look for. Anyways, you might not be alone.
BTW, I had my car judged and they confirmed that I have the original block... at least in the opinion of the 2 judges viewing my car. Relax. I was sorta paranoid too after I found some evidence of a rear quarter panel incident when working on bumper brackets. The former owner had selective amnesia in my case too. I'll tell you though that having my car judged was a VERY good experience in that it put all those fears and worries to rest. Plus it was fun and I learned a TON! Nothing like the experts going over everything letting me know what I do and don't have... exactly, down to the last bolt. You might think about having it judged. It's OK to get your car judged just to learn more about it even if you're not "going for" a flight award.... yet... That's how I got hooked anyways. ~Juliet2019 Sebring Orange 8-Spd Coupe (daily driver & autocross) 6k mi.
1970 Bridgehampton Blue Convertible - Chapter Top Flight 2005 68k mi.
1965 Coupe (Greg's project No Flight)
Gone but not forgotten:
1987 Yellow Convertible 199k mi.
2002 Yellow Convertible 100k mi.
2007 Atomic Orange Coupe 140k mi. RIP flood 2015
2007 Lemans Blue 6-Spd Coupe 34k mi.Comment
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Re: Engine Stamp Lettering Size
And if you don't see any fine lines on the pad, rejoyce and be happy!
Varooom!Comment
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P.S.
If you see what appears to be the scratches of a belt sander, don't rejoyce!
Varooom!Comment
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Re: Engine ID
Use a magnifying glass and strong light. Don't see lines? I'd begin to worry. Ask a numbers judge to look at your pad. Al Grenning, Chuck Berge or Ray Morrison specialize in pad judging however any of the more experienced old timers in NCRS should be able to render a valid opinion.
Varooom!Comment
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Re: Engine Stamp Lettering Size
After a few Beefeaters not only do the lines disappear, but the entire pad as well. The general outline of the engine usually remains perceptable however!
Varooom!Comment
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Re: Engine Stamp Lettering Size
My 70's engine pad show one last surviving line (after engine rebuild in your country I suspect), so I take care of her every day, clean the line, protect borders of the line and so on...
All best from Argentina, Roberto, NCRS #30019, RMCComment
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Re: P.S.
I've got this derelict old 67 that has beautiful broach marks, the numbers are all wrong but it has nice broach marks!
Dave #1624David DawdyComment
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