#4 body mount bolt reinforcement - NCRS Discussion Boards

#4 body mount bolt reinforcement

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  • Dwayne Grant

    #4 body mount bolt reinforcement

    While I have the gas tank out of my 69 L36 I was doing some detail/cleaning in the rear area of the car and noticed that the drivers side reinforcement plate that attaches the #4 body bolt to the car is extremely rusted. It is basically flaking apart on the back side. It looks like the piece is attached with rivets. Couple of questions: (1) is this reinforecment plate readily available from various suppliers?; 2)is it attached with alumimum rivets which I could replace myself, or are they something harder than that (steel?) and will require me to have this done at a shop?; and finally (3) provided I can do this myself, any tips on the best way to do this is much appreciated. I saw the recent postings on how to tackle alumimum rivets and am willing to give it a shot. Plus, I was a "rivet-bucker" at Blue Bird Bus factory one summer during college - one of the hardest jobs I ever had, and ensured that I went back to college in the fall just to get a break!
  • Harmon C.
    Extremely Frequent Poster
    • August 31, 1994
    • 3228

    #2
    Re: #4 body mount bolt reinforcement

    This job takes some time to get the bolt out and rivet the new part in place. The part is easy to find but to do the job with the body on will take time. I would guess a shop would charge 4-8 hours labor to do one side. Maybe someone has a trick to do the job faster. You will need a new caged nut the bolt one spacer and the #4 body mount reinforcement. Their are thousands of C-3's with this part rusted off on the road and is a good place to inspect when looking to buy a C-3.
    Lyle
    Lyle

    Comment

    • Steve Wallach

      #3
      Re: #4 body mount bolt reinforcement

      Hi Dwayne,

      Yes, this support is readily available from most suppliers.
      Yes, the rivets are Aluminum.

      The hard part is room and access with the body on, however it can be done, just procede slowly and carefully.

      Removing the old plate will require taking off as much as possible around that area for access. You can drill the rives or use a intake chisel scraper. (flat, wide blade chisel) Use a ball peen hammer and cut the rivets between the plate and body, but BE CAREFUL.

      The plate will come off provided you have removed the bolt, washers, etc.
      If this is a convertible, it will be a bit easier, but you will need access to the insdie and out side of the car to re rivet the new plat in place.
      Again, BE CAREFUL as you will need to have the car jacked up to gain access, so support it VERY WELL.
      The riveting will take place on the outside of the car, with the flat head of the rivets being on the inside of the car.

      Good Luck,

      Steve

      Comment

      • Steve Wallach

        #4
        Re: #4 body mount bolt reinforcement

        Yes, it is a weekend job (at least).

        I replaced the #4 bolts and bushings on my 67, and that was bad enough.

        I have replaced these plates on my L71 68 Coupe, but I am doing a full body off, and had easy access, which made this very easy.

        Steve

        Comment

        • Timothy B.
          Extremely Frequent Poster
          • April 30, 1983
          • 5181

          #5
          Re: #4 body mount bolt reinforcement

          Dwayne,

          This may or may not help but if you lift the car and support the frame in the area just underneith the door at the rear, the frame will sag and pull away from the rear mount (after the bolt is removed) and allow room for you to work at the #4 mount. Remember during reassembly, don't fill that gap with shims until you put the tire on and place the car weight back on suspension. At that point you can eliminate space or make adjustment to door gap with shims.

          I would think the first hurdle is the bolt then trying to set the rivets. May be better to use pop rivets.

          Comment

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