63 SWC sebring sil;ver paint

[Rainer S.]

I just delivered my 63 SWC to another painter for repaint, after having had a disasterous paint job done by a highly recomended painter, who did just about everything wrong on the initial paint job.(dirt, paint flakes all over the car, nicks and small holes not fixed before paint,body filler not sanded properly, blotchy paint, not being painted in a down-draft paint booth, black-out not done.I can go on-and-on...)
When I comissioned the car to him, I stated, that I wanted it painted Sebring Silver,base coat-clearcoat, in a paint booth, and gave him the paint code off the tag. I was leaning toward PPG paint. He suggested Dupond and I agreed.
He used Dupond Chromabase BC, code 33, GM 1981 corvette, silver-effect. He claims, it was the closest match. He did not consult with me before he decided to use this color code.
The car will be painted at a Ford dealership paint facility, in a state of the art downdraft paint booth, by a painter, who will do all the prep work himself. (Hope I did my homework this time...)
Her is my question:
What paint code should I use ? (My new painter also suggests to use Dupond paint, he is planning to computer match the paint per orig paint chip, available thru Dupond, with consultation with Dupond Rep).
If there is anybody, who has painted his car Sebring silver and it turned out to be a good match with the original 63 Sebring silver laquer metallic, I would like to know. I realize, that to match old metallics with new paint systems, is a challange, since todays modern paints use different pigments etc.
Should I stay away from Dupond, or is there a good Dupond match ?
Sorry for the lenghty post, but I need serious help from paint experts.

Which paint do you recomend to use ?

Rainer

[Chuck W.]

Re: 63 SWC sebring sil;ver paint

I too have a Sebring Silver '63 SWC. Mine still bears the original paint however so I don't have a cross match to b/c. Have your paint rep or painter submit to you proposed paint spray-outs and check the color panels against an original panel. Seems like one of the most often overlooked detail is the size and amount of metallic in the mixture. Do several iterations to get the exact match that you want. Sebring Silver is especially vulnerable to streaking and blotching so a wet, even, edge is very important. I also recommend painting the hood and doors on the car to keep panel match integrity. Silver is tough but it can be done. Good luck.

[Dick W.]

Re: 63 SWC sebring sil;ver paint

Rainer, I think that, in most cases, the skill of the painter and the jobber mixing the color is the most important thing. DuPont, PPG, Sikkens, etc are all quality products. There may be rare instances that one will have a closer match than other. As long as the test panels match you should be ok

[Loren L.]

Re: 63 SWC sebring sil;ver paint

First realize that you cannot duplicate Sebring Silver because no one
has/can get the very large aluminum flake that was originally in the color.
Having said that, I went downstairs and recovered my leftover paint for my Sebring Silver roadster from 1986. The softop deck lid underside and the door jambs had never been repainted/messed with - when the rest of the
got painted, it matched beautifully. Perhaps I should add that it received no deductions for paint at the Reno National.
The label on the can is Duracryl and gives the PPG # DDL32312.

[Eric J.]

Your paint is beautiful

Loren, Hope all is well. When I parked my SW next to yours at Christown you shamed me with that FI and paint! My Sebring looks like it came from a differnt can, a spray can! Eric

[Rainer S.]

Re: Your paint is beautiful

Thank you , everyone for such good advise.
I also agree with Chuck, that doors, hood, light buckets and rear panel should be in place (as done at the factory), when painting.
My first painter didn't do that (against my request). The doors did not match the roof where they meet and other mismatches.
I like the idea of spray-outs as a final step.
The PPG DDL 32312 Loren mentioned sounds familiar. I will get a quart and have my painter do a spray-out, along with what the Dupond equivalent would be.
I realize, that it is impossible to duplicate the old paint, but one should come close as Loren did.
Thanks again. Will keep you posted...

Rainer

[Denny J.]

Re: 63 SWC sebring sil;ver paint

I have the paint code from the factory no guess work PPG I CAN FAX TO YOU

[Jean C.]

Re: 63 SWC sebring sil;ver paint

Denny, experience says that having a 40+ year old paint code for an original paint color is not the answer, you need to for sure also spray test panels and do a match to known original paint.
Best regards,
Charlie

[Boyan B.]

Re: 63 SWC sebring sil;ver paint

Rainer, if you are applying a basecoat / clearcoat system, it is easy to have your painter add some flattening agent to the clear when he shoots the doorjambs, hood gutter and other areas that were not originally buffed. That way it saves you time trying to dull them down later.

Boyan.

[Denny J.]

Re: 63 SWC sebring sil;ver paint

I just thought the paint code is better than a computer match.and I agree with the spray match

[Chuck W.]

Re: 63 SWC sebring sil;ver paint

The other option for door jams, rain gutters, etc. is to add hardner to the base coat and spray the areas desired. Do not clear over them. The hardner renders the base irreversible and without the clear it is a natural mat finish. The real trick is controlling the clear blow through into these area when spraying the body itself. Masking leaves a sharp edge and being too aggressive shoots clear into the jams. A light touch is the answer.