Does any one repro an original C2 ballast resistor, i.e., duplicating the shear tang on the bracket?
Best regards,
Dave K.
Best regards,
Dave K.
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Re: C2 SB Ballast REsistor
Nobody does it 'right' using correct Delco tooling for the ceramic & mounting band... What's available from catalog houses today are from the current GM Licensee who's using GM Service Spare tooling vs. the several variations of the part that were used in factory production over the years. -
Re: C2 SB Ballast REsistor
David, Ask our mutual friend for one. Here's one he and I are doing. slicing the back of the bracket with a dremel wheel. Then getting the part plated. Using new guts from a NOS Delco replacement. Then Barry is spot welding the thing back together. Sounds harder than it really is. My 63 has a NOS one with the shear and the judges were impressed. Lots of cars at the regional in Boston were missing them. Even if you buy the wrong one as far as ohms resistance you can still use it to "make" the right one. Remember that the 62 down one is not the same as far as configuration goes. Let's talk about it at the meeting on Tuesday. JohnComment
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Re: C2 SB Ballast REsistor *NM*
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Re: C2 SB Ballast REsistor
Roy, Nice pic of a ballast resistor but I don't believe it is for a C2. Maybe it's the photo only. The C2 has a "ventilated" area where the clamp hugs the porcelain. Refer to the common GM replacments for a better idea. Your BR looks like the earlier style from a C1. It's definitely not a 63. JohnComment
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Re: C2 SB Ballast REsistor
There is a distinct and very noticeable difference bewteen a die cut edge and one made with a grinder. Anyone with any kind of backround in Tool and Die work could tell immediately. Of course, they need to know to look for it in the first place.Comment
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Early version...
Note the ceramic has two 'trenches' that extend from the center top of the ceramic into the recesses where the screw terminals are. The trenches stop at this point and do NOT extend to the outer ends of the top surface of the ceramic.
This dates the part as roughly pre-58. Later versions of the ballast resistor changed to extend the trough all the way to the outer ends. Why?
The early version of the ballast used metal inserts for the screw terminals that were crimped into the ceramic using a single crimp ear. The crimp ear folded down into the 'trench' or 'notch' to hold it flush to the ceramic and the underlying nichrome resistor winding.
Later versions (circa 1958) 'improved' the design with a 2-ear screw insert. Hence, the 'trench' had to extend through and across the screw terminal area so that both tabs on the insert could be crimped down. The later design provided security (if one crimp tab broke there was a 'backup' in the second tab 180 degrees opposite) to safeguard against the insert simply 'spinning' when you tighted down the ignition wires beneath the terminal screw(s).
Like I said, there were several versions of the ballast resistor over time and NOBODY makes a complete/correct reproduction part selection. I suspect this is because the original ceramic molds for the early version of the resistor were retired LONG ago and the current GM licensee failed to research to part's revision history and obtain the correct tooling to faithfully make the various revision(s) of the part...Comment
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Re: C2 SB Ballast REsistor
your right a early C1 just showing the tab cutComment
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Re: C2 SB Ballast REsistor
I believe the "tab" or "tang" that you refer to was present on most early C2 ballast resistors, but it did not appear on most 67 ballast resistors. I researched this about a year ago and you should be able to find the discussion in the archives.
So, depending on which year your C2 is, you may not need the "tab."Comment
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Re: C2 SB Ballast REsistor
Joe,
Car is a 1966 327/300 hp with car build date of 12/20/65.
Dave K.Comment
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Re: C2 SB Ballast REsistor
Hi Dave:
The thread from my posting on the Tech Board had the title, "Should all C2 ballast resistors have a "tab"? If you search the archives using the search terms "randolph" and "ballast" (select the search option that requires all terms), it should come right up.
Since my question was about my 67, most of the respondents had 67s. One 66 owner also chimed in, reporting that his ballast resistor had no tab.
You may want to do some more research and possibly talk with the 66 Team Leader to help decide whether your 66 ballast resistor should have the tab.
For my restoration, I installed a NOS service replacement ballast resistor that appears to be exactly identical to my original. These show up on ebay and at Carlisle.
I have heard that the Paragon reproduction is pretty close, but I have never inspected one closely.Comment
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