I too am having a driveline vibration(at least I don't think it is a front end alignment problem). It is a cyclical vibration about every second. I have had the drive shaft balanced and the vibe is still there although not quite as much. Any ideas as to what I might check next? The engine was balanced when rebuilt. I am going to have the front end aligned anyway so we will see what that does. It does sling a bit of grease from the pinion seal.....could that be it? It is getting replaced so we will see what that does. Any and all suggestions will be greatly appreciated. Thanks.
C1 Vibration
Collapse
X
-
Re: C1 Vibration - Feel it in the Steering Column
or in the bottom of the seat. If it's in the column, then it's something up front. If in the bottom of the seat, it's something in the rear. Could be as simple as rear tires out of balace. Good luck, Gary....NCRS Texas Chapter
https://www.ncrstexas.org/
https://www.facebook.com/profile.php?id=61565408483631- Top
-
Re: C1 Vibration
Steve,
Take note of what RPM the vibration happens.
When driving at speed where the vibration occurs push in the clutch and let the engine idle and see if the vibration still happens. Again, when at a different speed, push in the clutch and bring the engine to the noted RPM and see if the vibration occurs.
Did you have the flywheel and clutch balanced? Flywheel first to zero balance, then pressure plate mounted on the flywheel.
Verle- Top
Comment
-
Re: C1 Vibration
I agree with Mike, however if your pinion nut has backed off that will cause it to wear the seal out and throw lube and also can cause a hellacious vibration in the assembly - especially when slowing down (against the engine compression). A long shot but because you mentioned the lube being thrown, it is something to check.
Dave B.Dave, 1969 427, 1957
Previous: 1968 427, 1973 454- Top
Comment
-
The ususal suspects...
may have the company of a stranger! When you've rounded up the usual suspects others are giving you good/solid advice on and you think you've exhausted all the possibilities, here's one of LAST RESORT.
If a car's wheels are out of true (she's been 'curbed' pretty good in the past), you can have a situation where all the wheel balance in the world doesn't fix the problem. To compound matters, having out of round wheels trued can result in no improvement. Why?
If the tires have taken a 'set' (tread wear from prior squirming or hopping), short of shaving the tread (NOT recommended) they can continue to give unwanted road vibration. So, a last thing to put on the check list is the trueness of your wheels and if they're out of round, the tires may need to be replaced as well...- Top
Comment
-
Re: The ususal suspects...
It may be too late for this response, but here goes anyway: There was an apparently unique feature to the geometry of the 59 transmission tailshaft to the pinion angle, which creates a more severe angularity to the driveline and the U-joints. Refer to Noland Adams'restoration guide. You could spend a lot of time and money trying to trouble-shoot this problem via trial and error. Have a competent suspension/alignment guy check that the transmission tailshaft and pinion are parallel (though not in-line). If they are not, wedge shims are necessary between the rear axle and the leaf springs to correct the angle. This (finally) worked for me. Good luck.
Eric.- Top
Comment
-
Re: The ususal suspects...
In addition, you can swap the front/rear tires to rule out a tire balance, or out of round issue. The vibration is likely the cause of the oil slinging rather than vice-versa. Reference Noland's book on page 227, and pay particular attention to the disconnection of the radius rods prior to correcting the pinion angle. On my car, I had to lengthen the radius rods almost an inch as not to pull the rear axle forward and down, thus causing a more severe rotational angle of the U-joints. Good Luck Again!!!!- Top
Comment
Comment