GM licensed reproduction chasis & frame paint

[Jack J.]

Does anyone have any experience/opinions regarding Part#1050104 Satin
Black reconditioning paint? Supposedly does not require primer, just shoot it directly onto a clean frame. My frame has been repaired,acid dipped and e-coated{Black} but needs a good coat of paint. I guess it only comes in a gallon container. Just how much would be needed? Thanks in advance.

[Wayne P.]

Re: GM licensed reproduction chasis & frame paint

It's thin as water. Normaly doesn't need thinning. It goes a long way. A better job can be obtained by using over primer.

[Chuck S.]

Re: GM licensed reproduction chasis & frame paint

Yep...IMO, use 1050104 only for the genuine, real-deal finish on original black-primered chassis parts, and then preferably only on top of a good modern primer.

I'm not a mid-year guy, but I've heard PPG black epoxy primer is a good match for mid-year frame gloss. The current version is DPLF-90...you used to get the best gloss match with the fast catalyst, now DPLF-402 (also doesn't require the 30 minute induction).

I believe the mix ratio is 2 parts DPLF-90 to 1 part DPLF-402...a quart of DPLF-90 will give you 1.5 quarts ready to spray. Personally, I would just buy a gallon and keep the surplus around...it's an excellent primer for all restoration work.

BTW, the e-cote I've tried to work with was a beach to prep sand/scuff.

[Jack J.]

Re: GM licensed reproduction chasis & frame paint

Chuck, I wasn't planning on prepping (sand/scuff) the Black E-cote fininsh on the frame. Correct me if I'm wrong, but I was assuming I could just primer/paint right over it and get a durable and corrct finish/gloss. That's why, though the 1050104 is as thin as water, I wouldn't need a primer over E-cote. I have even considered applying the asphaltic coating from Quanta for the real restoration finish on a 64. HELP!

[Chuck S.]

Re: GM licensed reproduction chasis & frame paint

While DPLF-90 is a primer, it's epoxy...it dries hard, slick, and satin black. It can be used as a top coat when the gloss is suitable. Now that you mention the asphaltic coating, what I heard could only be applicable to late C2s, maybe 67s...or, maybe I'm just confused and need to stay out of these C2 threads.

I have never heard of not prepping before paint if you want it to stay...I think you will only be able to get away with that long term by using an etching primer, and that is certainly not the product you want. An epoxy might work without prep...DPLF adhesion is legendary, but PPG won't tell you it'll work without prep.

[Scott Marzahl]

Re: GM licensed reproduction chasis & frame paint

The GM paint is nice an easy to shoot right out of the can. I shot it directly over the existing paint in the engine bay after I cleaned and scuffed it. I can not comment on the E coat system you have. For metal parts, I shoot it on top of either DP90 or Glasurit epoxy primer. Speaking of DP90, being a primer I don't believe it has any UV protection and it may fade or chalk with time. When I shot my '67s frame with it, PPG said it needed to be top coated so I shot several flattened top coats of Deltron on it.