C2:67 ConvTop - Coming Along - NCRS Discussion Boards

C2:67 ConvTop - Coming Along

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  • Gerard F.
    Extremely Frequent Poster
    • June 30, 2004
    • 3805

    C2:67 ConvTop - Coming Along

    Got the wire-on on, and I didn't like the wire-on sidepiece with galvanized screws which came with this kit (16 years ago). So I buffed up my original sidepieces and screws, and reused them.

    Think I got the lower sidefit problem resolved. I went from this:


    To this:


    To do this I had to rework the weatherstrip into the rear bow for about 6 inches back. Trimmed the flap and hold-in cord on the top about an inch, to 1/8" past the end of the rear bow. And actually glued the flap to the bottom of the rear bow. When I stretch the flap around the back of the side window frame, I think it will straighten out the bead along the bottom.

    Thanks Wayne, for the tips.

    Tomorrow is the big stretch forward to the front header, and the side window frame. Got it sitting under a heat lamp in the garage.

    But I think I'm going to vary from the video and do the stretch to the side windows first, before the stretch to the front header. Seems to me that I would get a better fit, by working it from the rear to the front.

    Any advice?

    Slow but having fun,

    Jerry Fuccillo
    #42179
    Attached Files
    Jerry Fuccillo
    1967 327/300 Convertible since 1968
  • Barbara S.
    Very Frequent User
    • April 30, 1981
    • 599

    #2
    Re: C2:67 ConvTop - Coming Along

    Nice work, Jerry.

    Comment

    • Joe C.
      Expired
      • August 31, 1999
      • 4598

      #3
      Are You Having Fun Yet?

      Hi Jerry,

      Your first mistake was using the video! I've never looked at the video, and never had any problems. Usually a 4-5 hour job.

      Could it be that big Al throws a few spitballs in the video? Only kidding Jerry, Al. I understand that it is actually an excellent video (for the technically challenged).

      Joe

      PS: If you have ANY wrinkles in the rear window, then use a smakll, portable kerosene heater, or heat gun to CAREFULLY AND UNIFORMLY heat the clear plastic, this will relax any creases and make it perfectly flat.

      Comment

      • Gerard F.
        Extremely Frequent Poster
        • June 30, 2004
        • 3805

        #4
        Re: Are You Having Fun Yet?

        Joe,

        Do you do the side windows first, before the front header stretch? Seems to me that I'd get a better job. Got it heating up in the garage and should wrap things up this afternoon.

        Always having fun.

        Jerry Fuccillo
        #42179
        Jerry Fuccillo
        1967 327/300 Convertible since 1968

        Comment

        • Dale S.
          Expired
          • November 12, 2007
          • 1224

          #5
          Re: Are You Having Fun Yet?

          Jerry, Looks great! I paid a ton for the professional top and installation on my wifes Mustang and it did not look 1/2 that good. Dale

          Comment

          • Joe C.
            Expired
            • August 31, 1999
            • 4598

            #6
            Re: Are You Having Fun Yet?

            Jerry,

            It's been a few years since I've done one, BUT you'd be surprised at how much stretch you'll get with the juduicious use of heat. I assume that it's still rather warm in your neighborhood, but a small "torpedo" kerosine heater delivers tons of heat to help stretch things. I can say, that if the top is correctly installed, that it will be so tight at first, as to make the rear deck pins and/or the header latches very, very hard to engage. It will stretch sufficiently after a couple weeks, to facilitate latching the top fully.

            The more important things, are to first properly align your top frame, and (hopefully new) weatherstripping to achieve tight seals, all around, with full closure. Once that is done, pay close attention to get the proper overhang and dimensional alignment of both inner pads. Once that is done, you're home free. Now stretch the top to "drumhead" tightness. Rear bow first, then header bow, finally side windows. You should be able to bounce a quarter off of it if it's done right. You should also be able to point a solid stream of water across most of the weatherstrips with no leakage.

            Joe

            Comment

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