C2:67 ConvTop How do I get this gap out

[Gerard F.]

Do you see the gap betweew the driver side windshield trim amd the wing window trim in the picture below? It is excessive and I got dinged on it. Is this a door adjustment or a wing window adjustment?

As an update of my convewrtible top project:

Got the frame disassembled and painted last week. Re-assembled the frame on the car today and had a heck of a time getting every thing adjusted to the side window frames. Finally consulted the 67 AIM and I think I now have it by the book.


They used a .46" shim at the top of the window to the frame, and there are two adjustments of the frame to the side window. One along the side columns supporting the frame, and one at the adjustment of the front header.

So I found a piece of trim which measures 30/64" and made myself 4 shim pieces.
Also a 1/4" piece to simulate the front weatherstrip. Then loosened all the bolts on the side, and the screws for the front header, shimmed everything in position and then tightened.

Think I got it, but I'd like to resolve the gap problem before I put the pads on tomorrow.

Jerry Fuccillo
#42179

[Tracy C.]

Re: C2:67 ConvTop How do I get this gap out

Jerry,

The front header bow is intended to be somewhat adjustable. After proper fitment, a small hole is drilled through the rear flat portion of the front header and the reciever plate on the frame in the location near where it bolts together. A small screw is then plate into this hole to help prevent movement over time.

I assume you just put the screw back through the same spot when you reassembled the frame. Or maybe you didn't take the front header off so the screw is still there.

Remove the small screw (#8 or #10 size), loosen the bolts attaching the front header bow, and then slide the header bow back to close up the gap. This should also snug the weatherstriping up tight against your windshield trim.

good luck,
tc

[Gerard F.]

Is the Wing Window adjustible forward and

aft? I think I've got the forward and aft of the convertible frame header just right with the use of the shims. But I'm concerned about the fit of the wing window against the windshield trim.

On the passenger side the gap is only about an 1/8". On the driver side (in the photos above) the gap between the wing window and the windshield trim is about 1/4". Got a feeling that I need to address this gap before I put the top on.

Was wondering if anybody has made this adjustment, and how easy is it to do?

Jerry Fuccillo
#42179

[Steve Vaughan]

Re: C2:67 ConvTop How do I get this gap out

If I understand your situation correctly, you are concerned about the vent window to windsheild pillar gap. If so I believe you are correct in wanting to make this adjustment before setting the conv frame adjustments. On mine I set the vent position prior to installing the conv frame. The adjustment of the vent position interacts with the window adjustments which interact with the conv frame. I referred to the AIM for the adjustment dimensions(vent to winsheild pillar). To adjust the vent window position (and hence the gap to windsheild pillar both fore aft and up down) remove the door panel and losen the vent frame attachment fastners (4 of em I think)and moving the vent window forward. This adjustment will require readjustment of the rear window track and possibly to window up stops. These adjustments will affect the location of the door window and hence affect the fit with conv frame. One last discovery I made in making the frame adjustments is the amount of "play" in the frame pivots will also make the top frame adjustment change when you put tension on the frame with the pads and straps installed, which may require additional frame adjustment before installing the top fabric.

Good luck with the install.

[Gerard F.]

Re: C2:67 ConvTop Got part of it out

Steve,

Thanks for the advice. I had figured it out from the Service Manual. So this morning I pulled the door panel and tried the vent window adjustment. After about 21/2 hours of playing with it, I got as much out of the gap as I'm going to get.

I think I really do have a slight door sag problem as the driver side is still not as perfect as the passenger side. But another project to address on another day. One thing I found was that the door panel was stamped June 22, 1967, not bad for a June 29 car.

Spent the rest of the day putting the pads and straps on. About the time I was ready to put the top on, it got too late. The picture is where I left off with both sides done. Guess I'll have to finish it on another day, didn't realize how long this would take. Glad I'm not doing this for money.

Also, Wayne, I found the little screws and holes. Amazing that after the shim adjustment, the holes were back in what I think were the original positions and locked the position of the header to the frame.

Having fun, after a trying day,

Jerry Fuccillo
#42179

[Art A.]

Re: C2:67 ConvTop Got part of it out

Jerry did you replace the brass bushings in the door hinges?

[Gerard F.]

No, but probably a project for another day

Art,

How big a job is that? The door hinges have never been touched. If you look at the picture, you'll see that the door fit to the body at the back of the door is about 1/8" down. At the front of the door at the top, the gap to the fender section is about 3/8" of an inch. I guess 39 years of opening the drivers side door has taken its toll. (The passenger side door is a perfect fit).

Do you think changing the bushings will solve this problem?

Jerry Fuccillo
#42179

[Joe R.]

Re: C2:67 ConvTop Got part of it out

Hi Jerry:

Regarding the suspected door sag, you need need to check both the hinge bushing and the internal plate to which the hinges mount. This plate, which is inside the door, is secured to the fiberglass with a bunch of soft rivets. I've heard that over time the rivets can get loose.

The way to check this stuff is to open the door and have an assistant gently try to move the back end of the door up and down. While your assistant is doing this, examine the hinges and hinge mountings for relative movement.

[Gerard F.]

Re: C2:67 ConvTop How do I get this gap out

Tracy,

I didn't realize what a complicated job this is. One thing leads to another. But I did save the screws I took out when I dissassembled the front header from the frame. After adjusting with the shims on the top and back of the window, the holes seem to wind up back in same position.

But now that I've adjusted the vent window and have the pads on, I think I'll have to make one more adjustment of the front header.

Jerry Fuccillo

[Art A.]

Re: No, but probably a project for another day

Jerry, It's not that big of a job, but you will never be able to adjust the doors correctly if the bushings are worn. The bushings were shipped as part of the hinge assembly, so they are not called out in the AIM. I'm not sure if any of the vedors are supplying them, but I would find some before I disassembled the doors.Their are two for each hinge, total of 8 for both doors. And as someone else suggested, check the attaching rivets while you are in there.

Art

[Dick W.]

Re: No, but probably a project for another day

Most catalog vendors will list the hinge pins and bushings. They are also available at most professional auto parts stores. Rather inexpensive.

[Dave Suesz]

I love the times the top-makers

give you to expect it to take. 5, 7, 9.5, etc. That must be if the top frame is in perfect condition, the pads are perfect, and the tacking strips are like new. Oh yeah, if you have a lot of practice. I tried my hand a couple years ago on a 71 top, and it came out very nicely, if I do say so. Between repairing nicks on the rear bow from a previous replacement, replacing all the tacking strips, all new weatherstrip, and oh yeah, new pads. Took me 21 hours, 3 times what the supplier said it should take.

[Gerard F.]

You sure have it right, Dave

It always takes a lot longer then you think. I'm three weekends into this but among the honeydo's and other chores, it is about only 3 days. Took the frame completely out,disassembled it, wire brushed the rusty spots to bare metal, repainted to perfection, new tack strips, reassembled, measured it up exactly, installed pads. Then other things pop up.

Looks like I'll head for the Tahoe meet next weekend with the hardtop on and the restored frame in the back.

Don't want to rush the new top install. Afterall, it is only a labor of love.

But having fun,

Jerry Fuccillo
#42179