Inner hood bonding - NCRS Discussion Boards

Inner hood bonding

Collapse
X
 
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts
  • Rob M.
    Very Frequent User
    • June 30, 1999
    • 171

    Inner hood bonding

    I have a new inner hood from Corvette Images and plan to bond it to the original outer skin ('65 BB). Any advise on how to best accomplish this? Should the bonding be around the outside or on all contact surfaces? Thanks for your help. Rob
    My Project Pictures
    http://temp.corvetteforum.net/classics/l78vetteman/
  • Robert C.
    Expired
    • December 1, 1993
    • 1153

    #2
    Re: Inner hood bonding

    I would bond all the surfaces as my 65 hood is starting to de-laminate.


    Texas Chapter NCRS

    Comment

    • Bob Dransman

      #3
      Re: Inner hood bonding

      Rob,

      If you don't bond the hood at all contact areas it will be "flimsy". Also, be sure you have the right curvature, or the sides of the hood will not be even with the fender lines. (I.e., When you set the height at the hinges and latches, the hood could be high or low at the centerpoint of the side).

      Good Luck,

      Bob D.

      Comment

      • John Fowler

        #4
        Re: Inner hood bonding

        Bob,

        Any hints on the re-laminating process, my 67 is also starting to separate from the inner supporting frame.

        John #2238

        Comment

        • Robert C.
          Expired
          • December 1, 1993
          • 1153

          #5
          Re: Inner hood bonding (Joe L.please)

          John, There is a special bonding agent/cement that is used for this purpose. I don't know what it's called, but I do know that if you don't use the correct stuff, it will de-laminate again very quickly. Maybe Joe Lucia can help us ...


          Texas Chapter NCRS

          Comment

          • Paul Y.
            Very Frequent User
            • September 30, 1982
            • 570

            #6
            Re: Inner hood bonding

            Rob, The inner portion of the hood needs to be fit to the car. Protect the engine compartment with some plastic sheets or similar protection as the bonding material will sqeeze out and drip onto the wrong things and stick. I use a bonding material by evercoat. There is one for the early ones and one for the later plastic type fiberglas. I can get the part number if you need it. Grind the surfaces to be mated with 80 grit on a small grinder. Look for all the areas that the factory bonded the original hood if you can. Fit the hood dry with some of the protective plastic covering the front clip and fender edges. Grind more off if need be to get the surface height to match the fenders and front of the clip. If it gets too low you can always shim with a piece of fiberglas scrap. Be sure to get lots of weight to put on the hood to hold it down and do a trial run putting the weight on. Be real organized when you mix the bonding material as it has a very short life before it hardens. Good luck and E-mail me if you need any other questions answered. To the other questions regarding hood delaminate just pry open the unbonded area and grind with a small 80 grit on both sides of surface to be bonded and mix bonding material, slap it in there and pull out the pry bar. It should hold well if you use the evercoat product. Paul Young
            It's a good life!














            Comment

            • kenrobb

              #7
              Re: Inner hood bonding

              My 65 hood inner liner broke loose a few years ago. I took the hood off the car, used scrapper to dig out all the old broke loose bonding stuff. I turned the hood upside down on rug in basement, using foam to level it up and support. I used old wooden wedges to get some space between the surfaces. I had some 100% solids epoxy that we use at work for steel tank leak stoppage. I mixed it up, used a heavy paper to make an aplcator like they use in cake decorating to squeeze out the epoxy into the space. I then used plastic wrap to lay over the seam to prevent the epoxy from running all over the place (held in place with packing tape). Took out the wedges as I went. This hood will not come apart! But feel that Eckler's ahs some better stuff that would be easier to use. They ahve some stuff for bonding strips, restoration formula panel bonding adhesive on page 156 of catolog I have. think method would still work. Ken

              Comment

              • kenrobb

                #8
                Re: Inner hood bonding

                I used gallon milk jugs filled with wet sand to place on the upside down hood on the floor to squeeze the sections together while the epoxy cured. You need something to hold two sections tightly together.

                Comment

                • Wayne W.
                  Extremely Frequent Poster
                  • April 30, 1982
                  • 3605

                  #9
                  Re: Inner hood bonding

                  I think the question was if the support was bonded on all surfaces. The answer is no if you want to be correct. The hood skin is bonded only on the outer edges. The inner surfaces have a material that never gets hard. You will see the difference when you remove the old skin. On the crossing supports you will see little square pads where daubs of this material goes.

                  Comment

                  Working...
                  Searching...Please wait.
                  An unexpected error was returned: 'Your submission could not be processed because you have logged in since the previous page was loaded.

                  Please push the back button and reload the previous window.'
                  An unexpected error was returned: 'Your submission could not be processed because the token has expired.

                  Please push the back button and reload the previous window.'
                  An internal error has occurred and the module cannot be displayed.
                  There are no results that meet this criteria.
                  Search Result for "|||"