C2 original rusty frozen exhaust removal...

[Jim V.]

Some exhaust issues where I need some sage advice....

First, I suspect most of my 1965 underbody exhaust is original, or at least period correct. The long pipes running behind the trans crossmember are rectangular and show ridges where the pipe bends. I have included a not-so-clear photo showing such a bend and the associated parallel ridges. Can anybody confirm that these are original?

Secondly, if in fact they are original I obviously would like to remove them without slicing them up. Besides large quantities of PB plaster is there any sage advice on separating the pipes at the trans xmember junction?

Thirdly, if it comes to replacement please comment on quality replacement options.

Thanks

[Joe L.]

Re: C2 original rusty frozen exhaust removal...

Jim------

The pipes look to be original. If the pipes are welded at the mufflers, they are original. If they have been shortened and a replacement muffler with slip joint installed, as is likely the case, then they cannot be returned to completely original configuration.

These pipes appear to have suffered very significant corrosion damage, which is not unusual, at all, if they are original. I don't know if they're worth saving, especially if they have been shortened for replacement mufflers. By applying heat from a torch, you MAY be able to seperate them at the cross-member slip joint. If not, I don't think you'll be able to do it without destroying them.

Exhaust pipes DO "wear out"; that may well be the case here.

[Jim V.]

Joe...your dead on....again...

Exactly....replacement mufflers were added at some point. The curious thing is the black out paint on the replacement muffler....

I so dislike trashing functional original stuff...restored cars are all you see these days. Although they look pretty rusty....they are amazingly solid. The passenger side is pretty thinned out at the exhaust manifold donut flange however.

Thanks!

[Lyle24961]

Re: Joe...your dead on....again...

Jim
With a real torch you can heat the outer pipe red hot and I have had good luck getting them apart. A small propane tank won't get the job done. If they are too thin they will become junk but you need to know.You could save the bends for show and tell.

Lyle

[Gary S.]

Re: C2 original rusty frozen exhaust removal...

In addition to the heat method as suggested by Joe and others, one of the vendors (maybe Ecklers?) sells a device that is clamped on both sides of an exhaust pipe joint. You then turn two traveling nuts which drive the pipes apart at the joint. I believe it comes in both 2" and 2.5" sizes for both types of pipes.

Gary

[Terry F.]

Re: C2 original rusty frozen exhaust removal...

They don't look over clamped. I would get everything out of the way that will get banged on when you try to remove them. I suspect that soaking them will help get them apart and I would try that first before using a torch. Someone suggested that tool from Eckler's. That sounds like a good idea.

Your pipes are in there golden years. If you choose to heat them with a torch you will need to be carefull. Don't heat them untill they are red hot because it will deteriorate the steel (what is left of it). It has already changed markedly with rust and heating with a torch will just sort of speed that up and push it over the edge. Plus, you run the risk of catching your car on fire. If you do use a torch, use a small tip and don't heat the steel untill it is red hot. I would only use a small tip torch because it would be efficient at heating and keep the heat in a small area. But you will have to be careful because it will want to get hot very fast.

I would use any method but a torch to get them apart. I would keep them as artifacts unless you found anouther original set that are nicer.

I think you can get them apart without the torch. Just need to make some wiggle room for yourself so as not to bang everything up.

Take care, Terry

[Dennis M.]

Re: C2 original rusty frozen exhaust removal...

I had a stuck piston several years ago and I soaked it with vinger and that seem to work well. When I poured in into the cylinder I could hear it attaching the rusty area. Nothing to loose the smell should go away after a little heat from the exhaust.

[John H.]

Re: C2 original rusty frozen exhaust removal...

I have one of the exhaust pipe separator tools mentioned above, and it doesn't work anywhere near as well as they advertise - doesn't grip the pipes tightly enough; might work better in combination with heat, however.

[Joe L.]

Re: C2 original rusty frozen exhaust removal...

John------

Plus, I think that with tools of this type, if one tightly clamps the pipe and the pipe is "thin" due to external corrosion and/or internal erosion, the pipe will likely collapse.