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start up after long term storage

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  • daniel mcdougal

    start up after long term storage

    I have recently purchased a 1971 convertible that has been in storage for 16 years. The car was not properly prepared for storage prior to this taking place. It still has old gas in the tank. The oil and coolant appear to be clean. I realize that I'm in for many unknown problems but the car was too original and the price too good to pass up. I would like to obtain information on what should be done prior to attemping a start up and the best way to pursue this. I have been told about putting oil in the spark plug holes etc. but would really like to know from some folks who have actually done this before. The car has 62,000 original miles and I purchased it from the second owner. Any and all information would be greatly appreciated.
  • Bill Braun 33186

    #2
    Re: start up after long term storage

    Daniel,

    In addition to all the answers you're likely to get on this topic, I suggest you also check the NCRS archive. This topic was discussed a couple of months ago and there was a lot of good information. If you have no success in searching the archive, e-mail me off-line and I'll see what I can find for you.

    Bill Braun

    Comment

    • Gary Schisler

      #3
      Re: start up after long term storage

      As Bill has stated, there is information in the archives, but in a nutshell, here is what I have done in the past.

      1. change all fluids; oil, trans, differential, coolant, steering 2. change rubber brake lines 3. drain gas tank & carb + plus blow the lines out 4. pull calipers and put new seal kits in them 5. repack front wheel bearings 6. at the minimum have someone who is qualified look at the rear trailing arms to insure that those bearings won't freeze up 7. grease all fittings until clean grease oozes out 8. prior to starting up the engine, pull the plugs and rotate the engine crank by hand. Too often there is rust in the cylinders. You might want to pull a head here and to check out the cylinders. I will let another expert comment here. 9. buy or make a oil pump tool to manually prime the oil system so that pressure is indicated before you ever use the starter to turn the engine over. 10. make sure that the shocks haven't gone flat

      Above all, when you do get it running expect minor leaks and problems. Start out with short trips to break in the car and identify any areas that need special attention. I don't feel real qualified to tell you how to look at the cylinders nor would I attempt to tell you how to check out the rear trailing arms.

      Best of all, enjoy!

      Comment

      • Jeff

        #4
        First things, first...

        The laundry list you've been given certainly has to be done before you return the car to the road but to just get it running again, I'd concentrate on getting the engine fired with minimal negative effect and go from there to the other projects like rebuilding calipers, etc. after making sure that the engine runs properly. If it doesn't you may have wasted a lot of time rebuilding components that may not see the road again for a long time.

        There isn't much you can tell about lubricants by looking at them. The fact that the oil looks clean is meaningless. All oils, whether Mobil One or whale oil, begin to oxidize as soon as they are exposed to the air. You can't easily see it in oil but oxidation, oxygen in the air reacting with hydrocarbons in the oil, is what makes old grease turn brown and crumbly. Because of the effects of oxidation, strictly speaking, no two oils are ever completely compatible meaning that a jug of oil that has been open for an hour is not completely compatible with an unopened jug you bought at exactly the same time. Even if you add oil to your engine from the same jug you originally used to fill it, it is technically not compatible with the used oil in the engine once the engine has been run becuase of oxidation and contamination.

        As a practical matter, there isn't much you can do about that but you get the point, the oil that has been sitting in your engine for 16 years is compatible with absolutely *nothing* (and even if it was, you don't even know what it is). The same goes for the gear oils and even the old grease, you shouldn't just add to them either. You should try to flush as much of the old lubricants out of each component as possible. When you grease the fittings, try to manipulate the wear surfaces (by jacking or moving the car) in such a way as to change their relative positions and drive out as much old grease as possible.

        The antifreeze is a similar deal. While antifreeze will never lose its ability to not freeze no matter how old it gets, antifreeze contains rust inhibitors and other additives that dissipate over time whether it is being circulated or not.

        Following the instructions you've been given and those in the archives, I'd get it running, make sure it was up to temperature, maybe even installing a hotter T-stat to make sure it gets good and warm, and then change the fluids again shortly after and then on an accelerated schedule for a while after until the stuff you are draining out still looks pretty fresh.

        But if you follow only one piece of advice and ignore everything else, above all, pull the distributor and pre-pressurize the oiling system before ever cranking the engine, other than by hand.

        JP

        Comment

        • Gary Schisler

          #5
          Re: First things, first...

          Jeff, while I agree that calipers and other road use items are not essential to getting it running, I take a slightly different approach about starting the engine up, once all of the lubricants and fluids are changed. Since the engine was never prepped for long term storage, there is a considerable chance that there is some rust or other hidden anomaly that may cause engine damage upon start up. I would certainly want to pull the heads just to be sure. This is cheap insurance and doesn't take that long or cost that much just to be sure.

          Comment

          • Robert C.
            Expired
            • December 1, 1993
            • 1153

            #6
            Re: First things, first...

            Daniel, Look closely inside your gas tank. There may be rust in the bottom of the tank. If so, after draining, you may want to add a second fuel filter in line on one of the rubber hose areas to make sure these particles don't mess up the carb. You will then have time to get a new tank.


            Texas Chapter NCRS

            Comment

            • Rodney Armstrong

              #7
              Re: start up after long term storage

              Comment

              • Rodney Armstrong

                #8
                Re: start up after long term storage

                Bill, my uncle and I recently went through a situation similiar to yours. We have a 1967 427/435 with 42K original miles that had been sitting since 1975 in a semi-climate controlled garage. Since 1975 the engine was turned by hand twice. Before we tried to crank the car we did the following:

                1. Drained gas tank and inspected for rust. 2. Removed the spark plugs and filled the cylinders with marvel mystery oil. After the oil was in the cyclinders for several days we turned the engine by hand. You can do this by putting a wrench on the harmonic balancer bolt. Just make sure that you turn the engine the right direction. We turned the engine every day by hand for about two weeks. 3. Removed and rebuilt the carbs. This is a must because all of the seals have dried out and the gas in the bowls has turned into varnis. 4. Removed and flushed the radiator. 5. Replaced all hoses and water pump. Beware that the heater core may be bad. If the heater core is bad, it will leak in the passenger floorboard. You can bypass the heater core by connecting the two heater hoses with a fitting. 6. Replaced the fuel filter. 7. Installed new spark plugs. 8. Changed the oil and filter.

                After doing the above, we installed a new battery and turned the engine over with the coil wire unhooked. This will help lubricate the engine before you reconnect the coil. While turning over with the starter watch the oil pressure gauge to see if you are getting some pressure. Next, we reconnected the coil and cranked the car. Treat the engine like a brand new one. It will require a breaking in period. After we ran the engine for a few minutes I changed the oil and filter again. The car has been running for about 3 years and it does not smoke at all. It runs great!

                Good luck, Rodney Armstrong

                Comment

                • daniel mcdougal

                  #9
                  Re: start up after long term storage

                  Bill, Thanks for the help. What a great site for information. I'm sure we'll be in touch aqain.

                  Dan

                  Comment

                  • daniel mcdougal

                    #10
                    Re: start up after long term storage

                    Gary, Thanks for the help. This site will be a fantastic tool while I pursue this crazy dream. I'm sure we'll be in touch again.

                    Dan

                    Comment

                    • daniel mcdougal

                      #11
                      Re: start up after long term storage

                      Rodney, Thanks for the information. This is a first for me and a real challenge. I'm sure I'll be needing plenty of help as I progress, but can't wait for the first ride (I'm sure you understand).

                      Thanks,

                      Dan

                      Comment

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