My 65 coupe L79 when running does so well , idles good, lots of power but for the life of me will not start easily without staring fluid. Can anyone tell me what I need to adjust? The car is a 4 speed. Please help if you can..................thanks in advance.....Joe
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Re: C2 hard starting
Are you absolutely sure that it isnt flooding? That is the most common starting problem with a holley carb. Next time try to nail the pedal to the floor and crank it until it fires. I think you will find that it is the opposite of what you think. It will most likely be flooding when it is shut off, causing the hard starting. -
Re: C2 hard starting
Have to agree with Wayne. I had a brand new Holley that flooded like no other. Put a Edlebrock Performer I had on the shelf on the car (68 RS Camaro Conv w/crate motor). It started RIGHT up, and has run fine ever since - 3 yrs at about 3000 - 4000 per year. Just my 2c. Thanks!Comment
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Re: C2 hard starting
And put the starting fluid in the trash unless you want to replace pistons!Comment
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Cold start or hot start? *NM*
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Sounds to me...
like either a 'cockpit' problem or mis-adjusted choke. With a 4-digit NCRS number, you're NOT a classic Corvette novice.... Some owners forget these cars aren't FI equipped like today's vehicles and there IS a proper starting sequence to set the choke by pressing the pedal to the floor!
Adding starter fluid tells me your car is running too lean during initial cold start. I'd physically verify you're getting solid streams of gas when you push the pedal to the floor + the choke valve is closing properly AND the high idle cam is clicking in on the proper step....
If she starts then dies, I'd be looking at the choke pull off.
Last, keep in mind mechanical linkage for the choke system can pose a Jeckyl/Hyde situation if the air cleaner is causing phyical interference...Comment
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Re: Sounds to me...
Another "hard-start" possibility is an open circuit in the bypass wire from the "R" terminal on the starter solenoid to the (+) terminal on the coil, especially if it does nothing while cranking and tries to fire/run when you release the key from "start" to "on".
Otherwise, check the choke linkage and adjustment (assuming the basic tune-up items are good - points, plugs, wires, cap, rotor, timing, dwell, etc.); if the choke is operating properly (and is set), it should start almost instantly.Comment
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Re: Sounds to me...
Thanks for all your input. I think the problem my lie in the choke operation. When I reinstalled the Holley the choke system was missing and had to be replaced. I never quite understood the correct adjustment set up, could someone help me out. I would like to drive to Omaha for their regional in July. When I was a young man, H&H Chevrolet had a 1970 nova Yenko on the showroom floor that I drooled over for weeks before someone got her. She had an LT1/4 speed and rubber flooring without mats, no radio and hood mounted tach............great looking car............thanks for any help you may give me........JoeComment
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Re: Sounds to me...
Although aged, the HP Books publication on Holley Carbs in the NCRS library (Cincinatti Merchandise) center does a good job of giving you both an overview as well as specifics on the theory of operation, overhaul, and adjustment of the 'beast'. Here's the big picture:
When you push the accelerator all the way to the floor on a cold engine, the mechnical linkage of the carb should (1) close the choke plate and (2) raise idle RPM from standard warm engine position to cold engine high idle position.
Once the engine fires and starts to draw vacuum, the carb's pull off mechanism cracks the choke plate a tad to lean out the mixture and keep the engine from stalling from a too rich mixture until it warms up.
As the block heats up, the bi-metal choke spring expands and this does two things: (1) it slowly opens the choke plate further leaning the mixture and (2) lets the fast idle cam disengage to slow idle RPM in discrete steps back to normal, hot engine, curb idle.
You have adjustments in the carb for how far the choke plate actually closes under cold engine, initial start condition as well as how much cold engine RPM boost you get. The pull-off mechanism typcially works or it doesn't based on the integrity of the vacuum line and the pull-off's vac diaphram.
While books give specs on how to adjust the choke plate's closure and which step of the high idle cam the carb should be adjusted for, there's no substitute for tweaking the final adjustments on car, under bona fide cold ambient conditions.Comment
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