We are going to install my engine tomorrow. Last time we did it with the tranny on but the shop doing it wants to try it with the tranny and engine apart. I think I have read a post here before advising that the engine and tranny be married for installation. I searched the archives but didn't find anything. What say the corvette gods? Thank you Bill#44207
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Re: C2 engine install, w/ tranny or w/o?
Bill------
I used to be a big fan of doing it seperately. Most of this came from some problems I had about 25 years ago in trying to do it as an engine and transmission assembly. However, I've now reversed that opinion completely. I now think that it's far preferable to do it as a combination.
However, there is one caveat: Corvettes have long noses. Most engine hoists are not designed with enough reach for a Corvette, particularly a C3. Installing the complete engine and transmission assembly exacerbates and compounds the problem. Large engine hoists (like those used for trucks, etc.) are quite expensive + the legs are usually too wide to fit between a Corvette's wheels and not wide enough to fit outside the wheels.
I modified an engine hoist by installing a longer boom giving me about 12" additional reach. This kept the hoist within lifting range of the hydraulic ram and also within the length of the "legs" so that the hoist would not tip forward. However, it turned out that 12" was not a sufficient additional reach. Trying to extend the replacement boom beyond 12" caused the hoist to tip when the weight of the engine/transmission assembly was on it. So, we retracted the boom to the "extra 12" position" and installed the engine from the side. This created some other difficulties, but they were overcome and the engine/transmission assembly installed smoothly.
My next step to make sure that I have a "customized for Corvette" engine hoist. This will involve either fashioning some special extensions for the legs (they would need extend the length of the legs but NOT angle out further or the legs would not fit between the wheels) OR fabricating a rack to attach to the rear of the hoist so that counterweights could be installed.
The problems that I encountered might not be as severe with a C2 since the nose is not as long as a C3. However, I still think that a standard engine hoist might not have sufficient reach.In Appreciation of John Hinckley -
Re: C2 engine install, w/ tranny or w/o?
Install engine and trans completeComment
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Re: C2 engine install, w/ tranny or w/o?
that is the way I did with my 454 car, hang the trans on and stab it as one. also came out that way with trans on.Comment
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Re: C2 engine install, w/ tranny or w/o?
The problem Joe describes is what I ran into, also, on my C2. Originally, I had removed only the engine. This was done from the side of the car. The trans was left in place inside the trans tunnel and rested on the frame cross member. Later on the trans was removed so it could be rebuilt, also.
When it came time for reinstallation the engine and trans were bolted together as a unit. Seemed this was the best way to do it. The engine hoist appeared to have enough reach to do the job. With the hoist jib extended out as far as it would go I still needed about 10 more inches of rearward travel in order to line up the motor mounts and frame supports so the assembly could be lowered into place. The problem was the engine hoist butting up against the nose of the car.
I ended up re-installing the engine by itself from the side of the car. The trans had been reinstalled back inside the tunnel.
The engine hoist was bought from a local FLAPS. It's the 'knock down' style that has the removable front legs that store in the upright position when the lift is stored. The jib extension has 4 holes with commensurate weight ratings from 2 tons to 500 pounds. The hydraulic ram is rated at 8 tons. These lifts seem to be fairly common and are available in many auto parts stores.Comment
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Re: C2 engine install, w/ tranny or w/o?
Bill,
As others have mentioned, trying to install the engine and transmission as an assembly is not a good idea for a number of reasons. The two components should be installed separately, but not the way most would think.
I like to install the transmission first, with the clutch (bell) housing attached. The clutch throwout arm and bearing are also attached and this insures that the bearing remains in the proper position on the release lever during engine installation. Once that assembly is bolted together, it's not possible for the bearing to accidently become improperly installed on the fork while trying to index and assemble the engine and transmission. I raise and support the front of this assembly until the clutch housing is almost touching the firewall.
Now, the engine, including flywheel and clutch assembly, can be lowered almost straight down into position. You will find that the two components index and slide together MUCH easier this way and there's no possibility the T.O. bearing can be knocked out of position during the process. (this happens all too often)
Once the engine and clutch housing are bolted together with at least two fasteners, the entire assembly can then be lowered onto it's mounts.
Suggestion: At this point, the very next thing I do is install and trial fit/adjust the clutch linkage to insure that all components are correct. If there IS a problem with clutch adjustment/linkage/bearing dimensions, now is definitely the time to find it. Not after the entire installation is complete. Good luck with your project.Comment
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AGREED! *NM*
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Re: C2 engine install, w/ tranny or w/o?
Everyone has their own method that works best for them. I've always installed them as an assembled unit; car on jackstands, left front wheel removed, engine/transmission on a tilter, hoist manipulated from the left side. Have done it that way for years.Comment
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Re: C2 engine install, w/ tranny or w/o?
my method: bolt engine and tranny together and then get John to help, John Deere's front end loader. mikeComment
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Re: C2 engine install, w/ tranny or w/o?
Install engine/trans as an assy!!!! Much easier to align trans/clutch etc.
If you use a chain hoist its very easy. Just roll the car under the engine and lower it into the engine bay. It helps if you tilt the engine so the trans is tail down. Hoist hook height about 8 ft works good.
I attached 2 "sandwiched" 2x8 by 10 ft long together and then anchored to garage framework. I supported each end of the sandwich with 4x4 posts to take the vertical load off the garage frame. Garage is for stability only.Comment
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