1967 Chassis paint question

[Jerry A.]

I have got my 67' chassis taken completely apart. I have decided to have it sand blasted and then have the INSIDE Ziebarted. I plan to paint with Krylon semi-gloss black. Can you help me with suggestions regarding a primer. The frame has some pitting and I would like to fill with a good filler primer but don't know which one to use.
Thanks for the help!

Jerry

[Barbara S.]

Re: 1967 Chassis paint question

Jerry. I used an epoxy primer when I primed and painted my 67 frame last summer. I think the epoxy is a good choice because it is durable and flows pretty well. Then, I sprayed it with a semi gloss black paint with a hardener in it after the primer. I think that is a better choice than using spray cans. Try Quanta Products. They can hook you up.

Just my opinion.
Good luck.
Tony

[Bryan L.]

Re: 1967 Chassis paint question

I used Ditzler DP-90 which is already black, although a little too flat IMO for a frame. I used some glazing putty on the pits and rough spots. Sanded all of that down with a DA, resprayed the DP and it came out very slick. Topcoat it with your choice of frame paint. I used satin clear over the DP-90 which gave the it right sheen.

BL

[Jerry A.]

Re: 1967 Chassis paint question

Will look into! Thanks Tony, Jerry

[Jerry A.]

Re: 1967 Chassis paint question

Will look into! Thanks alot Bryan, Jerry

[Randy R.]

Re: 1967 Chassis paint question

I used a self etching primer, covered with a coat of " Cat Black" obtained from our local Caterpillar dealer. It is sold in gallons, is not expensive and has a mild sheen to it. One of the problems with DP paint is that if a rock chip gets to the bare metal, moisture will get under the DP, rust will form and the paint will peel. This has happened to us with vehicles painted many years ago. Maybe the problem has since been addressed, I have not checked.

[Patrick H.]

Re: 1967 Chassis paint question

Randy,

Is "Cat Black" able to be used as-is, or does it have to be thinned or mixed?

Patrick

[Dick W.]

Re: 1967 Chassis paint question

Your experience with PPG DP series primer is exactly the opposite of what I have experienced. Properly prepared bare steel, I use a phosphoric acid wash, with DP 90 is the nearest thing to a bullet proof substrate that can be applied to a frame. I am sure that there are better products available, but I am not aware of anything available to the retail trade. I am sure that DuPont, S-W, and the other major paint manufacturers have a comparable product.

The "Cat Black" and DP are both a self etching primer. SEMS offers a self etching black primer in a spray can. It is fairly close to the sheen that you would expect to see on a frame.

[Joe R.]

Re: 1967 Chassis paint question

Hi Jerry:

I see that several people have responded to your post with suggestions for what sort of primer will bond well to bare metal, but I didn't see much response to your other question about filling pits.

I think you should probably use a primer that experience has shown will bond well to bare metal, but if you still have lots of visible pitting after that is applied you may want to try another material on top of that to fill the pits.

Recently I was refinishing my differential crossmember and I experimented with a couple different methods for filling the pits. I tried a product called Evercoat "Slick Sand" and was quite impressed with it. This stuff is very high-build and can be applied with a brush or spray gun. It is a catalyzed paint, which means you have to mix in a hardener and then you have about 45 minutes to apply the paint before is starts setting up.

The nice thing about Slick Sand is that it sands like a dream, cutting quickly and without gumming up the sandpaper. I just sanded the pitted surfaces until the tops of the pitted areas started showing through. Then I applied a final coat of regular high-build primer and sanded it lightly, trying to avoid cutting through to the metal.

Both products can be purchased from Eastwood. It's tempting to just use repeated coats of the high-build primer to fill the pits, but the Slick Sand gives more fill per coat and sands more easily.

I have no idea how well the Slick Sand will hold up over time, but right now my crossmember looks like new.

[Rob A.]

Re: 1967 Chassis paint question

Jerry,

Make sure you test what ever primer you decide to use under the Krylon(if that's what you decide to go with), unless it's Krylon brand as well. Some paints, and Krylon is one of them, will peel up the primer underneath if it's not compatible. It will cause quite a mess....unfortunately I know from experience.

[Jerry A.]

Re: 1967 Chassis paint question

Thanks Randy!

[Jerry A.]

Re: 1967 Chassis paint question

Thanks for the response Dick.

Jerry

[Jerry A.]

Re: 1967 Chassis paint question

Beautiful!! Thank you very much!!!

Jerry

[Jerry A.]

Re: 1967 Chassis paint question

Rob,
Thanks for the advise. Will the Krylon peel up some primers immediately or over time??? I know you have to wait at least 3 days to add other coats of Krylon after the first 2 hrs of applying.

Thanks, Jerry