I am ready to trailer my 1963 Corvette to long range events (please don't call it a trailer queen...I drive it whenever I can! It is simply nice to minimize road grime when it will be judged). I purchased ratchet tie-downs and axel straps. I have heard that applying the parking brake while trailering will lock up the rear brakes due to the self adjusting mechanism. I have also read that putting the car in gear will wear the transmission gears prematurely. My questions are, what is the best way to cinch it down for the trip? In gear or not? Hand brake engaged or not? Axel straps around the struts or propeller shafts? Any advice will be greatly appreciated.
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Re: Trailer Tie-Down Procedure
Randy, I have a question for you..................Why wouldn't you use the frame tie down locations that GM designed for transporting Corvettes?
They have DESIGNED REINFORCED tie down locations in the frame, front and rear and are both the same size....about 1 inch by 1 1/2inch . The fronts are on a slight downward angle on the outsides of the frame rails, just a few inches from the front of the frame rail. The rears are on the BOTTOM of the rear crossmember, the one where the kick up is and are orientated for and aft. They are about 6 inches inboard of the outer frame rails. If you stick your pinkie in these slotted holes you will feel the backing plate.
There is a special tie down hook that GM uses, which is called a "R" hook and is simply inserted into the slotted hole and twisted 90 degrees and pulled back into the end of the slot. These hooks would have one hell of a time getting out of the slots, even if the tension was removed.
BTW the slot with the hole at the end, on the bottom of the frame under the rocker panels, are NOT intended as tie downs...........that slotted hole was used in the assembly plant to move the vehicle down the assembly line.
The "R" hooks can be seen here. http://www.truckntow.com/pc-11281-147164-r-hook.aspx
I use the adjustable "E" track system and it works great for me as I have different size cars that I hall in my enclosed trailer.
I leave the car in neutral and do not set the parking brake. I have stop blocks screwed to the floor so the trailer always has the same balance.
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Re: Trailer Tie-Down Procedure
Randy,
You have an excellent point about the rear brake self adjusters functioning as the car rocks fore/aft in the trailer with the parking brake applied. If there is enough movement, the adjuster will function each time the car moves. However, if the shoes are properly adjusted to start, I don't think there could be enough rotation of the shoe package to cause the adjuster to function.
There is a bad side to allowing the car to rock fore/aft in a trailer though. As tough and indestructable as we think wheel bearings are, it doesn't require a lot of rocking before they're destroyed. By design, tapered roller bearings relubricate each roller every time it revolves 360*. If, instead of making complete revolutions, it just rolls a few degrees one way then a few degrees back, the lubricant is quickly rubbed away and the race will soon brinell. It may not show as a problem immediately but a few thousand miles later, the brinell will usually destroy the bearing.
In the early/mid 70's, GM/Corvette had a severe warranty problem with early front/rear wheel bearing failure on new Corvettes. (and some other units) After months of research, it was finally determined that all of the units with failed bearings happened to be shipped to dealers many miles across the country from the assembly plant. It finally occured to engineering that the problem was caused by the vehicle fore/aft movement on the rail car, even though it was securely chained down. The fix? Drop the tire pressure to 18 lbs and firmly apply the parking brake.Comment
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Art's giving good advice but,
if you have an 18' trailer like mine, the D rings are spaced such that you can't use the frame slots. I've towed my Corvette thousands of miles. Ratchet straps on the rear strut rods and through the front lower A frames. In gear, park brake on.
Other opinions on how to do this vary. The archives have many discussions on this.Comment
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Re: Art's giving good advice but,
I have had no issues with my 1970 using the lower control arms in front (the C-3 front factory tie-down location is slightly different than Art described, and harder to get to unless the bottom of the trailer is open) and the factory tie-down location in the rear. On C-3s the rear tie-down is identifiable by feel in that it is the only hole in the cross member in front of the rear wheels with a turned down edge, which adds to its strength. I tried using the lower shock mounts and rear axles and found those locations wanting for various reasons. Be sure to use padded straps on the front control arms, and I recommend crossing the straps front and rear. I have placed the transmission in reverse, with the parking brake engaged with no apparent damage to the car.TerryComment
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Re: Art's giving good advice but,
i trailered our 67 435 to effingham for its PV in the mid-90's. i'd pre-pv'd the old girl to the tune of about 500 miles before leaving for the regional. it had all new emergency brake components---cables, shoes and lever assembly. set the brake before leaving, arrived, pulled the coupe out of trailer and ran quickly thru the pv before the real PV the next morning. e-brakes wouldn't hold the car. disassembled the rear to find the lining on one of the shoes gone.went to the Mid-america counter, bought new shoes, installed and got the PV. my conclusion: i don't set the e-brake anymore. mikeComment
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Thank you all for the advice
You guys are great! Since this will be the first time I will trailer any car, I am thankful for all the great advice. I had never heard of the "R" hook and it's associated usage, quite and interesting idea. I probably could use the front holes if I didn't want to cross the tie-downs, as I do. The rear ones do not seem to be in a good position to use relative to the D-rings on my 18 foot trailer. I think that I will put the car in gear, avoid the use of the hand brake, use the struts in the rear and go through the lower A-frame in the front. Thanks again!Comment
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Re: Art's giving good advice but,
I agree with Mike McKown on the D straps and rachet straps. I have had success that way trailering my C3's approximately 12,000 miles. I don't understand the reason for engaging the emergency brake or having the transmission engaged in any way. It seems to me that can only cause problems. If it it strapped and rachetted as Mike says what assistance do the emergency brake and/or gear engagement give.??? I think the straps should be more than enough if properly installed and tightened.Comment
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Re: Art's giving good advice but,
Dave,
If the tie down straps break and the car is not in gear, the car becomes loose on/in the trailer. At highway speed, the nightmare begins when the car rolls off the trailer. Trailers can do strange things when a tire blows. They can even turn over the tow vehicle.Comment
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Re: Art's giving good advice but,
louis,
You are 100% right. Very bad things can happen w/ a car trailer. My thought is if the 4 strap set-ups are installed and tightened properly the chances of one of them failing is quite slim, let alone both fronts or both rears during the same trip. I guess I'd rather take that chance rather than risk damage to my emergency brake and/or drivetrain. JMHO.Comment
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Re: Art's giving good advice but,
I printed a story in The Restorer about a member with a C1 who lost both front straps -- they were cut by the lower control arm -- on his way to the National Convention in Monterey. His description of seeing his Corvette in the rear view mirror with the rear wheels on the ground and the front wheels on the trailer was memorable.
I also recall watching a driver-less C1 roll off the trailer and down the hill in Osage Beach when the tie-downs were removed for unloading. That unguided Corvette was stopped by another Corvette. Fortunately no one was injured. That incident was also reported in The Restorer.
I also recall a story about a Corvette rolling out of a trailer in Maryland. That incident was only a little less publicized than those above.
I'll leave my car in gear -- almost a necessity with a C3 unless one leaves the key in the ignition -- and the hand brake set. Your car belongs to you and you may do what you wish with it.TerryComment
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Re: Thank you all for the advice
I also use the four straps but in an overabundance of caution I also put a chain around a front control arm and loop it through the tie down and fasten it back to the chain creating a loop. If all else fails, at least it will not roll off the trailer.Comment
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Re: Art's giving good advice but,
I use the hooks, front and rear. The fronts are relatively easy to attach, the rears are a pain. I stop the car on the ramps and attach the rear "R" hooks while on the ramps. Lay the straps between the wheels and drive on the trailer. Easy to do. I alway cross the rear straps and leave the front straight.
Don't EVER haul a car, even if just across the street, not tied down. They can come out of gear and the weight of the car can force open swing doors. Don't ask me how I know thisDick WhittingtonComment
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I've heard of T-hooks
And they are available at many places. They will fit in the slots.
http://www.shop.com/op/aprod-p321733...er?sourceid=13
Tying to the rear strut rods is common, but not recommended since they bend.
Tying to the front lower a-arms is also common, but care needs to be excercised. Be sure if wrapping a strap AROUND the arm that it has a reinforced sleeve to protect it from cuts. Do not put too much tension on the strap as you can bend the arm or pivot, not to mention destroy bushings.
The drawback for most people with the t-hooks is that those slots are located at a point that make it difficult for most home trailers to have the straps angled down enough. You want the strap to be around 30 to 45 degrees from level. Easily done on a tractor trailer transport, but the personal car trailer is often with the tie down points in the wrong place.
For more ideas, see the link below.
Trailering Your Corvette
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Re: I've heard of T-hooks
Mike, I agree with you about NOT using ANY suspension parts as tie down locations and that is why I use the "E" track system and the "R" hooks in the GM designed locations.......very adjustable. The hooks aren't that difficult to put on and as Dick suggested, they can be hooked up on the ramp and driven into the trailer.
The "R" hooks, once inserted, essentially lock into place and have to be turned 90 degrees to be removed and can't "jump" out, where as the "T" hooks could.
I have tailored my Corvette about 30+K miles in this manner and never once has any straps even loosen up.
ArtComment
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