C2:67 Original rotor. Shall I use it?

[Gerard F.]

Rummaging around the garage again and getting ready to put my original distributor back on (next weekend), and I found the original rotor. Here it is:


It's got a few little chips in it, and some wear on the contacts. But I thought I'd try it with the original cap. Pretty easy to change those things, if I had to.

Incidentally, I think I got the tach crossgear problem solved and without drilling a hole in the distributor housing. I got one of these nylon buttons, cut the hole ears down (not completely off) and it fits in the cavity worn out by the original crossgear. It holds in place with just a little dab of grease, and the cone formed by the wear on the housing. Put it in and there is no slop back and forth on the crossgear.

The trial will be the 800 mile drive to Flagstaff. Just in case, I'll bring my replacement distributor along.

What is the initial setting of the point gap of a 67 distributor prior to
installing?

Jerry Fuccillo
#42179

[William C.]

Re: C2:67 Original rotor. Shall I use it?

I have some bad news for you, this is NOT the original rotor for your car, the "E" stamped on the rotor tip did not appear unitl about 1973 when the tip was SHORTENED to make the system voltage requirement higher to fire the plugs. This rotor can best be deswcribes as a piece of Junk, and is particularly unsuited to use an any of the High-performance Corvette engines. The good news is you don't have to agonize over the decision now...

[Gary S.]

Re: C2:67 Original rotor. Shall I use it?

Why would you want to use an old rotor? New ones are cheap, are everywhere and they aren't judged.

IIRC, point gap for contact points is .16-.19 and should give 28-32 on the dwell. Again, from rusty memory cells.

Gary

[Gerard F.]

Thanks for the good news, Bill *NM*

[Mike M.]

Re: C2:67 Original rotor. Shall I use it?

.016 used, .019 new points and 30 degree dwell as gary mentioned. mike

[Dick W.]

Re: C2:67 Original rotor. Shall I use it?

Several years ago there was an article in the Restorer concerning rotor buttons. I believe that Bill Sangrey authored it. It would make some good reading for anyone that drives their car. It should be on the Restorer CD

[Michael H.]

Re: Thanks for the good news, Bill

Pretty sure the new "E" gap rotors were introduced at the start of 69 production. This change was part of the change to the new R (resistor) spark plugs. I don't know for sure if the "E" was actually stamped on the rotor blade for 69 but, as Bill Clupper mentioned, it certainly was by 1973.
The original long blade non "E" gap rotor, #1932015, was replaced in service for all years by the new design "E" gap rotor, #1971247, in Oct of 1969.

[Gerard F.]

Thanks for the tip, Dick

Want you to know that I got my Owners Manual bag and contents fumigated so you can't tell whether the original owner was a smoker. See you at Flagstaff?

Jerry Fuccillo

[Dick W.]

Only the judge knows *NM*