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Home Plating - Caswell

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  • Donald T.
    Expired
    • September 30, 2002
    • 1319

    Home Plating - Caswell

    The previous thread on plating got me off the couch (no small accomplishment on it's own!) to do some plating. So I dug through my parts room and pulled out a set of 65-67 hood latches. These aren't too pretty, but are really good cores.


    Hood latch after bead blasting. All paint, dirt and rust must be removed. It's difficult to tell from the pic, but some of the original plating remains, which is not a problem.


    There are some scratches and light pitting that are removed with a die grinder and sanding disk. Care must be exersized not to confuse scratches with original tooling marks which need to be preserved.


    The part is then bead blasted again to remove sanding scratches left by the die grinder. The bead blasting provides an even finish on the part. The sanding scratches will show through after plating if not removed.

    The part is then thoroughly scrubbed cleaned prior to plating. The Caswell kit comes with a degreaser, but I prefer an ammonia cleaner diluted with hot water. The part must be absolutely clean prior to plating. Part is removed with a wire to avoid handling the cleaned part, and rinsed with distilled water. It then goes into the plating tank. Yes, that is my kitchen sink, which might explain why I am single


    Current is controlled with a rectifier to obtain roughly 25 ma per square inch with the least voltage possible. Batteries will work, but there are problems controlling the current and voltage. Note that this part only required 1/2 of 1 volt to provide sufficient current, and you can't get that kind of control with a battery.


    The kit comes with two ceramic heaters that are controlled with a thermostat.


    The part is left to plate for up to an hour, and agitated regularly. The extended time in the tank provides extra thickness for longevity.


    The extended time in the tank deposits more zinc, but creates problems too. The longer the time in the tank, the duller and rougher the plating finish becomes. This problem will be made worse if a battery is used. Also, note that the finish is not even. When the part is removed from the tank, it must not be touched for several hours, as the oils from the hands will create black spots. I just let the part sit overnight.


    Now the real work begins. The part is rubbed out by hand with 00 steel wool. This brightens and evens out the finish. Trial and error is required during the initial metal prep, and finish polishing to achieve a factory finish. In my opinion, this is as close to a factory finish as I have achieved. Although others like to have a finish that is more highly polished, but it just doesn't look quite right to me. I guess it's just personal preference.

    The spring is painted semi-flat black and reinstalled along with the hood bumper.


    I think it bears repeating. There is a lot of expense involved in equipment including the plating kit, rectifier, blast cabinet, media, and air compressor. It is also a lot of work and very time consuming. These hood latches took several hours of work. It would be a lot more cost effective and easier to outsource this job. So before investing in all of the equipment, it just has to be something that you want to do for the fun and satisfaction of doing it yourself. If you enjoy this sort of thing, then it can be pretty fun.

    Here's the photo album.


    Happy Plating!
    Attached Files
  • John M.
    Expired
    • January 1, 1999
    • 1553

    #2
    Re: Home Plating - Caswell

    Don,
    I also have had some very good results with the Caswell setup, and have some other tips that might help you to avoid some of the manual labor associated with buffing them back up. I have found the 25ma/sqin is probably on the low end of the scale and will tend to make the part dull and grey. By raising this to at least double that, I found the process worked better and required no mecanical buffing after plating with proper agitation. I tried the air agitation, but found that it just made a lot of foam that I could not see the parts through. I ended up getting a submersible pump from a display fountian and hang it in the tank with the discharge pointed toward the parts. The ammount of volume going over the parts, will help heep them bright and clean.

    Regards, John McGraw

    Comment

    • Gerard F.
      Extremely Frequent Poster
      • June 30, 2004
      • 3803

      #3
      Great Story!

      Don,

      You ought to write that post up as a Restorer Story or for your Chapter newsletter. It's a great how to story.

      I do Caswell Plating also, but I'm married and so I'm relegated to an old garage for my plating. I have been know to use the wife's dishwasher for cleaning parts, when she is away.

      If you are going to plate in the kitchen, make sure you turn the oven hood fan on or have plenty of ventilation, you probably know that.

      Here's what I use for plating prep prior to degreasing, and final finish on shiny parts:


      Just a blue Nylok wheel on a drill (not the one Caswell sends). It does a nice job polishing the part.

      I'll have to try that ammonia clean (Mr. Clean?) instead of the SP degreaser.

      Again, Great Story.

      Jerry Fuccillo
      #42179
      Attached Files
      Jerry Fuccillo
      1967 327/300 Convertible since 1968

      Comment

      • Donald T.
        Expired
        • September 30, 2002
        • 1319

        #4
        Re: Home Plating - Caswell

        John,

        I agree on the air agitation, as I haven't found that to be an effective solution either. I just manually agitate the part every few minutes. I think you are on to something with the fountain pump. That should keep the hydrogen bubbles from affecting the plating finish, and would be more effective than manual agitation. I'm anxious to try that out and see how it works.

        I haven't had very good luck increasing the current though. It plates faster, but produces a rougher and duller finish. I suspect that your agitation technique is so effective in preventing hydrogen build up, it permits higher current without adversely affecting the finish. I'm anxious to try the fountain pump with varying current. Anything that can reduce all of the rubbing with steel wool would be great!

        Comment

        • Donald T.
          Expired
          • September 30, 2002
          • 1319

          #5
          Re: Great Story!

          Thanks Jerry. I would love to do an article for the Restorer, and would gladly volunteer. However, I'm sure there are others (including yourself) that are more qualified than I. The previous string was inquiring about investing in a plating kit, and I thought a run through the basics would be helpful with decision making.

          The ammonia cleaner seems to work fine. Of course, the parts are pretty clean coming out of blasting anyway. It's just a lot easier to work with. I just dilute it with hot tap water, and then dump it when finished. Of course, since it's diluted with tap water, rinsing thoroughly with distilled water afterwards becomes even more crucial.

          Where did you get that blue polishing wheel? I haven't seen anything like that at my local Lowes. I'd like to try that out.

          Thanks!

          Comment

          • Gerard F.
            Extremely Frequent Poster
            • June 30, 2004
            • 3803

            #6
            Re: Great Story!

            Don,

            I got the Nylok wheel at Orchards Supply; they had a whole rack of them of different sizes and abasiveness. Blue is fine or medium fine, orange or red are too abrasive and are for dull finishes. Surpized Lowes doesn't have them, you could also try Sears.

            I also use beadblasting on pot metal or steel parts when you want dull or satin finish. But when you want bright parts, hit it with the nylok wheel before and after plating. I tried the zinc brightener in the plating tank but no longer use it. Once you put it in, you get inconsistent results with your plating solution.

            On agitation, I have an aquarium air pump but haven't really used it much. I think I get better results with doing what you are doing, just occasionally stirring the mix, and rotating the part.

            On voltage and amps, I don't worry about the amps per square inch. I use an Analog Lab Power Supply (Kikusui, which I bought on ebay for $30) I adjust the volts, then amps up until the parts starts effervesing (sp?), then adjust the voltage and amps back slightly. Best results with voltage 1 to 1.5, amps with whatever the part takes at that voltage. As it plates you can increase the amps.

            Also, I have this old blueprint machine at the office, and I always have this half spent ammonia left over. I just found a new use for it, but it will probably, fumigate the garage.

            Happy Plating,

            Jerry Fuccillo
            Jerry Fuccillo
            1967 327/300 Convertible since 1968

            Comment

            • Donald T.
              Expired
              • September 30, 2002
              • 1319

              #7
              Re: Great Story!

              Thanks Jerry. I'll look around for those abrasive wheels. That might really help. The ones I have used from Lowes are a little too abrasive for finish work.

              Thanks!

              Comment

              • Rob M.
                NCRS IT Developer
                • January 1, 2004
                • 12722

                #8
                Re: Home Plating - Caswell

                Great story Don, thanks for explaining. I've done some experiments myself a couple of month ago but I'm still not completely happy with the end result (uneven plating, dull spots, etc). I use the Eastwood kit and a power supply with a very good voltage/current regulator. I guess my prep-work is not up to the level it should be... I won't try any bits of the car until I got it right.

                greetings,
                Rob.
                Rob.

                NCRS Dutch Chapter Founder & Board Member
                NCRS Software Developer
                C1, C2 and C3 Registry Developer

                Comment

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