I bought an 88 C4. The book say's to run 5-30 sf/cc or sf/cd oil.I run Chevron delo 400 15/w40 in my 69. Would you recomend that in the C4? Or should I stay with the 5-30 as recomended? I run that in my Cadillac with the northstar in it so ,I have both on hand.I would like your opinion. Thanks in advance.Tom Stanton #41491
Oil ? Duke !
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Re: Oil ? Duke !
As long as you don't have to do a lot of cold starts below about 10F, 15W-40 is okay according to GM recommendations in seventies vintage owner's manuals. In the eighties OEMs reduced their viscosity recommendations in a quest for lower internal engine friction for better fuel economy.
Mineral oil-based Delo 400 is also available in 10W-30, which is okay down to 0F, but I have not seen it stocked in California. If you want a wider range, they also offer a synthetic based 5W-40.
Viscosity range should always be choosen based on the lowest consistent anticipated cold starting ambient temperature during the interval that the oil will be installed.
Google on "Delo 400" to find more information on available grades at the Chevron-Texaco website.
Duke- Top
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Re: Oil ? Duke !
Due we need to be concern about an 88 running morden oil with lower amounts of zinc? Run the desiel oil in C2 yes - is 88 a different concern?
There has been a great concern of 87 Buick V6 owners, they need the higher old oil additives (zinc) or have failures. Many have used the GM EOS also. The V6's are flat tappet style - does rollers avoid the concern? These are questions, not suggestions.- Top
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Re: Oil ? Duke !
Roller lifters are less suseptable to wear with low ZDDP concentration, but that vintage still has sliding surfaces on the rocker arms, and all engines are suseptable to wear at the top of the cylinder bore, which ZDDP will slow.
Duke- Top
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Re: Mobil1?
the ZR-1 had cam bearing problems till they went to mobil 1 because it took too long for the cold dino oil to get to the cam bearings in the heads which are plain aluminum. they need a quicker flow when the temps were low. after cam/flat tappet breakin using either high in zink oil or GM EOS mobil 1 will not cause any problem. my 88 silverado 350 with 130,000+ miles has had mobil 1 since the first oil change and this engine has a flat tappet camshaft.- Top
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Re: Mobil1?
Mobile 1 is rated SM, so it lacks the additive richness of CI-4 oils.
Chevron, Mobil, and Shell offer CI-4 synthetic base oils if you want to extend your drain interval, have to start the engine at subzero temperatures, or have high oil operating temperature during normal operation.
The most important criterion for oil selection is the additive package. Base stock is a secondary consideration driven the the other criteria I mentioned.
For all the time and words that guys squander in ceaseless and senseless arguments about synthetic versus mineral oil base stocks, 99.999999 percent don't ever even mention additives, and don't know squat about them.
By "additives" I am talking about the components that are blended into the oil by the manufacturer, not some snake oil you buy to add to your crankcase.
Duke- Top
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0-50W water to wine
Howdy,
have you seen the new quaker state and castrol synthetic 0-50W & 5-50W. The 0W gets to the upper valve train very quick and as the oil heats up, it thickens to the 50W. I went to purchase some at Wal-Mart and they were sold out, so I purchased the castrol 5-50W and put it in my 93 jeep grand cherokee with the 5.2L V8 that has 309,000 KM's (180,000 Miles) and it starts so smooth (better than before) and by the way I change my oil every 5,000 KM (3,000 Miles). I'm going to try it in my 75 vette to see how the oil pressure responds. Just another thought for anyone to think about.- Top
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