My rear wheel bearings seem ok but I would like to take them apart to service them. I bought an on car bearing press and am ready to put pressure to it. I don't like the way the "T" bolt t's into the lower strut mount. Is there any chance of breaking said mount? Am I doing this right?
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Re: '65 wheel bearings
IMO the only way to separate the bearing pack is to remove the trailing arm and fixture it into at least a 10-ton press. If you try to use some kind of on-the-car puller, I think you might do some damage.
Disk brake bearing packs tend to be tougher to break apart than those with drum brakes due to the greater heat transfer from the disk to the spindle, which over a zillion heat cycles causes them to become quite seized, and you need a big press to break the pack apart.
If you are looking at the '63 Shop Manual, forget it. The procedure was written for the early slip fit setup, which was replaced in production by a press fit setup on 12/1/62. A TSB written on this, which included elimiation of the 30K mile repack requirement. Nevertheless, I recommend overhauling the spindle pack every 120K miles or 30 years, whichever occurs first.
Duke -
Re: '65 wheel bearings
Thanks Duke. I'm pretty sure its 30 yrs and I do drive it a lot. I have heard of guys bending the 1" thick plate on these presses. I hope I don't break my stut rod mount. Anyone else?Comment
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Re: '65 wheel bearings
Frank------
There are different kinds of rear bearing presses "out there". One design uses a lower attachment that fits through the opening between the "legs" of the fork. I do not like this design and I would not use it. It is possible to use this design press if the strut rods are installed in the car whereas the original Kent-Moore design requires removal of the strut rods. Anyone who tries to do this job with the strut rods still attached is nuts, in my opinion, so there's really no disadvantage to the Kent-Moore design. In fact, I consider the Kent-Moore lower attachment to be the absolute best design.
The Kent-Moore tool also includes spacers for the upper 2 bolts which attach to the caliper bracket (on 65-82 applications). Many of the aftermarket tools do not.
The design of the original Kent-Moore tool, including the bolts, spacers, and lower attachment configuration ensures that, when used properly, the press plate will be perfectly perpendicular to the spindle. THIS IS ABSOLUTELY CRITICAL. If it doesn't happen, there is a VERY HIGH DEGREE OF RISK that the spindle support or the caliper bracket will be broken in the pressing operation. Usually, the caliper bracket will be the first to go, though.
The Kent-Moore tool also includes a spindle shaft protector whereas many of the aftermarket tools do not. It is CRITICAL that this spindle shaft protector be used whenever the press is used.
Even with the Kent-Moore spindle press and even if it's perfectly installed, it still may not be possible to press out the spindle. As Duke mentioned, for long-installed spindles, the interference fit of the inner bearing to spindle will be "magnified a thousand times". In these cases, only an hydraulic press of high capacity will break the spindles free. To do this job with an hydraulic press, though, requires very carefully "jigging up" the trailing arm in the press. Tou CANNOT press against the arm, itself; you will bend it. You must press only against the upper portion of the spindle support and fully support this area on the press plates. I have seen it require 25 tons of pressure (as measured in the press hydraulic system) to break loose some of these long-installed spindles. You could never achieve this kind of force with the on-car press and if you got even close to it, you would brak the caliper bracket or the spindle support forks.In Appreciation of John HinckleyComment
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Re: '65 wheel bearings
Makes sense Joe. I was noticing that it would be nice if this tool lined up a little better. It also does not have the sleeves that you describe. I did see one with sleeves in the past so I know of which you speak. It does have the thread protector. I have not put too much pressure on this yet, It would be nice to know how far till I should stop. I may have to go to plan "B" on this one.Comment
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Re: '65 wheel bearings
Dont worry about breaking the strut mounts. You will bend the caliper mounts long before that. Here is the way to safely do it. Set it up as straight as possible, then tighten up good on the press bolt. Get a large steel bar that will fit into the depresion on the outer end of the axle. I use a big one with ground out reliefs for the webbing. Knock the heck out of the bar with a large hammer, like a 4 or 5 pounder. This shocks the axle and it will release a little. Then tighten more on the bolt and do this again. You should feel the bolt loosen each time you whack the axle. Eventually it will come out without damaging anything. I know it seems like you are trying to knock it the wrong way, but believe me, it works.Comment
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Re: '65 wheel bearings
Cool, Thanks Wayne. I've got a bar and a large hammer.
I believe ya....... I'll try that, Gently.
Frank.Comment
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Re: '65 wheel bearings
Not gently, tighten it good and knock the crap out of it.Comment
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Re: '65 wheel bearings
I'll be thinking gently, but whacking mightily.Comment
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Re: '65 wheel bearings
I used the "on the car" Kent-Moore tool once. It didn't budge it. I kept it on the backside with pressure on it and then used a slide hammer axle puller on the wheel studs. Using both at the same time, it came off.Comment
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Re: '65 wheel bearings
Have you inspected he bushings at the front of the trailing arms? You may need to remove the arm anyway to replace that bushing.Comment
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Re: '65 wheel bearings
Mike, Slide hammer, that would work.
Ken, the front bushings are new. I'm thinking about urethane though.
No has too big of concerns about breaking the press mount areas?
Thanks, Frank.Comment
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The "Blue Wrench"
In the 60's and early 70's, many of the Chevrolet dealer mechanics used a torch to heat the inner race. I've seen others use a cutting torch to slice through the inner race also, without damage to the spindle. I suppose if someone was really talented, it could be done but I wonder about the integity of the spindle after the heat soak. Probably no worse than the heat created by a failed bearing if run for an extended period.Comment
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Re: The "Blue Wrench"
Actually you dont need to get too close to the axle itself, just cut away enough to get the bearings off the race and the raised edge on the race. You can remove the inner and outer race later. However this method is a interesting excercise fire control. The dripping streams of burning grease and smoke will alert the neighbors for sure. Dont be surprised if the guys in the big red trucks come a running. On second thought, that is not a bad thing if you try this method.Comment
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Re: The "Blue Wrench"
But an excellent way to test your smoke detectors tho.. And probably the neighbors too.
I hate doing spindle bearings.Comment
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