Trailers....

[Jim V.]

Lookin at Trailex, Featherlite, OR R&R open aluminum trailers to haul a C2 with my Ford E150. I know enclosed has several advantages but weight and price are major issues for me. I also have considered used, but unfortunately I have been unsuccessfull. Any suggestions/words of wisdom out there?

Thanks

[Randy R.]

Re: Trailers....

I am looking for a trailer to haul my C2 as well. Trailex is my manufacturer of choice so far. They make both open and enclosed and since they are aluminum they are quite light and easy to tow. In addition, they are running an off season special to NCRS members for $750 off! I plan to weld up removable panels to protect the car from road debris and remove them when I haul my skid loader, lawn mower or logs to the mill.

[Ken A.]

Re: Trailers....

Jim

I have been hauling my 69 and then my 72 autocross car on an open trailer (steel) since the mid 90's without any problems. I tow w/my 96 C1500 Ext cab Chevy w/350, automatic and 3.73 rear gears. I can cruise at 65 all day, only dropping out of OD on the hills, but can still hold 65 90% of the time. Coming back from Park City with our 88 on the trailer, I got 13mpg through Utah and Nevada with the cruise set on 65. Car and trailer weight about 5000 lbs. The big difference with an enclosed trailer is wind resistance, both frontal and side. Cross winds will be real noticable and your milage will be worse than with an open trailer. If you had a diesel, you won't notice much of a difference, but without all that torque, it will be noticeable. All that being said, an enclosed trailer is nice, clean, dry and secure. What about storage? You can keep your car outside while in an enclosed trailer. I can leave my car on my trailer in the shop, but it takes up space I wish I had. Chances are you won't be buying another trailer soon, so think in the long term.
Good luck
Ken

[Jim V.]

Re: Trailers....

Hello Randy,

Just got off the phone with Randy C. at Trailex. I can get a featherlite 3110 for $4300, while the Trailex bolted CT7541 (perfect for c2) runs $4560, and their welded larger trailer runs $4425. They all are very similar with the bolted having the least weight. Lastly, the big buck enclosed is sure tugin at my purse strings..with the versatility of high retained value, security, and doubling as a storage garage to boot. I can pick up an R&R alum. open used for $3500 with the ramps doubling as a rock shield. As you can tell by now, there are too many choices.....

Thanks

[Jim V.]

Re: Trailers....

Sage advice...long term... Like the double duty of enclosed....Sure like the pluses of the enclosed Trailex. The initial cost is a killer however.

thanks ken!

[Stephen L.]

Re: Trailers....

I recently purchased an enclosed Haulmark. Most of the time it sits in the yard so fuel mileage wasn't high on the list of negatives. Having additional storage space is a major plus!!!!! You can purchase an enclosed bare bones for around $5000. I bought one large enough to haul a standard length car... If I ever want to sell it that become an issue if the trailer is short... and the cost differential isn't that much. I outfitted it with a winch rather than an escape door (about the same price) because now if I need to haul something that doesn't run I can still get it into the trailer with ease.

[mike cobine]

Re: Trailers....

I know you are really after that aluminum trailer, but check the actual empty weight on it. You may find it isn't lighter than many steel trailers. This is because to get the same stiffness, they have to use more aluminum. And they still use steel in several critical places.

My 15 ft Econo is 1350 lbs empty. How much is that Trailex?

http://www.tptrailersinc.com/OpenCarHaulers/EconoTrailers.htm

Econo-Trailer (Dively Mfg.) Tim Malie 129 Ridge Road Charleroi, PA 15022 (412) 929-3519 (Shop) (412) 239-3458 (Home)

they had a website but I can't find it now.

The 16 ft Trailex open trailer:
CT-8060 1100 LBS 6000 LBS 8060SB $6,480.00 8060EB $6,280.00

http://www.trailex.com/viewprod.cfm?id=21&mcat=92&cat_id=92

Empty weight is 1100 vs my 1350. However, they are $6280 vs my $1200 used. Hmmm, I can buy a LOT of gas for $5000.

This isn't so much an endorsement of Economy as it is to look around,t here are trialers just as light in steel and they are MUCH cheaper than aluminum.

[Jim V.]

Re: Liiiiiiiiiiiiiiigth Trailers....

I hear ya Mike. Trailex has an lower end (not exactly) welded alum. open trailer that weighs 1100lbs ($4425), and a smaller bolted CT7541 at 895lbs for $4560. Although the opens have obvious advantages, I am thinking more towards the enclosed, where Trailex has the only nice but PRICEY solution. I would think the market for minimalistic, fuel efficient, low weight, enclosed trailers would be more competitive. The trailex enclosed solution is a wopping 15k!!!!!!!!

Anyhow...I have to get my head straight on what exactly I am trying to do. Casual or heavy use...I am semi-retired and thinking of moving cars for hire. Well see....

[mike cobine]

Re: Liiiiiiiiiiiiiiigth Trailers....

Moving cars for hire puts a whole new spin on it. You want a trailer that will stand up to lots of road use. Most hobbyist trailers are built with an expected amount of use. Racing trailers tend to be built heavier due to having more usage and heavier loads due to tools, spares, etc.

Then there are things like commercial driver's licensing, business licensing, insurance, liability, etc. It always sounds good, but in the end, it is work. I've hauled cars for friends for money, but if I went more than that, it becomes a hassle with all the items mentioned above.

[Jim V.]

Re: Liiiiiiiiiiiiiiigth Trailers....

Nothing is simple!!! I have more homework to do...

[William N.]

Re: Liiiiiiiiiiiiiiigth Trailers....

I have had a Haulmark, three Triple B low profile and an Aluminum Trailer Company and the low profile Triple B was the easiest to haul. Enclosed and it was reasonably priced. At 7 ft tall or a couple of inches lower I could get it into my garage to store for the winter. (Garage is 28 ft deep.)

I towed it with Tahoes, Suburbans, a G van , and even an S10 pickup once.

My first was a used one that they found me as I expressed interest in a used unit. Later I treaded for a new one.
Triple B in Mascotah, IL I think.

[Gary C.]

Enclosed Trailer Lo Boy & Door Clearance

Jim, have a Wells Cargo Autowagon with nose cone and low height that's towed thousands of miles. Tows like a dream with not much wind resistance due to the low height and nose cone. Make sure any trailer you purchase has a long tongue draw, preferrably 36 inches, to prevent swaying back and forth. Will need an equalizer hitch with an anti sway bar for safest towing. Also, make sure a C1/C2/C3 door with open over the fender wheel well both on an open and enclosed trailer. Enclosed should have a Driver's side door to permit opening of Corvette door without banging the side. Good luck, Gary....

[Michael S.]

Re: Trailers....

I always suggest buying a "high" end used trailer. You will not save any money over buying a new low end trailer however you will get a much better piece of equipment. Cheap trailers are just that, cheap in price and construction. Go look at your average enclosed Haulmark, Pace etc after 2 years. The color is faded and sides look like a washboard. Go look at an early 90's Featherlite with 150K miles. Sure the paint is faded however the structure is still excellent. The difference is obvious.

If resale is ever in your mind buy a 24 foot trailer. The racers all think they need a 24 foot trailer and racers are by far the largest market for enclosed trailers. An 18 foot is all you really will ever need as it will haul a Corvette, Chevelle and a Monte Carlo. The Monte is a large car. Make sure the trailer has 5300lb axles on any trailer over 18 feet. Look for a low 6 foot roof. Most are the standard 6 1/2 feet tall. This makes a huge difference however 6 foot ceiling used/new trailers are hard to find.

If you are anywhere near NC, call around to the NASCAR shops or the trailer sales facilities. Many of those shops purchased 22 foot long 5 1/2 ceiling Featherlite trailers in the early/mid 90's for Cup show cars and local transport. These car fabulous enclosed trailers that may require a little work however they are well built and are superb behind a truck like an F150. Expect to pay $3500-$5000 for one of these old trailers. They are well worth the money.

I personally do not like the open aluminum trailers. They bounce down the highway way to much empty. I purchased an aluminum Featherlite open trailer once and sold it 3 weeks later. If you are looking for a good steel open trailer, try Special Carriers in Murray KY, Hodges in Paducah KY or Imperial Trailers in Olney Ill. They build 1 car trailers however their major business is bigger trailers for commercial use. They all make an EXCELLENT product.

Trailerworld in Bowling Green KY also has a well made steel open trailer but I am not sure if Richard is still manufacturing these at his facility as in the past. Trailerworld previously built in their shop SUPERB enclosed trailers in their "Super Duty" line however Richard discontinued production of these years ago. You will still see many vendors with "Super Duty" trailers that are well over 15 years old and the owner will still not sell the trailer. Trailerworld also a good source for a used trailer however their forte is selling new cheap trailers like everyone else!

I have 3 high end trailers all purchased used. One single car open trailer, one 2 car open trailer and a stainless steel enclosed trailer. All 3 will bring the same money or more than I paid for each years ago. I have owned the enclosed trailer over 13 years. Good equipment holds its value!

The biggest issue with buying used is patience! Good used trailers are everywhere when you are not looking and nowhere to be found when you are looking. If you buy new, spend the money and buy a high end trailer. Expect to pay $3-$5K for a good high end open trailer and $10-$12 for a good high end enclosed trailer. The Trailex is a nice trailer for a Corvette. Maybe not for a lot of other cars or uses around the house. Consider this fact when making a purchase.

If I had to have only 1 trailer there is NO DOUBT that it would be an open trailer. Much more versatile in use for things beside cars.

[mike cobine]

Re: Trailers....

Mike brings up lots of very good points.

When you go look at a trailer, take your tow vehicle. Ask to hook up to it. Some set the tongue so low that you may have it riding nose high even with a 6 inch dropped hitch.

Check if you can open your tailgate, rear doors. Most put the jack right on the coupler and it is in the way of the tailgate or rear doors. While many think they can live it it, try stopping on the side of the Interstate and getting something out of the back of the tow vehicle.

I prefer a long tongue. Some build with a long tongue but hide part of it underneath the front of the trailer box or ramps, so effectively, you have a short tongue. The longer tongue helps avoid unsightly dents in your rear quarter panels.

Axle placement. Many put the axles nearly center of the deck on short open trailers, figuring the engine weight will load the tongue the proper amount. But if I had a dollar for every mile I have towed a car on the trailer facing the rear, I'd have a new Corvette and pay someone to haul the old ones. Find an old Corvette in a barn, pull a broken one out of a garage, break one at the track, etc., they aren't always pointed with their nose at the trailer when you need to pick them up. And then there are rolling bodies with no engines. So I like the axles back a bit more. Builders often avoid this because buyers like to lift the empty tongue and move it by hand like a pop-up camper, but I'd rather move the car forward or backward a foot to make the weight right, rather than have one you are always forward on.

Ground clearance. Almost everyone want a low rear deck so that you have short ramps and low angle, but when you drag in a parking lot, it is a nuisance. When you drag in a field, you may be stuck. Long ramps may be a hassle but waiting for a wrecker to pull you out isn't exactly fun, either. Or cheap when he finds you have a trailer on back.

If you hate carrying long ramps to the trailer, and I do, get them installed under the ramps so they are pull-outs to avoid having to lift them.

Also, many advertise "4 ft dovetail" like that is great. For most, that is just wasted space. Often the dovetail is behind where you can place the car for travel so it is extra steel hanging out there. It isn't a storage area where you can tie extra parts to haul home, because they can often disappear and you not know that for a 1000 miles. Consider whatever part of the trailer behind the car as dead space.

Brakes. Legally, where brakes are required, brakes really are required on all four wheels. However, some states don't require brakes at all. Most open trailer builders put them only on one axles and usually the rear. That is the wrong spot. You want the front because the time you REALLY need those brakes is when the trailer breaks loose and your break-away needs to brake the trailer to a stop. When that happens, the tongue is sliding on the pavement, and the rear axle is nearly off the ground, or it may be off, depending on the axle equalizer. Either way, the weight is mainly on the front axle and all the real braking force is on the front. Ride a motorcycle; you will see what I mean immediately.

If you haven't driven with a trailer before, buy 100 16 oz plastic cups. Take it and a bag of sand to a big empty parking lot. Set up lanes with the cups with an inch of sand in them so they don't blow away and practice driving through them, making turns, and backing.

[Ken A.]

Re: Enclosed Trailer Lo Boy & Door Clearance

Gary

Good point about door clearance over the fenders. Some trailers have removable fenders for just that reason. To me that's a pain, and you have to park the car where the door will open between the wheels. On my open trailer, my stock 69 will clear the fender, but my 72 autocross car that has been lowered, just barely doesn't. I mounted 2x10's to my trailer to raise the car to clear the fenders. Since the race car is now the predominate reason for the trailer, it's not a problem, but something that came about after I had the trailer, so I had to come up with a solution.

Another thing to check is the tie downs. Don't know about the enclosed, but the open trailers usually have tie rings welded to the bed. Make sure they are done right and not just spot welded in place. Remember, this is what is going to keep your car on the trailer and not moving around, which is not only bad for the car on the trailer, but also for your health!

What you use to tie the car down also needs to be considered. A lot of people use straps, but I prefer chains. In my case, since the trailer is basically single use, I had my front chains and hooks welded the right length so there is never any guessing. I cross the rear chains with chain binders and a clip to keep them from coming loose. I tow about 25 times a year and I've been to Utah, Nevada and Arizona from the Sacramento area with never a problem.

One plus for the open trailer. When you are towing, other drivers can see your car, and I get a lot of thumbs up with my race car. OK, that's the ego part, but what the hell, why not?

Ken