Exhaust Manifold Studs

[mike cobine]

Re: Save yourself a lot of trouble

You say you have a big block with air and your last post said you were pulling the heads next. I don't know if you can even get the right head out with the air box in there. I know I can't get anything big enough to get the bolts out on my 427 with air. I don't think I can get the right exhaust off of mine.

If you aren't pulling the heads, then keep the engine in.

Still, it seems extreme, but for most things, you can have it out with a little over 2 dozen bolts and have it where everything is easy to fix.

It mainly depends on what you are taking off.

[Mike McKown]

I don't understand this one.

Pull the engine for a 1 hour job?

[mike cobine]

Re: I don't understand this one.

Lee's note said:
I'll be removing the cylinder head next. I'm stuck in the restoration vortex!

Looking at my '68 427 with air to compare the space on his 454 with air, I'd say he would have a LOT more than a 1 hour job at pulling the heads. In fact, you should look at pulling the right exhaust manifold. You will not get a ratchet in there with a 1/2 inch drive socket to get the manifold bolts out.

Based on that, pulling the engine isn't a bad idea.

If you have a friend, you can have it out in under a couple of hours. With 5 guys once, we pulled my 427 out of my '66 in under 45 minutes, and that included the slow procedure of the little wrench on the header bolts. Three of the 5 guys had never worked on a Chevy before.

[Gary #41345]

Re: I don't understand this one.

45 mins??? Wow you have a future in the show "Overhauling"

[Lee S.]

STOP!!!!

This is getting out of control. The comment was:

" I fear my attempts to remove the manifold will lead to stripped bolts retaining the manifold to the cylinder head. I'll be removing the cylinder head next. I'm stuck in the restoration vortex! "

This is satire. At times, it seems for every part I remove to repair/restore, the next piece has a problem, and then the next, and then the next, etc. This is the restoration vortex! You just keep getting sucked in further. Just to clear things up, I am not removing cylinder heads. Nor am I removing the engine.

Last night, I cleaned up the threads with a 3/8 x 16 die and attached the exhaust pipe using new stainless bolts. One stud can only be tightened marginally. If there isn't a small exhaust leak here, there will be one soon. At least the car will be back together and I can drive it to the local muffler shop. He does a lot of custom work on street rods, muscle cars, etc. I'm sure he can get the three studs out without taking desperate measures.

I apologize for any confusion I caused here. I am also appreciative of the help and guidance.

[mike cobine]

Re: I don't understand this one.

Well, we were a bit slow. One guy and I had just gotten back from retrieving my Suburban in Stuart, FL with a dead Turbo 400 on a trailer it didn't fit on and the others had been pulling the engine and transaxle out of a Sport Renault. So everyone was ready for lunch and I knew we had to get it out before lunch or else we never would return.

It helps to have the car already in the air on jack stands and to have air tools. The slowest part is taking the headers off, because most of the header bolts on a big block you can only get with an open end wrench. we didn't remove the headers, just pulled them to the side. It can take a day to get the driver's side in. :-)

[mike cobine]

Re: STOP!!!!

I couldn't decide which way you meant, that if you tried doing the studs, you'd end up taking the heads off or if taking the heads off was the next stage of your restoration.

Now if you pulled the engine, you could really do a great job detailing the engine compartment. :-)

And detailing the engine.

And you could get to those front suspension bushings better. (I had to remove the fuel pump to remove the top passenger side a-arm.)

And well, what the heck, if you pull the body, you can get to the rear suspension so much easier.

And you know that brake lines and the fuel line is so much easier to take care of.

And while the body is off, now is a good time to clean the underside.

But you should probably paint it first.

Well, if you are going to paint, pull the interior out to do a good job.

And if the interior is out, you should just replace with new.

And ...

[William V.]

Re: Exhaust Manifold Studs

Lee

If I understand correctly, one of your concerns is the removal of the exhaust manifold to head - bolts. I have removed many of these bolts on many different cars in the past 40+ years and don't remember any problem with seizing or braking. On the other hand I have seen many broken exhaust manifold studs. Fixing the studs while on the car is a real problem. Therefore, I urge you to remove the exhaust manifolds and either fix the studs yourself or bringing them to a shop for repair and as suggested with the manifolds removed they can be easly cleaned and dressed. Just make sure the French lock tabs are straightened to allow a good grip with the socket. I do suggest replacing the locks. Give it a try. I bet you'll find it easier than you think.

Bill

[Lee S.]

Exhaust Manifold Studs - Update/Last Posting

Mike Cobine... I think you get the picture.

Thanks to all. The final outcome is: I loosened the center hanger clamp, loosened the rear hanger clamp, and removed the nuts off all of the LS manifold studs. Using a floor jack and a block of wood, I put light pressure on the exhaust pipe retainer flange right at the questionable stud and very carefully tigtened the nut only to the point where all threads on the nut gripped the stud. I lowered the jack and attached the other two studs tighting them very carefully. I made one last pass at each stud ensuring they were evenly tightened. I reattached the clamps at the transmission hanger and rear hanger.

During reassembly I noted there was an exhaust leak on both sides at the transmission hanger clamps.

I am pleased to advise that the exhaust system now has no leaks and is quieter. In fact, I am somewhat disappointed as it is too quiet! However, there is still no doubt that there is a big block under the hood (with a few hidden secrets).

I still plan on removing the manifold this winter to replace the studs. All three studs on the RS came out easy and were reinserted with fresh anti-sieze. Again, thanks to all.

[mike cobine]

Re: Exhaust Manifold Studs - Update/Last Posting

One thing I don't think anyone mentioned is that there are long brass nuts available that give many more threads to grip. This helps prevent losing a few threads up close, as these are roughly double or more the depth of a regular nut. A good car parts store will have them, like Car quest, NAPA, etc.

You can also buy couplers, essentially a long hexagon barrel that is threaded for the size you need. This gives it a chance to grip lots of threads and are about the depth of 4 regular nuts. I believe Lowe's and TruValue have those.