I have a 72 LT-1 with factory a/c that overheats in traffic in the summertime with the a/c on. I'm trying to decide weather to buy a new copper and brass (3018803 or equivalent) or overhaul the radiator that is in the car. The part number tag says my radiator is a 3019190, which I believe came out of a 67 big block (L-88?). Is this radiator worth anything to a restorer? Will it cool any better than a new replacement from say, Dewitts, if I get it overhauled or recored? Or better yet, can I finance a new aluminum radiator by selling it on ebay. It IS from a 67 after all.
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Re: Big Block radiator in an LT-1
My Parts & Accessories Manual says the 3019190 radiator was originally used in 70-72 BB w/o A/C w A/T applications. The 3018802 radiator is the equivalent for 69-72 SB with A/T and the 3018803 is for 69 SB w A/C and w/o A/T. -
Re: Big Block radiator in an LT-1
Gary if your 72 LT-1 one has all the factory emmission stuff still hooked up you could by pass the solenoid that controls vacuum to the distributor and run a vacuum line from full time source of vacuum from the carb to the distributor. This should give you a cooler runing enging in traffic with full time vacuum to the distributor.Comment
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Re: Big Block radiator in an LT-1
You said a couple of things that triggered memories of my 66 L79 radiator and overheating issues. If you do have your original and unrestored radiator, then it is 33 years old and may only be operating at a greatly reduced capacity. The green Prestone-type of antifreeze will precipitate out over time and cause the radiator to fill up from the bottom. There isn't any known cure short of recoring. I have a local radiator shop, owned and operated by a 63 Corvette owner who claims he can recore my 72 radiator (when I need it) for a very respectable cost, IIRC it was under $300. He says that the recoring will look original and pass NCRS muster. I can't comment on that, but I will let other chime in here on that. Again, from memory, I believe DeWitts offers recoring for our original radiators.
The other thing you mention is that the car overheats in traffic. I have always used the concept that if it overheats in traffic, then you have, in possible comibination with a partially clogged rad, a bad or failing fan clutch. If it overheats on the highway only, then it is just the rad. After you drive your car and then shut down the engine, how long does it take the fan to stop spinning? Check the archives because there is a lot of information on this and the possibility of having it rebuilt. From the archives, I think that the only person currently rebuilding these is Fred Oliva, but it is a slow process.
FWIW, my 72 LT1 ran right at 190-195 all day long. Once the engine was warm, the temp needle NEVER moved. I bought an IR gun and verified that the temp is correct before I looked at trying to lower the temperature 10-15 degrees.
What are your symptoms of overheating?
Gary
72 LT1Comment
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Re: Big Block radiator in an LT-1
Gary-----
The copper-brass radiator used for all 1972 LT-1's can be easily recored. However, the aluminum radiator used for all 1963-67 small blocks and many 68-72 small blocks with manual transmission can not be recored.In Appreciation of John HinckleyComment
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Re: Big Block radiator in an LT-1
Gary-----
The GM #3019190 radiator was NOT originally used for any 1967 Corvettes. It was used in PRODUCTION only for 1969-72 Corvettes with big block and automatic transmission. This includes 1969 L-88 with THM-400 (those few ever made). It was also sold in SERVICE for many years to replace ALL 1969-72 big block applications except L-88 with 4 speed.
The 3019190 has a somewhat higher cooling capacity than the GM #3018803 that was originally used for your application. However, the curious thing here is that the GM #3018803 radiator uses an integral filler and cap mounted on the right side tank. The 3019190 uses NO integral filler and cap. So, if a 3019190 radiator is retrofitted to a 1972 LT-1, then the external supply tank MUST also be retrofitted.
The 3019190 and 3018803 also use slightly different radiator supports. The primary difference is the location of the "stirrup" brackets, both lower (welded) and upper (bolted). In addition, the upper and lower hoses for the 3019190 with big block and 3018803 with small block are of different configuration (and part number).In Appreciation of John HinckleyComment
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Re: Big Block radiator in an LT-1
I replaced the fan clutch a few years ago, so it is good. No, fan doesn't keep spining ater shutdown. Also, no emissions stuff. Vacuum hose goes straight from the carb to the MSD distributor. Sounds like I need to get the right radiator. Anybody in desperate need of a 3019190?Comment
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Re: Big Block radiator in an LT-1
Gary-----
Not me. I've got plenty of NOS examples of the GM #3019190 [none for sale].In Appreciation of John HinckleyComment
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Re: Big Block radiator in an LT-1
So, back to my original question. Should I get this big block radiator recored and use it, or get a new radiator? Will this radiator cool better than a replacement small block copper and brass radiator? By the way, this radiator is for an automatic. Has the oil cooler (plugged). If new is the way to go, then where is the best(reasonable price) place to get one. Doesn't have to pass NCRS inspection. Thanks guys, for your advice.Comment
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Re: Big Block radiator in an LT-1
Gary------
Functionally, it will work fine. So, if all you care about is functionality, get it recored and you should be all set.In Appreciation of John HinckleyComment
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