64 Half shafts

[Jack J.]

Before I disassemble the shafts to replace the U-joints,do I need to identify/mark which end the wheel flange came off of. Thanks in advance.

[Joe L.]

Re: 64 Half shafts

Jack-----

It's not really important, but I usually do it, anyway.

[Jack J.]

Re: 64 Half shafts

Thanks Joe. I did mark them but now I have a bigger dilema. I now have a flange removed from the half shaft but I can't go either way with the other half of the u-joint which is stuck in the flange ears. It appears the ears are galled up internally. The flange definitely has a slight bow to it. At this point is the flange salvageable or do I risk the possibility of failure down the road even if I should get the other half of the u-joint out? I won't know if the flange will spring back flat until the u-joint is removed. Any and all help would be greatly appreciated. It is a Spicer flange and the other flange came out OK.

[Patrick H.]

Re: 64 Half shafts

Use a cutting torch and burn out the u-joint, or have a driveshaft shop do it. Problem then solved, but once it's all apart check the flange to be sure it's not bent. If it is, unless you can have the driveshaft shop straighten it you'll need a new one.

Patrick

[Jack J.]

Re: 64 Half shafts

Update-I was able to remove the u-joint from the flange. There is some noticable galling in one of the ears but I think that it can be cleaned up? The flange has a 1/8 -3/16 bow in it. I will try to take the bow out by bolting the flange down onto a steel plate with a piece of steel at the apex of the distortion thus hoping to flatten out the flange.

[John H.]

Re: 64 Half shafts

The outboard drive flange should always have either another flange or a steel plate bolted to it before removing/installing a U-joint in order to avoid bending the flange.

[Jack J.]

Re: 64 Half shafts

Thanks John. In light of what I've done to the flange, what would be your recommendation/opinion as to the flange's structural integrity even if I am able to restore the face flat?

[Craig S.]

Re: 64 Half shafts

Jack - I suspect it will take some degree of "overbending" the opposite way to achieve a flat condition again, simply bolting it to a flat plate or flange pobably won't take out all the sprung condition. Personally, I would prefer to get a different flange, but I expect you can straighten it back. To me, for peace of mind, I would spend the $40 or so to get another......Craig

[Joe L.]

Re: 64 Half shafts

Jack-----

If the flange has the word "Spicer" embossed on it, it's not an original flange, anyway. The original flanges used for 1963 and 1964-74 Corvettes were not manufactured by Spicer. At least, that brand name appeared nowhere on the piece. Beginning in 1975 u-joint flanges manufactured by Spicer began to be used in PRODUCTION. Shortly thereafter, these flanges became the SERVICE flange for all 1963-74 models, too.

The 1963-only flange was made from cast nodular iron, is larger in cross section, but is the weakest of all of the flanges. The 1964-74 flange was forged steel as was the 75-79 flange manufactured by Spicer.

[Jack J.]

Re: 64 Half shafts

Joe, thanks for your valuable and interesting info. The flanges with their attached half shafts and 4.11 rearend came from an early 64 "donor" rolling chasis that I purchased primarily for the frame since my original frame is severely rusted. Makes me wonder how much "spirited" driving the previous owner did in his youth? So this forces me to remove the flanges from my original drive train, the first step in the disassembly of my frame which I'm sure will make my wife happy. Thanks to all who responded to my questions and contributed advice and recommendations. Jack J.