C2 - Coil Spring Installtion Help!

**Mike G.** · August 13, 2005, 11:31 AM

Re: C2 - Coil Spring Installtion Help!

Rory: there's been a lot written about this nasty little task, which can be extremely dangerous if you don't take care. I use the internal spring compressor with the only the top set of hooks, and go through the lower control arm. A 2 by 2 inch piece of 1/4" plate with a center hole goes in place of the lower hooks and allows you to compress the spring downward onto the lower control arm.

Now you do need to compress the spring into a banana shape. The secret is to place the SHORT hook onto the spring (inboard side) HIGHER than the LONG hook. This has the effect of compressing the inboard side more than the outboard, giving you the curvature needed to seat into the upper pocket.

But, I do recommend an archives search. Others report excellent results going thru the upper shock hole, using a longer piece of (hardened) rod, sitting on a wheel bearing to bush the upper hole. If you can find the tool-grade rod, that might be worth exploring.

**Rob A.** · August 13, 2005, 12:57 PM

Re: C2 - Coil Spring Installtion Help!

Mike,

Do check the archives...I posted one regarding using an AutoZone spring compressor inserted from the top, using one set of hooks. Like Mike said, the trick is using the hooks in such a manner as to compress the spring in the right curve to fit into position in the lower "a arm". You'll see as you begin to compress it if you've arranged the hooks correctly. Use the older spring compressor from AutoZone, their newer one has bigger hooks that can't be removed through the hole in the lower "a arm" after installation. (I found that out the hard way) The older compressor works well, I've used it several times. Use a large plastic washer as a bearing under the head of the threaded rod. While compressing the spring, as soon as possible, position the lower "a arm" under the spring and use a floor jack to keep it positioned as you continue to compress the spring.

**Robert Pelland** · August 14, 2005, 09:08 AM

Re: C2 - Coil Spring Installtion Help!

Here is a much easier, and safer solution, to a springy problem. There is really no need for any store bought spring compressors, with their hook's and associated installation issues to do the job. All that is needed is a short lenght of 1/2" threaded rod between 24" to 30" in length, and a small 3" by 3" thick metal plate, with a hole drilled through the center to insert the rod.

Start be replacing the shock absorber with the section of 1/2" threaded rod. At the bottom, insert your metal plate through the rod, and then lock it in place with a few nuts on each side. Then while holding it in place so it doesen't fall to the garage floor, insert a couple of lubricated flat washers at the top of the rod, followed by another nut. Now all that is needed is to tighten down the nut at the top to compress the spring so that the spindle can be realeased.

You actually do not need much spring compression to do so. My trick is to remove the cotter pins and loosen both nuts on the spindle a few turns. Then watch the top A-arm very carefully as you start to tighten the nut at the top of the threaded rod. The minute the top A-arm starts to rise, enough pressure has been applied to the spring, and both castle nuts can be safely removed. Do the pickle fork thing to both joints, and then slowley release the pressure by loosning the nut at the top end of the rod so that the complete assemble can safely be lowered to the ground.

This method is much safer as keeps the spring captive by the threaded rod running it's complete length, and if anything goes wrong the spring will not flip out at 300mph, taking your head off in the process.

There are certainly other ways to do this job, but this method in the past has prouved to be the safest, least expensive, and fastest way to remove the springs.

Good luck with your choices
Bob

**Rob A.** · August 14, 2005, 09:55 AM

Re: C2 - Coil Spring Installtion Help!

Bob,

The spring compressor tool,both new & old style is a "free" loaner from AutoZone. I'm wondereing how your method creates the curve needed to put the spring into the lower "a arm"? If you compress it straight it won't line up.

**Robert Pelland** · August 14, 2005, 10:47 AM

Re: C2 - Coil Spring Installation Help!

Rob,

The spring actually needs very little compression in order to raise the upper A-arm, certainly not enough to put any curve in the spring. During installation, with a very small amount of wiggle, it becomes very easy to insert the lower coil of the spring into the spring pocket.

However that being said, you may ultimately use what ever tools you see fit in order to do the job.

As far as how successful my method is, well Rob, in the very least I have removed/installed this type of coil springs more then 30 times in the past, and that, without any trouble what so ever, so contrary to what some people may think, IT ACTUALLY DOES WORK.

That's it for me Rob, so good luck with what ever way you choose to do the labour.

Robert

**Rob A.** · August 14, 2005, 05:33 PM

Thanks for the additional info... *NM*

**Rory Riedy** · August 15, 2005, 11:40 AM

C2 - Coil Spring Installtion Help!

Bob,

First thanks for your response. It is very much appreciated.

I can see how your method (all thread rod through the upper & lower control arms)works in decompressing the spring to allow removal of the spindle. It then stays in place with the spring seated in the both the upper & lower seats until the spindle is replaced. What I don't understand is how your method works when you completely remove the spring for reconditioning.

Have you used your method when the springs are removed completely.

If so can you spell out the exact steps you used.

It would be greatly appreciated by me & I would guess many others.

Thanks

Triple R

**Robert Pelland** · August 15, 2005, 02:21 PM

Re: C2 - Coil Spring Installation Help!

I'm sorry if my explanation was not clear enough to be properly understood, so here goes another try. Once the spindle has been removed, ( you only need to remove one end for spring replacement ) all that you need to do is continue to loosen the nut at the top, and this will eventually completely release all the tension that the spring is under. Then all that is left for you to do will be to completely remove the rod, and then the spring can be pulled out of the spring pocket.

To re-assemble, it's just as easily done, by reversing the above procedure.

Good luck
Bob

**Chas Henderson #28127** · August 18, 2005, 08:27 PM

Re: C2 - Coil Spring Installation Help!

I have used this method on my 71 and I never worked on cars or did this before.
I felt pretty safe as the rod was long enough that the spring could be total unsprung. After I cleaned and painted all my suspention parts, I used the reversal of what I did, to properly align up the coil in the pocket, tighten it up enough to easily attach the knuckle, and reattach the a-arms. I used a 3/4 threaded rod with two steel plates 1/4 thick. I had two nuts that were twice the thickness of regular nuts, and a regular nutwelded on one end of the rod so all I did was turn the thick nut to apply or release pressure on the coil. The other nice thing about this method, is it goes through the shock hole and out the bottom of the a-arm, and it allows you to loosen the arm (after you release the pressure on the coil) with everything still attached.

Chasman

**Robert Pelland** · August 18, 2005, 08:35 PM

Re: C2 - Coil Spring Installation Help!

Chasmen,

I'am glad to see that the threaded rod method, also worked well for you. The additionnel nuts and plates would be a welcome addition to the safety factor.

regards
Bob
a.k.a. Stepinwolf

C2 - Coil Spring Installtion Help!

C2 - Coil Spring Installtion Help!

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