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Steering Knuckle seperation

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  • Jack J.
    Expired
    • July 31, 2000
    • 640

    Steering Knuckle seperation

    Starting to tear down my used 64 frame's front suspension. I want to know if there is a better way to seperate the upper and lower ball joints from the steering knuckle rather then using a pickle fork? The ball joints appear to be original and I don't want to damage them if they are still functional. Thanks in advance.
  • Joe L.
    Beyond Control Poster
    • February 1, 1988
    • 43203

    #2
    Re: Steering Knuckle seperation

    Jack-----

    There's a very good chance that the upper ball joints will be ok. For the lower ones, I sort of doubt it. But, with low miles they could be alright.

    In any event, yes, there is a way to remove the ball joints without using a pickle fork. You can use a press-type ball joint remover. This is a 2 jaw press sized for ball joint removal. It can be used for tie rod ends, too. I use one manufactured by Old Forge (in the USA, believe it or not). It's about a $60 item and is fairly widely available. It will remove a ball joint with no damage, at all.

    Some folks use the "two hammer" method as decribed in the Chevrolet Service Manual and many aftermarket manuals. I've never been able to get this to work for me, but others have reported great success so it may be worth a try. You probably already have 2 hammers, so you don't need to buy anything to see if it works for you.
    In Appreciation of John Hinckley

    Comment

    • Eugene B.
      Very Frequent User
      • May 31, 1988
      • 710

      #3
      Re: Steering Knuckle seperation

      Jack,
      Before investing any money in tools, spend the best $20 that you will ever spend and buy a copy of the Van Steel Suspension Video. It deals with removing front and rear suspension and brakes, etc.

      I followed Art Dorsett's advice when I disassembled my '65 last year and it was excellent and easy to follow. Give them a call at (800) 418-5397.

      Good luck and work safely.

      Regards,
      Gene

      Comment

      • Mike McKown

        #4
        Re: Steering Knuckle seperation

        The two hammer method works well for me but be advised if you "miss" you can cut a boot.

        Comment

        • Rory Riedy

          #5
          Steering Knuckle Seperation - "2 HAMMER" ?

          COULD SOME ONE EXPLAIN TO A NOVICE EXACTLY WHAT THE "TWO HAMMER METHOD" IS? NEVER HEARD THIS EXPRESSION BEFORE.

          THANKS,

          TRIPLE R

          Comment

          • Duke W.
            Beyond Control Poster
            • January 1, 1993
            • 15649

            #6
            Re: Steering Knuckle Seperation - "2 HAMMER" ?

            You can use either one or two. Whack the side(s) of the knuckle adjacent to the stud hole with a BFH or use two and whack opposite sides simultaeously.

            The hammer blows will probably leave a slight flat spot, but the chance of damaging the knuckle are close to nil.

            Be sure the shock absorber is installed when breaking the bottom ball joint loose since it limits rebound travel and will keep the spring compressed, and just to be absolutely safe, leave the ball joint stud nut attached but several turns loose until the stud breaks loose.

            Duke

            P.S. Please turn off your caps lock.

            Comment

            • Terry M.
              Beyond Control Poster
              • September 30, 1980
              • 15593

              #7
              Re: Steering Knuckle Seperation - "2 HAMMER" ?

              An alternate method is to hold one hammer (the larger if they are different sizes) hard against the opposite side from which one is striking. i.e. Use one as a backer. If there are enough people and enough access one person can hold the backer hammer and another can be the striker. That way both can use two hands. This method sometimes requires one to beat the snot out of it.

              There is a Kent-Moore tool that is essentially a fine thread bolt and a long nut. That tool can be placed between the two ball studs and the nut unscrewed to jack them apart. That tool is identified in the FSM, and works like a charm. The down side of that is KM is very proud of their tools.

              I have seen this tool shop-made also. Unfortunately, I no longer have access to the KM tool to offer any dimensions.
              Terry

              Comment

              • Duke W.
                Beyond Control Poster
                • January 1, 1993
                • 15649

                #8
                Re: Steering Knuckle Seperation - "2 HAMMER" ?

                I learned this trick when I watched a guy remove the knuckles from a 5000 mile Monza in a junkyard that I installed on my Cosworth Vega for the bigger (vented) brake rotors and companion larger diameter piston calipers.

                When I removed the OE knuckles from the CV I had the front lower A-arms on jackstands so the knuckle was well supported. I used a one-handed two pound sledge. The first one (lower) took three blows. The rest were done in two, but that was 25 years ago!

                Duke

                Comment

                • Mike McKown

                  #9
                  Re: Steering Knuckle Seperation - "2 HAMMER" ?

                  This method sometimes requires one to beat the snot out of it

                  If you hit it like you mean it, don't take but a few licks. You can't hit it like a tack hammer. Also, I have never seen the two hammer method used as beating on the knuckle on both sides. One side backs up the knuckle and you wale the h... out of it on the other. Or, just wale the the h... out of it on one side. You loosen the ball stud by about 2-3 threads on top and bottom joints and let the spring pressure work for you to pull it loose when you smack it. Cakewalk.

                  Comment

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