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Manifold Restoration

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  • Justin N.
    Expired
    • February 1, 2004
    • 318

    Manifold Restoration

    Dear Members,

    Through much info and many emails I decided against the Calyx because its creme/polish texture doesn't dry. Apparently it stays moist/wet until there needs to be another application. I foresee myself reaching for something in the engine bay and getting the stuff on my sleeve or hand or somewhere else just to annoy me.

    I went with the Por-15 manifold paint. About a year ago I wire-wheeled a three foot section of the front frame rail on my 67. I brushed on their frame/chassis paint and it was Bullet Proof! So, I stayed with Por-15 again.

    It does look like they have been painted, so I'll probably take a few deduct points, but I know the coating will be armor-like and this makes me feel good about fighting off rust.

    Justin #41362




    Attached Files
  • Gerard F.
    Extremely Frequent Poster
    • June 30, 2004
    • 3806

    #2
    C2:67 Removing Manifolds-First Time

    Got any tips in removing the exhaust manifolds for the first time on my 67 small block. My next project will be the exhaust system complete back to original.

    Jerry Fuccillo
    #42179
    Jerry Fuccillo
    1967 327/300 Convertible since 1968

    Comment

    • Gary S.
      Extremely Frequent Poster
      • July 31, 1992
      • 1632

      #3
      Re: C2:67 Removing Manifolds-First Time

      Jerry, liberally spray the locking nuts on your manifold with PB Blaster. Let it soak in for a while and reapply. Do this several times over the course of a day. If you are able to reach them, lightly tap them as you spray. This will help the penetrant get into the threads. Love the stuff.
      Gary

      Comment

      • Gerard F.
        Extremely Frequent Poster
        • June 30, 2004
        • 3806

        #4
        Re: C2:67 Removing Manifolds-First Time

        Gary,

        I used that PB blaster last year in trying to get 37 year old brake calipers off, it is good stuff. But you should have seen the fiasco in removings the caliper bolts in a tight garage with the car on floor jacks. No leverage and my back is still not the same.

        I finally had to resort to a propane torch to heat up the PB blasted bolts. Almost burned the garage down.

        But this time I'm planning ahead on the exhaust system and will be restoring the manifolds at the same time. My car will be 38 next week, and I thought I'd change the pipes and the cherry bombs, I had put on about 25 years ago.

        I'm thinking about one of those aluminized steel deluxe systems with the heat riser and clamps. This time I'm going to take it to a muffler shop for installation, but I'd like to do the manifolds myself.

        Any recommendations out there.

        Jerry Fuccillo
        #42179
        Jerry Fuccillo
        1967 327/300 Convertible since 1968

        Comment

        • Gary S.
          Extremely Frequent Poster
          • July 31, 1992
          • 1632

          #5
          Re: C2:67 Removing Manifolds-First Time

          Assuming your manifols are not anything more than light surface rust try cleaning them with a brass bristle brush. This IS VERY labor intensive but it doesn't alter the surface or appearance of the metal. Periodically wash them down with Simple Green (or your favorite garage soap) and rinse. Dry them off and brush again until the surface rust is gone. I am only talking VERY light surface rust here. Once they are clean, washed, rinsed and dry, spray them with PreLube 6 from Quanta Products. This is a trick that our own Patrick Hulst showed me. Put them on your car, fire up the engine and watch that beauty smoke. Once the PreLube 6 burns off, you should have a fair level of protection. I did this to my manifolds and a year later they were still good. The second year all I did was spray PreLube 6 on the manifolds, put the car in the garage and drove it the next morning. Great stuff. I don't know why or how it works but it does work.

          PreLube 6 is a heavy, industrial quality anti-rusting agent that can also be used on metal parts to keep rust from forming. I keep at least one can around the garage at all times.

          Gary

          Comment

          • Jeff S.
            Very Frequent User
            • July 31, 1984
            • 384

            #6
            Re: C2:67 Removing Manifolds-First Time

            Jerry

            I recently had excellent results using aerosol graphite lube (rattle can). Must be used on freshly bead-blasted (not sand!) exhaust manifold. Get it for about $10 at McMaster-Carr or other industrial supply house. Make sure you get graphite lube, not moly-disulphide. Good to 1000F & looks just like fresh cast gray iron; there's no 'paint' appearance to it at all. It goes on with a wet look, then dries/flashes over flat in about 15 seconds as the carrier evaporates. Thermal cycles don't seem to change the color or adhesion.

            Jeff

            Comment

            • Paul L.
              Expired
              • November 1, 2002
              • 1414

              #7
              Re: C2:67 Removing Manifolds-First Time

              Jeff,
              I use that graphite lube as well. Two treatments each summer. Perhaps not NCRS but it does look good!

              Comment

              • Larry L.
                Expired
                • May 31, 1993
                • 101

                #8
                Re: C2:67 Removing Manifolds-First Time

                To get rust off of anything, use Captin Lee's rust remover. It is phosphoric acid disolved in ethel glycole. It converts all iron oxide to a stable compound and leaves a nice gray phosphate coating that prevents rust.
                After you soak part, do not wash off with water but wash off with WD40 or Mineral Spirits (paint thinner), let them dry. After the manifolds have been hot they have a nice gray color that stays with them for years.

                On manifold studs that won't budge, soak them with this suff and the rust bond is borken and you can easily unscrew studs and fasteners.
                Use eye protection, and ruber gloves - it also removes paint - so be careful.
                Do not store in polyproplene buckets (white plastic food buckets) as it tends to disolve them. It,s expensive but last a long time.

                Larry Linder 22779

                Comment

                • Gerard F.
                  Extremely Frequent Poster
                  • June 30, 2004
                  • 3806

                  #9
                  Very Nice Paul,That's what I wanna do *NM*

                  Jerry Fuccillo
                  1967 327/300 Convertible since 1968

                  Comment

                  • John H.
                    Beyond Control Poster
                    • December 1, 1997
                    • 16513

                    #10
                    Re: C2:67 Removing Manifolds-First Time

                    When you re-install them, use anti-seize on the bolts so it won't be a struggle to get the manifold bolts out next time; they live in a tough environment.

                    Comment

                    • Terry F.
                      Expired
                      • September 30, 1992
                      • 2061

                      #11
                      Re: C2:67 Removing Manifolds-First Time

                      If the engine is still running, start the engine and let the cylinder heads get hot. Turn the engine off and loosen the manifold bolts. Once they break free you can hit them with wd-40 to desolve some of the crud on the threads. Soaking them may or may not help much since you need to reach the threads and they are way in there. I have never broken an exhaust manifold bolt off on a small block and I have done more than a couple handful.

                      Good luck, Terry

                      Comment

                      • James W.
                        Extremely Frequent Poster
                        • December 1, 1990
                        • 2655

                        #12
                        Re: Manifold Restoration

                        Justin,

                        They look great! Since my car is done being judged, I'd like to coat my exhaust manifilds with something that will last, but look like the original cast iron. Where did you buy the POR 15 manifold paint?

                        Thanks,

                        James West

                        Comment

                        • Jim Mitchell

                          #13
                          Re: C2:67 Removing Manifolds-First Time

                          Larry,

                          Where did you get the Captain Lee'srust remover? I've never heard of it, but am interested in trying it out. Does the company have a web site?

                          Comment

                          • Jack H.
                            Extremely Frequent Poster
                            • April 1, 1990
                            • 9906

                            #14
                            Fire up...

                            your Google search engine with "Captain Lee" + paint remover and you'll get quite a few hits!

                            Comment

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