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Re: C3 intake questions (ports &oil shield)
Travis
Is the head runner for this port oil soaked? (Or any of the other runners?) Looks like you cleaned the mating surface, so the gasket impression isn't visible.
You can remove the rivets. They are shaped in a way that they cut when installed to keep them attached. Some people tap the hole for screws, I reinstalled mine and had no problem with them holding. I recently removed them again to clean the intake and will use put them back. Definately remove the shield and get all that "baked on gunk", out of there -
Re: C3 intake questions (ports &oil shield)
Hi Dennis
Thanks for the reply.
Yes, I cleaned the gasket mating surface so the new gasket will seal.
None of the ports seem to be oil soaked at all; they all look the same including the one with the deformity. There has been some small amount of oil that has dripped down from the oil shield since have had the intake upside down for a while. Thats why it looks a little wet insde the port in the picture.
Why do you ask about oil being in the ports? I assume that if there was oil in the ports it would mean the intake did not have a good seal or was leaking?
TravisComment
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Re: C3 intake questions (ports &oil shield)
Hi Travis -
Bring this intake you your friendly local auto machine shop, and tell them you want it cleaned. They'll hot tank it and probably media blast it. They'll also remove the plate and replace it when they are done. Probably about $40, but it will look new.
Now about that defect, I have no idea what can be done there. An original factory defect!
PeteComment
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Re: C3 intake questions (ports &oil shield)
Travis
Finding a badly sealed intake is a common problem. I'm going through it with my 70 L-46 right now. When the intake doesn't "sit," or line up with the head, (for a variety of reasons), the oil gets sucked into the runners via the misalignment along the bottom of the intake ports.
I notice the distorted area of your #5 port is on the bottom edge. It's possible the gasket is covering all or most of this distortion. If you lay a gasket on the surface you may be able to check.
I also notice the edge of the shield is slightly bent over the edge of the intake. This may or may not be an issue, since at that point the head/intake surface may not be in contact. I can tell you that I needed to grind that exact spot from the shield because it did interfere. I don't think if you grind it back it will have any adverse effect. Good luck.Comment
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Re: C3 intake questions (ports &oil shield)
This almost looks like a casting blocked port in the picture because it appears so shallow for a port runner. I'll check my bi-focals.Comment
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Re: C3 intake questions (ports &oil shield)
william-----
That was exactly my impression, too, from the photo. The more I looked at it, the more it looked like that. The left side port, I could see the depth as I studied it. The right side port (with the chip) just looks like it's only about 1/4" deep.In Appreciation of John HinckleyComment
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Re: C3 intake questions (ports &oil shield)
How deep is this port, does it flow down and make a soft angle about 1" BELOW THE GASKET FACE. How did the #5 spark plug look? Joe, this sure looks diffrent then the normal.Comment
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Re: C3 intake questions (ports &oil shield)
figure you have a 3965577 cast iron intake. The 5 runner is shallow as is the 8. The 6 & 7 runners are steeper. From the top side the bulge of the 6 & 7 runner, (has the vacuum port tapped in the center), and the 5 & 8 runner on the underside completes the "X" shape of the two.Comment
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Re: C3 intake questions (ports &oil shield)
Hey Travis, I just looked at my 1974 intake #340261 and the #5 runner is shallow and #7 is deep (it's the photo angle that throws you off). If I can remember, it goes like this, #1 deep,#3 shallow,#5 shallow,#7 deep,#2 deep#4 shallow,#6 shallow,#8 deep,. It's too bad that intake looks @#$%#$%, so I don't know if I would use it again, but if you want to keep it and clean the intake this may help- you can use a thin flat screwdriver and place it under the tin plate right under the rivet, tap the end of the screwdriver handle(lightly) pushing it under the rivet and it will pop up.The rivet's can be re-used, and when put back, tap them in with a hammer. The heat sheild should be straightened at the four corners. It's that easy!!!!!Comment
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Re: C3 intake questions (ports &oil shield)
I cant remember right off hand what the number is but I think it is cast #3965577. Ill have to check. I know the last few digits are 5577.
Anyways, here is a different picture which should clear things up about the angles and it looking shallow. Everything appears normal with the exception of the port deformation.
The plugs were replace a few years ago and the ones I remove look brand new. The car hasnt been driven in a number of years.
Can anyone point me to a place to maybe get a new intake? I prefer to have the same casting.
I think Im going to also run it by a engine machine shop to see what they say. Maybe they can patch it?
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Re: C3 intake questions (ports &oil shield)
Your ports are fine. Mine look like that from the same angle.
I just saw the 5577 on ebay with a E-14-70 (may 14 1970). Sold for 40.00. Watch there for one.Would have been a perfect date for my F-16-70.Comment
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old junkyard
You can buy just about any cast iron SB intake in an old junkyard for about $25 to $50. The Corvette 350 intake was also used on the other cars so it's just a matter of digging through the pile.
Good luck,
MarkComment
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Re: C3 intake questions (ports &oil shield)
I wouldn't be comfortable re-using the original rivets; they're still available from GM under P/N 10229247 ("Pin - Eng Air Ht Shld") in a pack of ten - nice high, sharp splines on them, not likely to come out.Comment
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