C2 L79 No Sputtering - Just Dies

[Mark P.]

My 65 L79 just started dying. No sputter, no hesitation, just dies. I re-start it and it starts right up and then dies again after a few seconds. I wait a few minutes, then it will start and stay started enough to get home, but has died on the way home, too....sometimes goes a few miles sometimes a few blocks. Doesn't seem to matter if it is hot or cold.

It doesn't feel like a fuel issue. I was wondering if a coil does this if it is starting to go bad. Any thoughts from out there? Weather is turning warm and I can't stand not trusting my car to go for even a short drive. Any help or advice is greatly appreciated!!!!

Mark

[Clem Z.]

Re: C2 L79 No Sputtering - Just Dies

if it is the ignition system your plugs will be dark

[Jim T.]

Re: C2 L79 No Sputtering - Just Dies

Mark a long time ago, about 1976 my origianl owner 68 was doing something similiar to this. Walked home once and came back and it started and got it home. Checking all the ignition out found that one of the wire terminal on top of the coil was turning in the coil. Changed out the coil and it is still running outstanding today.

[Mark P.]

Re: C2 L79 No Sputtering - Just Dies

I'll try a new coil and see if that works. I can't imagine it being anything else, since everything looks to be fine. Thanks for the input. I'll let you know if it solves the problem.

Mark

[Clem Z.]

Re: C2 L79 No Sputtering - Just Dies

check the firewall electrical plug for corrison

[Wayne W.]

Re: C2 L79 No Sputtering - Just Dies

Both the coil and the bulkhead connector are good suggestions. If it is the connector everything in the car will also be dead.

[Mark P.]

Re: C2 L79 No Sputtering - Just Dies

Firewall connectors are perfect. No issues there. If it ends up not being the coil, I'll really be scratching my head. Thanks for the suggestions, though.

[Dave F.]

Re: C2 L79 No Sputtering - Just Dies

For what it's worth, I had exactly the same symptoms on an old pickup and it turned out to be the carb, not electrical at all. Weird but true

[Joe C.]

Re: C2 L79 No Sputtering - Just Dies

Mark:

I think that the best way to resolve it is to have your VOM handy when the engine dies. At that point, check for batt voltage at the coil.
Two more places to look, are the ballast resistor, and the ignition switch.

Joe

[Duke W.]

Re: C2 L79 No Sputtering - Just Dies

Also check that the dist ground circuit is intact. The ground wire soldered to the breaker plate will eventually break off due to strain from breaker plate rotation under the command of the vacuum advance. The points open and close the ground circuit. You can have 12V at the coil, but if the ground circuit is open it's just an open circuit and the points will never close the circuit even if they are operating perfectly.

Most of these cars have probably never had a good dist. overhaul, which would include a new breaker plate.

Duke

[Joe C.]

Re: C2 L79 No Sputtering - Just Dies

Mark:

I don't think that it is the coil. The reason I say that, is that you state that it restarts right away after it shuts down, and it quits at odd intervals. If the coil was suffering, it would have to overheat, and then cool down first in order to recover.

Joe

[Mark P.]

Re: C2 L79 No Sputtering - Just Dies

The first time it happened was after it heated up, but after that (it has happened only 3 times) it happened right off the bat. Makes me wonder. I was more convinced it was due to the coil until it happened after only one block. I did have one problem that may have contributed to it...I never had the issue until my positive battery cable slid over onto the exhaust manifold, melted through the shielding and and shorted out and shut the engine down. That may be part of it, it may not. After I replaced the cable, it ran fine.

[Joe C.]

Re: C2 L79 No Sputtering - Just Dies

Mark:

My very, very first thought, was that you have a broken wire somewhere, causing an intermittent problem. Now that you relate the battery cable incident, then that supports my very early belief.
Try this for a test, and temporary trial ONLY:

1. Use a fairly heavy gauge (10-14 GA wire, with alligator clips at both ends), and connect direct from the bat pos terminal to the ballast resistor input terminal. Start and run the car.

2. If the engine still quits, then:

3. Connect directly to the coil pos terminal.

4. If OK, then the ballast and/or the wire between the ballast and the coil is N.G. If not OK, then go after the ignition switch, the wire between the switch and the ballast,or the distributor ground circuit.

Joe

[Joe C.]

Addendum:

Eliminate:

In number 4. : "the ignition switch, the wire between the switch and the ballast,or "

in the above post.

Joe

[Mark P.]

Re: Addendum:

I'll go ahead and give it a shot tonight. It is also missing the capacitor from off of the coil bracket. Would that have any relation , pro or con to trying your procedure? Thanks for all your help.

Mark