My 1959 courtesy light will not cut on when I turn the light switch all the way counterclockwise. Any know how I can fix it? Can I take the switch apart with out destorying it? What part of the switch and which wires control this? Thanks, Jimmy
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Re: C1 Courtesy Light Operation
In front on the switch is a "rheostat" spring looking thing with two points as you turn the switch it makes contact. Clean the spring and points and it may work , or the spring may be broken. -
Adding on...
to what Roy said, you haven't told us you've verified the courtesy lamp is basically operational to start with! It'd be a pity to pull the HL switch only to find you're fighting a burned out lamp or faulty lamp socket at the courtesy light assy...
Now, as Roy said, the front of the HL switch is the dash lamp dimmer assy. The switch cover simply 'snaps' onto the switch's Bakelite body and the forward section of the cover provides an 'overhang' that the switch rod goes through. The overhang also serves to mount the switch to the dash AND to 'sandwich' (hold) the pot wiper component of the dimmer rheostat in place.
The front ceramic of the switch body contains nichrome wire windings of the dimmer rheostat and the pot wiper 'rides' against these windings to 'pick off' a specific voltage (0-12 VDC) for variable illumination. Adjacent to each end of the rheostat windings, you'll find a discrete contact lug embedded in the ceramic that the wiper arm can contact at the extreme of either directional rotation.
One is OFF (no voltage to the dash lamps) and the opposite discrete contact is the over-ride that forces the courtesy light(s) on. The wiper arm is copper with 'tits' on it to smoothly make contact with either the end point discrete contacts OR brush against the nichrome wire windings to vary dash lamp illumination.
Over the years you can develop oxidation or collect airborne 'crud' on either the pot wiper 'tits' or the contacts and pot wire windings resulting in 'flakey' contact. Also, the 'tits' on the wiper arm will wear due to frictional contact and you can get intermittent contact from straight wear.
If a simple cleanup of the rheostat doesn't solve the problem, you might consider disassemblying the switch (pop the cover) so you can remove the dimmer switch rheostat's wiper arm assy, clean it thoroughly and BEND the arm ever so slightly toward the dimmer windings & front ceramic contacts to compensate for past wear of the 'tits' and regain solid mechanical contact.
BUT, if you DO decide to pop the cover on the switch, you need to go about it slowly and methodically. First timers will pop the cover and a myraid of internal components fly out! Then, what to do...you've lost the switch's assembly recepie; how to put it back together correctly????
So, you take notes on a piece of paper as you go. What is the correct original orientation of the dimmer switch wiper with respect to the front of the switch? Now, slowly pop the switch cover loose from the Bakelite body and HOLD it there loosely touching the body. You want to EASE the cover off the body so you don't disturb the inner components of the switch (contact shuttle, slider contacts, and contact springs). Then, take notes to record the relative placement of these sliding internal components.
While you've got the cover off and have access to its internals, now is an EXCELLENT time to refurbish the interior of the switch. Clean the shuttle contacts, wash out any dried/caked grease, clean the body switch contact etch lines/pads, daub fresh silicone grease on the contacts + between the shuttle's upper surface and the mating groove in the top bottom of the cover. BINGO, you're ready for another 30-years of use! These switches were built like brick (*&%houses....Comment
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Re: Adding on...
My courtesy lights and light switch work fine except for being able to turn them on and off with the light switch. Thanks Jack and Roy for the information. I should be able to find the problem with this information.
JimmyComment
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Re: Adding on... Jack
Your a man of few words ! But that was great ! I copy-ed that for my self.Comment
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Few words...yep, I'm a 'terse' sucka! *NM*
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PROBLEM SOLVED, I HAD NO GROUND
Jack thanks so much for your extra effort via email to help me solve this problem. Jimmy JohnsonComment
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