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1970 model identification

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  • Jeremy Locke

    1970 model identification

    I have a 70 coupe that I bought 25 years ago. The motor etc was stolen a couple of months after I got the car. I was so mad I pushed the car aside and have not touched it till this last weekend.

    To be able to restore the car I would like to identify what model it is exactly. The car was badged (and purchased) as an LT1. I remember that the motor only had 2 bolt mains and flat top pistons. I did not think this was correct at the time.

    How do I find out exactly what model my car is so that I can proceed to restore it properly. TIA.
  • Dick W.
    Former NCRS Director Region IV
    • June 30, 1985
    • 10483

    #2
    Re: 1970 model identification

    Probably the most reliable source would be the tank sticker. The tach, provided that it has not been changed would be another. The LT-1 had a 6,500 rpm redline, the 350-350 had a 6,000 rpm redline, the base engine 5,300. The 454 for that year had a 5,600 rpm redline. Another is that the LT-1 had only one fuel line, the other engines also had a return line.
    Dick Whittington

    Comment

    • Chuck S.
      Expired
      • April 1, 1992
      • 4668

      #3
      Re: 1970 model identification

      Jeremy, how do you know the engine had two bolt mains? Did you drop the pan? Twenty-five years ago was pretty long ago to worry about engine counterfeiting. I supppose someone could have been enamored of the big block hood look, and later couldn't resist the temptation to sell the car as an LT1.

      I believe all 70 Corvette engines, particularly LT1s, would have had four bolt mains...but I could be wrong. I dying of curiosity to know how your insurance company adjusted your claim...if they paid you for a replacement engine, they bent you over goode. Not only that, but if the theives found they had stolen a two bolt main imposter engine, I can only imagine their frustration.

      Many will wail at my insensitivity, but if the original LT1 engine is gone, it puts a whole new light on pouring a lot of restoration money into the car (that's why I said your insurance company bent you over goode). The only way you can hedge such an investment is to find a correctly dated engine, and locate a pad "restorer". (SLAP!!!...Did I just say THAT?!...SLAP!...SLAP! )

      Comment

      • Jeremy Locke

        #4
        Re: 1970 model identification

        Chuck,
        I know 25 years is a long time, but I had the motor out while I converted the car to RHD. I was also going to rebuild the motor and that is why it was in pieces. I remember the two bolt mains and flat top pistons, and also thinking at the time that the car was not a genuine LT1.

        I know that restoring the car is a far off dream now that the original motor has gone but I cannot get overly excited about "purity" etc when it comes to these things now the original motor is gone. Maybe I should say rebuild or refurbish the car. I intend to convert it back to LHD at this time and it may just be easier to put a late model motor in it than chase a "correct" motor over here.

        I am not sure what a pad "restorer" is, but I would hazard a guess that it is just someone to restamp the engine number on another block.

        I remember the insurance company were a pain, but they paid up totally to my claim, but they also cancelled my policy immediately as well. I charged them for an LT1 motor value, so I guess I came out ahead.

        Comment

        • Chuck S.
          Expired
          • April 1, 1992
          • 4668

          #5
          Re: 1970 model identification

          If you bought the car 25 years ago, you probably will come out ahead if the original engine was replaced before you got the car. If the engine had two bolt mains, it probably had already been replaced before you got the car. Otherwise, loss of value was on the order of magnitude of $10K plus the cost to replace the engine with whatever.

          In this case, it's a no-brainer...get one of those ZZ383 crate engines others have recommended. Then you'll have the spirit of an LT1, if not the original pad stamp. BTW, Yes, "pad restorer"; tongue-in-cheek description of a restamper. Since you probably got the car cheap and drove it for 25 years, "pad restoration" is not something I would really recommend. But, I wouldn't do a frame-off resto either, unless I had Jay Leno's money.

          Comment

          • Chuck S.
            Expired
            • April 1, 1992
            • 4668

            #6
            Additional

            Jeremy, I may have sounded like I was discourging you from restoration. What I meant to say was be careful how much you put into the car if you dislike being "upside down" in a car.

            If you find that the car was originally an LT1, it could still do well in judging with a correctly dated engine. I would approach this car as if I was making an excellent driver out of it. A crate engine could provide the fun while you search for a dated engine if you want to pursue that route.

            Comment

            • Jeremy Locke

              #7
              Re: Additional

              Hi Chuck,
              Thanks for the advice. I basically intend to just make a really good driver out of the car. I am not sure if I will take the body off the chassis or not. The front is currently off the car so lifting the rest off would not be a real problem. The only question would be why bother. The car only has 65000 miles on it so there are no real issues with the suspension or mechanicals.

              The crate engine you talk about sounds like a great idea. It would give the car plenty of grunt and be a relatively cheapish option unless I can find a motor with the correct numbers.

              When I first got the car it had minor damage on the front left corner. I got the car cheap because the owner had just purchased it and had not finished paying for it. When he pranged it he was drunk and ran off, the car was towed and the original owner was contacted about his abandoned car. The new owner could not afford to repair the car and finish paying for it so I got it for what was left owing to the original owner ($2000). The damage was minor to me as I ran a body shop at the time, it was only cosmetic with no fram damage. I purchased a brand new front from GM (the top panel and the two side panels and other parts). I still have them and will put them on the car when I fix the motor stuff. I did not want to use a one piece front because I wanted the body original. I guess these 3 piece front panels are hard to get now and will probably be a pain to install.

              Any other suggestions as to what would be good modifications to make the car more "modern" would be appreciated.

              Comment

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