Am getting ready to install my new grill oval on my '56......is there anything I should look out for? Thanks.
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Steve... Couple things...
...I hope it fits the contour of your fiberglass - that would be a major headstart. If you have some gaps, be cautious about over tightening the fasteners to close those gaps as fiberglass cracks can happen or develope. Gaposis at bottom can be somewhat ignored as visually, it is much less important than at the top. Go slow & good luck. Dennis -
Re: C1 Grill Oval
Steve,
Make sure all your studs are good & tight before instalation. Have a round
file ready to provide clearance while it is half in and out. Several sockets
and wrenches are required to reach all the nut locations. Don't forget final clean up & touch up in this area now.Just installed mine.
RobertComment
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Re: Steve... Couple things...
Start at the top , fit it and the sides best you can and tighten the nuts hand tight.
See if the bottom body area cut outs are being covered by the grill , if not then using the three center vertical bars that have the elongated holes that hold the grill center bar, install them but only put the nuts on loose.
If the grill needs to be spread to cover the lower cut outs, using a 2X4 block ( you determine how long ), place one at each side "off" from center to spread or ( widen ) the grill.
It can be widen till you meet the limit of the center three vertical bars that are elongated for that reason. Tighten the bars and grill nuts., then install the grill teeth assy.
The two curved inside retaining plates will help close the body side areas ( hard as hell to get the nuts on) If the grill fits good in that area ( no need to add the plates)
You may also find a need to file the cut out more to aid installing the grill.Comment
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Re: C1 Grill Oval
Steve,
The perfect tool for "adjusting" clearances is a Dremel tool with a carbide bit.
Easy to control and no in and out pressure on the fiberglass.
RickComment
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Are we talking repro or orig? C1 Grill Oval
I am assuming the basics covered here would apply to later C1's as well. Are these moldings repro or original? I'm hearing two schools of thought on original vs. repro grill outline mouldings. Repros apparently don't fit well and some say to use originals if possible. Others say it is prohibitively expensive to replate vs the cost of repros. I'd appreciate hearing more opinions on which way to go.Comment
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Re: Are we talking repro or orig? C1 Grill Oval
Clare,
I heard that as well,so I repaired and replated my original.
Welded and repaired broken pieces and then brought home to fit,
brought back to chrome shop for adjustments and chrome. Cost
less than a repro.
RobertComment
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Re: Are we talking repro or orig? C1 Grill Oval
Robert, What did you weld, the teeth or the cast grill outlines? I am asking because I didn't think pot metal castings could be "welded". My understanding is that repairs to pot metal consist of soldering, plating with copper, grinding, shaping and polishing to prepare the piece for the final chrome plating. In other words, lots of labor and expense to recondition, depending on condition, an original piece vs purchasing a repro.
I'd be interested in any and all experiences of those who have gone either way and their experiences with judging, if any. Approximate cost to recondition grill outlines vs the starting conditions would also be helpful, as would info on platers used. Thank you very much.Comment
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Re: Are we talking repro or orig? C1 Grill Oval
Clare,
My oval was in 3 pieces. It was welded together, soldered and copper
like you said. Then fitted on the car and returned for plating. The cost
was at that time less than A repro. Came out very nice and fit right back in.
RobertComment
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