1966 KNOCKOFF TIRE CHANGE - NCRS Discussion Boards

1966 KNOCKOFF TIRE CHANGE

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  • Marc N.
    Expired
    • August 31, 1998
    • 97

    1966 KNOCKOFF TIRE CHANGE

    knockoff tire change marc nebenzahl are there any pins holding on the spinner on a ko wheel changing to new tires or do i just hit it with the hammer supplied to loosen advise p s restallng the wheel how many hits or how tight do you make the spinner
  • Richard T.
    Very Frequent User
    • February 1, 1979
    • 858

    #2
    Re: 1966 KNOCKOFF TIRE CHANGE

    Before you take a hammer to the spinner that you want to remove first pop off the center cap (emblem) with a small flat blade screw driver. This will expose the top of the wheel adapter and inside edge of the threaded portion of the spinner. It should now be easy to see if there's a locking pin or not. If so remove the pin and using the lead hammer , the spinner. Be sure to strike it in the correct direction as rights and lefts are different. Your owners manual or shop manual explains the removal and installation much better than I can. If I remember it takes 8 sharp blows to really seat the spinner. It should be checked for tightness after a few miles. One trick you can use after your sure the spinner is tight is to put an alignment mark across the edge of the spinner and wheel cone with a china marker.This lets you see that the wheel and spinner are still tight. Rich #2276

    Comment

    • Jack H.
      Extremely Frequent Poster
      • April 1, 1990
      • 9906

      #3
      Add-on

      EXCELLENT advice, here's a bit more....


      (1) Make SURE the prior owner assembled properly (LH/RH spinner adaptors


      on proper side of car). Wouldn't be the first time guy got it


      backwards and made a potential DANGER situation. 'Correct' is so


      natural rotation of wheels in forward direction acts to tighten the


      spinners....


      (2) Do NOT use the lead hammer that GM/Chevy packed in the stowage


      compartment. This was for road emergency use only -- not intended


      as a general purpose shop tool. After a handful of wacks, the lead


      ends deform and you get to the point of the steel center casing


      taking bites out of your spinners!!! Buy a heavy duty lead hammer


      (1/2 price of or better of original road emergency tool) and use it


      for general shop use.


      (3) GORILLA tightness is what was intended! Don't be afraid to work


      up a sweat 'wacking' away and if you've got the reproduction wheels


      with the safety pins, remember that's what they are -- a secondary


      or safety precaution! They're no substitute for solid tight spinner


      installation....


      This means tighten the wheels (covered in owner/shop manual), leave


      center caps and safety pins OFF. Drive the recommended milage then


      re-wack all wheels, drive the second milage segment and re-re-wack.


      Now, you can insert the safety pins and pop the center caps on....

      Comment

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