Re: '66 REAR WHEEL HUB REMOVAL
Rob, I know my analysis is unscientific, don't do anymore ,maybe it will go away!!!! Don
Rob, I know my analysis is unscientific, don't do anymore ,maybe it will go away!!!! Don
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SQUEEK IS GONE
Well, it appears the squeek is gone. When I got the car it had a squeek as I described. I can't remember if I adjusted the e-brake before or after I heard it, but I did so only at the equalizer, with the wheels on the ground. Any way, Today I went back and adjusted the parking brake per the steps in the chassis service manual, wheels off the ground, loosening the equalizer first, then adjusting the pads, etc. The squeek is gone, for good hopefully, and I guess my not following the steps in sequence caused the problem. Thanks for all the suggestions and information...as usual. Too bad I drilled out the original rivets on the rotor for nothing, oh well.Comment
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SQUEEK IS BACK....
Well, the squeek is back, and also the sound of something clunking around in the e-brake assembly. Guess I spoke too soon about the problem being gone. It's definately in the e-brake, somewhere. After I adjusted the parking brake per the manual it went away for about 24hrs. I'll pull the rotor off again. Does anyone know where I can get a cap or similar to put on the end of the brake line that goes to the caliper so the master cylinder doesn't drain while I work on the e-brake?Comment
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Re: SQUEEK IS BACK....
Help Products at the auto parts stores has a blister pack of rubber vacuum caps that can be used for closing off the brake line.Comment
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Re: Hi Rob
Chuck,
Turned out to be the wheel bearing. I removed the trailing arm and had it replaced.Comment
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Re: '66 REAR WHEEL HUB REMOVAL
Joe,
I did replace the e-brake assembly with the spindle on, you're right it wasn't too bad. However, it turned out the squeek I was troubleshooting, which I thought had to be in the e-brake, was the wheel bearing. Thanks...Comment
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Re: '66 REAR WHEEL HUB REMOVAL
Hi Rob:
Well, as I mentioned in an earlier posting, I have heard that bad bearings can present themselves as a squeak. I've not actually heard this kind of squeak myself, though.
Anyway, I hope you are doing both trailing arms at the same time. Chances are that if one side went bad, the other side is not far behind.Comment
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Re: '66 REAR WHEEL HUB REMOVAL
Joe,
Guess I know now what it sounds like when the bearing begins to go bad. Atleast none of the bolts, etc., I had to remove to get the arm off were rusted in place. My car has 81000 orig miles. Should I be expecting the other side to go soon? Is there any lubrication that can be applied with the trailing arm in place to prolong bearing life?Comment
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Re: '66 REAR WHEEL HUB REMOVAL
Hi Rob:
I think I have read about a scheme to lubricate the bearings in place (check the archives, because I think I read it here), but most people consider it to be an inferior method.
The consensus view seems to be that once every "30 years or 100,000 miles, which ever comes first," the spindles should be dissassembled and lubricated, typically with new bearings installed at that time.
Whether you do the work youself or send the trailing arms out, it is a big job. On the other hand, most of us will only have to do this once in our lifetime.
I would recommend that you do both sides now, so you don't get stranded somewhere with the other bearing going bad.
You have many options for how you get the work done. The parts needed to do the job cost very little, maybe $25 per wheel. The work itself only requires moderate mechanical ability plus an arbor press and a dial gauge. On the other hand, you can send your trailing arms to Bairs or Van Steel and have experienced people do the work for a few hundred dollars. If you do send them out, there are various levels of work than can even include new riveted rotors and stainless E-brake parts.Comment
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Re: Good and bad news huh?
At your expense, we now better know what to be zeroing in on when WE hear the dreaded "squeek"
Thanks for keeping us in the loop Rob,
ChuckComment
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