I've ordered the correct heater and radiator hoses from Dr. Rebuild along with a correct set of clamps. I plan not to use the Corbin wire clamps due to the inevitable leak problem and would like to know if the point deduction would be less or the same if I used a period correct (but not application correct) screw type clamp as opposed to using a non-period correct screw type hose clamp?
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Re: C1 judging question.
Jack, I suggest you give the correct corbin clamps a try. Over the years, I've really had very little problem with leaks using them. Best, Dennis -
Re: C1 judging question.
Ok, I trust your judgement. If I run out of water, will you come rescue me?Comment
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Re: C1 judging question.
Dennis is right, if you CLEAN the area that the hoses go on , you should have no problem . I never had on my 55 driver!Comment
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Re: C1 judging question.
Do you or Dennis wish to expand on this subject? I don't trust Corbin clamps either. I've had terrible luck with them too. I've had them break while I was removing them. They're that fragile.
Why does the clamp care if the nipple is clean?Comment
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Re: C1 judging question.
How do I say this with out seeming crude? The corbin clamp pressure area is small and ROUND .
I would think a clean area is better then a area having bumps and crud on it where pressure is applied is better???????? But that's me!
Also be sure it's straight and not cocked on the hoseComment
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Quality difference between Corbin clamps
Apparently, there is a quality difference between Corbin clamps not visable to the eye. I've been told Dr. Rebuild has the correct quality and I plan to order from him, even though I have a set from another vendor, as yet unused.
Anyone know where the name Corbin came from? Brand name supplier, or original design inventor? Just curious.Comment
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PS: Why did/do the OEM's use Corbin clamps?
Just a guess but seems like a quicker and cheaper way to fasten while on an assembly line?Comment
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Re: C1 judging question.
I always fill the cooling system with straight water first, in case of initial leaks. I don't want to be looking at anti-freeze on the interior carpet under the heater connections. If the heater "L" copper pipe does not have sealing ridges on it, I add them with solder. Additionally, on all the hose fittings I try to snug the corbin clamp right up to the sealing ridge. I feel this helps. When first installing the clamp, use your special handy dandy corbin clamp pliers and spread the clamp, protecting your eyes and body. Sometimes, beceause they are spring steel, they will break. Better to have them do it then rather than during installation. Also, I don't re-use them too many times, in case they might lose some of their holding power. If re-installing, put them back exactly as they came off. The hose will tell you what that was. Good luck, DennisComment
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Re: C1 judging question.
Dennis,
Good idea with the solder. I'm just getting ready to install that piece and I couldn't imagine what was gonna keep it from leaking.
LPComment
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Re: C1 judging question.
Properly-manufactured Corbin clamps (like the Doc has) are extremely effective, and won't cause leaks if properly installed (at least I've never had one leak, on many different cars). They're actually more effective than tower clamps or worm clamps, as they continue to exert constant pressure around their full circumference as the hose material gradually compresses with age and the effective clamping diameter of the hose gets smaller. If you'll look at any new car, you'll see the same type of spring clamp on the radiator and heater hoses, except they're a flat band instead of round, and they don't leak. All bets are off if the surface of the outlet is corroded, heavily pitted, or distorted.Comment
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Re: C1 judging question.
Dennis
what do you mean placing the clamp next to the(cooling ridge) do you mean placing the clamp as close right next to radiator opening or out far from the opening thanks
paulComment
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Re: C1 judging question.
As an example, most radiators have a raised section on both the inlet and outlet pipes. It is a slightly larger diameter, maybe a sixteenth of an inch. I believe it is designed to locate an indent into the hose which would improve sealing at that one area. I feel if I locate the clamp right "inside" and next to that ridge, it might help the sealing. It has worked that way for me in a couple of instances, for sure. Can't hurt. Hope I've explained this OK - Many C1 guys have trouble doing a lot of things and I be one of 'em fo' sure.Comment
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Re: C1 judging question.
I would agree on the Corbin clamps. If you have the copper elbow without the bead on it, then pitch it and buy a correct one from Paragon or another vendor that sells a correct one. A lot of vendors just sell a 1/2" copper street L which has no bead. This is the same fitting you can buy at Home Depot for $0.50 and they charge you several dollars for the same thing! The Corbin clamps that DR Rebuild sells are superior to the clamps sold by a lot of vendors. The size of the wire is larger and they hold tension better. A lot of the small diameter wire ones will stretch out as soon as you expand them to install them. If you put one of the Dr.'s clamps on right adjacent to the bead, it will not leak.
Regards, John McGrawComment
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Re: C1 judging question.
Count me in as a supporter of Corbin clamps--over 30 years, 65 cars, 75,000 miles, never a problem--but cleanliness is next to Godliness. (that's a preacher's line, right?)
Rev. Mike ErnstComment
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