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Ball joints....

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  • Don Becker #41636

    Ball joints....

    ...not too long ago I picked up a bunch of tools and decided to have a go at rebuilding the front end on my C3 myself.

    I'm attempting to remove the ball joints/pop them if you will, and I'm having trouble as I haven't done it before.

    Car is on 4 jackstands.

    Cotter pin is out, nut backed off, just left on a little bit.

    I tried with the fork, hammering it in, and then pulling up and down, to no avail.

    Could the picklefork possibly be hitting the bottom lip of the upper a-arm, preventing it from really getting leverage?

    Trying to learn from others mistakes, so any help or tips would be greatly appreciated...
  • Scott Marzahl

    #2
    Re: Ball joints....

    Pickle forks come in different sizes, maybe you are using one that has the opening too wide.

    Comment

    • Chuck R.
      Expired
      • April 30, 1999
      • 1434

      #3
      Re: Ball joints....

      First off Don have you taken the tension off the spring? You have a potentially explosive situation brewing if you suddenly release all that latent energy by separating especially the upper ball joint from the spindle.

      With that said, if you DO have the spring under control and safely compressed, all it will take is to place a heavy mallet or heavy metal backer on one side of the spindle where the ball joint stud passes through and then strike the opposite side with another heavy peen type hammer.

      It shouldn't take many blows before the spindle releases it's hold on the ball joint stud.

      I can't say it enough, be extreemly leery of that spring OK? It can easily kill someone who isn't familiar with this type of repair.

      Chuck

      Comment

      • Donald T.
        Expired
        • September 30, 2002
        • 1319

        #4
        Re: Ball joints....

        I use a safety chain through and around the coil spring. I wouldn't bet my life on a 30 year old castle nut. A year or two ago I had one break loose unexpectedly before I even had the pickle fork in hand - BANG! Castle nut held, safety chain was in place - my shorts did not fare as well.

        BTW. Air hammer with a pickle fork attachment will make short work of it.

        Comment

        • Chuck R.
          Expired
          • April 30, 1999
          • 1434

          #5
          Re: Happens quick

          filling the shorts too

          Comment

          • Roy B.
            Expired
            • February 1, 1975
            • 7044

            #6
            Re: Ball joints....

            Please leave the ball joint NUT ON, just back it off 1/8 till you brake the connection.
            That way you wont eat the spring when it comes loose , then remove the nut and lower the A-arm.

            Comment

            • Jeffrey S.
              Extremely Frequent Poster
              • May 31, 1988
              • 1882

              #7
              Re: Happens quick

              Don:
              As Chuck said you MUST support the lower a-arm when releasing the upper arm. I put a hydraulic jack under the lower arm and raise it up just until the a-arm moves up. then I know that the spring is held up. I also use 2 pickle forks, 1 on top of the other to release the ball joint from the steering knuckle. Be patient. I have hammered them in and waited a few minures and all of a sudden there is a "pop" and it releases. Hope this helps.
              Jeff

              Comment

              • Duke W.
                Beyond Control Poster
                • January 1, 1993
                • 15657

                #8
                Re: Ball joints....

                Amen, bro! PLACE THE FRONT JACKSTANDS UNDER THE OUTBOARD EDGE OF THE CONTROL ARM SPRING POCKETS SO THE WEIGHT OF THE CAR KEEPS THE SPRINGS COMPRESSED.

                If you give the bottom of the knuckle, next to the ball joint stud, two or three good (and I mean GOOD!) wacks with a BFH - at least a two pound one-handed sledge - the stud should break loose, then remove the stud nut and you can lift the knuckle up and out of the way so you can chisle off the ball joint rivets. If they were already replaced they will have bolts instead of rivets, which will make the job easier.

                Duke

                Comment

                • Harold #43147

                  #9
                  Ball Joint

                  You can remove the spring by unbolting the rear lower control arm with a floor jack and a fixture for you jack you can see it done in the service manuel. I have a couple of fixtures I bought for different cars and some I fabed up. Its the easiest way to remove and install springs because you are pushing the spring straight up its on a angle if you do it from the front thats the way they did it at the factory. I have a OTC upper control arm bushing press I have had and used for 30 Yrs it was exspensive back in the Day a friend of mine bought one from JC Whitney for about $90.00 and I used it with him and it works just as good as the OTC which is over $300.00 if your doing the hole front end it is worth it. Pickel Fork & 3Lbs Sledge is Magic Air Hammer with Fork is the best if you have it.

                  Comment

                  • Terry M.
                    Beyond Control Poster
                    • September 30, 1980
                    • 15595

                    #10
                    Re: Ball joints....

                    If you leave the shock absorber installed the spring will not come loose. There is a Kent Moore ball stud remover tool that presses on the top of the stud (leave the nut on, but loose). Not inexpensive (just like all KM tools), but it leaves no hammer marks on the spindle, and no damaged BJ boots. The tool is like a fine thread bolt with a sleeve instead of a nut. I suspect one could fab up the same thing with a good size fine thread bolt, a nut and a sleeve.
                    Terry

                    Comment

                    • Timothy B.
                      Extremely Frequent Poster
                      • April 30, 1983
                      • 5183

                      #11
                      Re: Ball joints....

                      Don,

                      If you go to Pep Boys they will loan you the correct tools for free. There is also a tool for removing the tie rod ends from the steering arm and it does not damage the rubber boots like a pickle fork, this way you don't have to beat on anything with a hammer. I agree with others about leaving the bolt started on the stud until you break the ball joint loose.

                      Comment

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