Midyear Power Steering Cylinder rebuild

[Gary C.]

Two questions re the power steering cylinder on my 63.

I cannot remove the ball stud from the relay rod. Tried some moderate wacks on the stud, but did not want to risk bending the rod. Also tried to rig up something using my balancer puller to push the stud out but that was not successful either. Anyone have any helpful hints?

Also, anyone have any suggestions for removing the cylinder shaft seal?

Thanks

Gary

[Dick W.]

Re: Midyear Power Steering Cylinder rebuild

Gary,most tool jobbers and stores sell a tie rod end removing tool. Looks like a tuning fork. Some parts stores rent such tools.

[Gary C.]

Re: Midyear Power Steering Cylinder rebuild

Thanks for the response. I have some tie rod and ball joint seperator tools and may yet try one here, but I was trying to get it off with the original rubber boot intact. I do not see any way to use the "pickle fork" tool without sacrificing the rubber boot.

[Dick W.]

Re: Midyear Power Steering Cylinder rebuild

You MIGHT be able to remove it by using a thick nut screwed on the threads leaving the stud threads down in the nut a turn or two. Take a two jaw puller with a flat tip on it. Clamp the puller on the relay rod. Tighten the puller as much as possible. Take a hammer, preferrably at least a two pound, and hit the top of the screw on the puller HARD. This should pop it loose. Sometimes you can hit the side of the socket in the relay rod had and it will pop. If this does not work I guess you will have to resort to the separator. DO NOT USE HEAT! The rod is heat treated and you can and will weaken it if you attempt to use heat to remove the cylinder.

If you do damage the boot I belive that you will find an assortment on the HELP! rack at most parts stores.

[Eugene B.]

Re: Midyear Power Steering Cylinder rebuild

Gary,
The hammer blow that seems to work is one that is delivered to the side of the relay rod, perpendicular to the stud.

Back up the relay rod with a second hammer or place it on an anvil, and strike the opposite side of the relay rod with a good hammer blow. The blow creates sufficient vibration to separate the stud from the rod.

Sorry, but I can't help with the cylinder shaft seal. When my power cylinder was rebuilt, they had to cut it at the mounting end, replace the rod and internal parts, and reweld the body. If the polished rod has a wear mark around it (in the spot where the wheels are straight ahead), it will probably have to be replaced.

Good luck on your '63.

Regards,
Gene