Hi, I was wondering if anyone has done a complete tear-down and build-up for their trailing arm assys using shop made tools. I would like to do these myself for several reasons but this will be a totaly new adventure for me. I guess what I'm asking is, do you REALLY need all the special tools that they call out for? I know that all the "special tools required" to O/H a Turbo 400 can be easily made in a few hours...I did just that years ago and they still work just fine...not too pretty though. Could I be so lucky with my trailing arms or am I out of luck? Thanks
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Re: 69 Trailing Arm DIY Rebuild??
I made a home made version of the commercial wheel bearing puller a few years back. Works just fine. You do need a dial indicator to check WB free play. The published spec is .001-.008". Most will agree that anything over .003" or so is too much, with .001 being prefered. The bearing setup tool will reduce the number of trial and error assemblies to get an acceptable spec. -
Re: 69 Trailing Arm DIY Rebuild??
Thanks Ed, thats what I was hoping to hear. Would you be able to send me some specs and maybe a picture or two of your puller or is it a no brainer? I haven't actually seen these tools or even seen good close pics of any so any hints would be appreciated. Thanks again.Comment
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Re: 69 Trailing Arm DIY Rebuild??
If you will look at the factory manual for your year car, you will see a "special tools" section, complete with pictures. Also, several of the vendor catalogs have nice pics of the pullers. Basically the wb puller is a trapezoidal plate with provision to attach to the shock mount on the bottom and the two caliper mount holes at the top (attaches with threaded rod). Then there is a threaded rod (pusher) in the center to line up with the spindle. Mine is made from 1-1/8" boiler plate, which is what I happened to have on hand at the time. Half or five-eigths inch plate should be plenty, though 3/8" might be a little too flimsy. I used a long square head set screw for the pusher, and welded a nut to the back of the plate for threads. If you can't find anything, I'll try to dig mine out and send a picture.Comment
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Re: 69 Trailing Arm DIY Rebuild??
Ed,
the set up tool is really helpfull so that you can try different shims to get the end play correct without having to press the assy together and apart each time. You can make one by turning down the bearing areas on an old axel that has damaged bearing areas fro a spun bearing. Can find at swap meets sometimes. If you cannot find one that is one tool that I would spend the money on.
BillComment
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end play???
William,
I respectfully disagree with the statement that a spindle tool gives you the correct end play.
There are tolerances on the spindles and on the bearings when they are manufactured. Tapered bearings under interferance fit are supposed to lose end play. Both of my spindles were assembled and taken apart several times under load after testing on a spindle tool first, both lost end play.
If you set up on a spindle tool to .001 as you mentioned and have bearings on the low side of the manufactured tolerance it is possible that you could be running in preload once assembled. True end play is with the exact bearings you are using on each spindle.
The first post on making a tool or tools to press the spindle out, mine is from 1" plate with a 1 1/4" threaded rod, fine thread then turned so it has .005 or so taken off the thread, this made a slightly loose fit. I turned a knocker tool to match the end of the threaded rod, the knocker tool gives good protection and more contact on the end of the spindle when pushing it out.
I had heard from one or two people at Carlisle about bending or braking the brake caliper bracket on really stubborn spindles. By putting the play into the threaded rod you can put load on the spindle then just tap it, stuff that is under load while it is tapped moves much easier. Just load it again then tap it and continue a few more times then just turn it out. It worked very well.
WarrenComment
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Re: end play???
I just check the end play with a dial indicator after assembly, if necessary do the math to check shims, and reassemble again. Always check with dial indicator after assy, regardless of set up tool or not.
You sure can break a caliper bracket on a stubborn bearing. Been there, done that. Used "blue wrench" to remove that bearing.Comment
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Re: end play???
Warren I have the Kent-Moore tools to remove the spindle and bearings. Add another to the list that has bent a brake caliper bracket. Did not know it was done untill I tried to install the brake caliper.Comment
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Re: 69 Trailing Arm DIY Rebuild??
Hi Greg, I was able to setup the spindles on my trailing arms with a trashed spindle that I turned down until I had just a slightly snug slip fit.
I was able to achieve .001 with no issues.
I made a spindle knocker out of a one ton truck lug wrench that I welded one of the old spindle nuts onto. I then cut the lug wrench handle down so I had just about 2" of shaft. About a half dozen solid wacks and the spindles popped free. I did this with the spindle support still bolted up to the trailing arm and the e-brake components removed.
I used flat washers on the shaft to ensure that the nut pulled up tight so I didn't have to worry about ruining threads. I noticed though that the nut kept wanting to loosen up after each strike, so I was constantly making sure that my home made knocker was snugged up every time.
All in all, I had little more than sweat equity into the tools I created.
ChuckComment
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Re: 69 Trailing Arm DIY Rebuild??
Thanks guys for all of this info. This was what I was looking for but since trailing arms are "new territory" to me I wasn't sure if these special tools had to be bought or not. Now I'll just have to find the procedure and specs and I'll be set. Thanks again and Merry Christmas.Comment
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